Saturday, December 30, 2006

A Farewell to Diptyque’s Roses Candle in Pink Glass

The year is almost over. For those lucky souls who live in the moment, or who look ahead with hope and excitement, this time of year can be joyous. I’m the sort who glances back at the about-to-end year, who thinks of the good things the year brought and the things it took away. For me, New Year’s Day is always a pensive time, but in my last post of 2006, I’d like to keep things light, or should I say pink, and eulogize a frivolous thing: a candle.

In a cursory, fifth-grade art class, my teacher asked me, out of the blue, that dull question: "Kevin, what’s your favorite color?" Always wanting to be precise, I felt time quickly pass as my mind hunted for the right answer. Was it tangerine orange? Grass green? Or the blue-purple of my nicest wool sweater? “What’s that blue called?” I thought, "Gentian?" Finally, my eyes rested on my friend Meredith’s knit cap. It was pink and I liked pink, and pink was pink, so I said, "Pink". No one laughed, not even the boys; but the teacher said: "Pink is for girls". I didn’t flinch. I looked at the teacher and said to her, with all the sang-froid I could muster at age ten, "Orange then".

The teacher didn’t know me very well, didn’t realize telling me that someone or something was "off-limits" or "crass" or "too fancy" or "sinful" or "unwearable", or was in any way distasteful or risqué, was to send me running in that person’s or object’s or activity’s direction. My 'study' of and eventual regard for pink was born out of being told it was Reserved — for girls.

Today, I am a big pink fan. I love walls and wood furniture painted with soft, dusty “Paris Pink.” I love the vibrant flamingo pinks of Maharajah’s silks and pink sapphires. I love the softest pink imaginable: the delicate winter-pink skins of Chinese red birch trees. Who can resist Fra Angelico’s enchanting pinks? (I know — many of the pinks one sees in Renaissance paintings are, in fact, faded reds, but doesn’t that attest to the power of pink to endure?)

I love to eat and drink pink: strawberry ice cream, watermelon, rose jelly, rosés, infused Russian vodkas, tinted pink with fresh raspberries or currants.

In my garden pink flowers reign: dahlias, daphnes, zinnias, cosmos, and, of course, clove-scented "pinks". Shirley and Iceland poppies, in blushing conch-shell pinks and salmon shades, bloom in profusion in early summer. Sarah Bernhardt peonies are a demure pink but their swollen heads take deep bows as they offer their overwhelming scent, best smelled from a respectful distance (a strange brew of roses, singed feathers, and wood ash). Bending backwards, seeking refuge under my porch roof, the fragrant Bourbon rose Madame Ernst Calvat blooms from spring thru winter, proving pink is no sissy. Audacious Cleopatra camellias, smelling strongly of pollen, honey and jasmine, flaunt their delicate blossoms in late November or early December, daring autumn’s chill and rain to interfere with their show.

English Bulldogs have cool, rose-petal-soft pink bellies that are made to be rubbed. Pink cheeks are cute. And pink noses? When I see one on an orange cat with green eyes I’m delighted.

I raise a pinky to pink and to all who appreciate it.

Friday, December 29, 2006

Lulu Guinness Fairytales, Fresh Sugar Lychee

Lulu Guinness has launched a new limited edition perfume, Fairytales, "inspired by mystical gardens and magical places".

The fragrance notes feature pink grapefruit, crème de cassis, raspberry, magnolia, Madiera jasmine, strawberry leaf, cocoa powder, caramelized sugar and exotic spice accord.

Fairytales is $58 for 100 ml of Eau de Toilette, and is available now at sephora.

Also at Sephora, Fresh has launched Sugar Lychee, a new entry in the Sugar range which includes Fresh Sugar, Fresh Sugar Lemon, and Fresh Sugar Blossom. The fragrance contains notes of grapefruit, Italian lemon, lime blossom, lychee, mango flower, freesia, sandalwood, tonka bean amd amber. Sugar Lychee is $75 for 100 ml of Eau de Parfum.

Estee Lauder Beautiful Love

Estee Lauder will launch Beautiful Love in January. Beautiful Love is a variation on the classic Estee Lauder fragrance Beautiful, which was introduced in 1985 with advertisements featuring a bride in white and the tag line "This is your moment to be beautiful".
While Beautiful Love is inspired by the voluptuous, heady florals in the original Beautiful, it is infused with a rich, velvety, deeper tonality, juxtaposed with a modern clarity. Beautiful Love uses less intense green notes and has a greater emphasis on the classic's white floral elements, though in a more understated way. As a result, the dry down is creamier and more sensuous.
The perfume notes include pomelo zest, cantaloupe, mango mist, white freesia, magnolia, marigold, wet ivy leaves, pink pepper, Tahitian tiare, tuberose, jasmin absolute, jasmin sambac, rose, osmanthus, carnation, black violet, white orris, vetiver, cashmeran, heliotrope, tonka bean, whipped cream accord, sandalwood, white moss and patchouli.

Beautiful Love will be available in 3 sizes of Eau de Parfum: 30 ml, 75 ml, and 100 ml. (via press release from Estee Lauder)

Wednesday, December 27, 2006

Home fragrance report: Claus Porto Alface Scented Candle

“While traveling the Silk Road between Asia and the Mediterranean, explorers ate almonds to maintain health. Thought to promote fertility, the Romans showered the bride and groom after a wedding with almonds.” (from the Claus Porto description of the Alface candle)
The almond tree (prunus dulcis) and its blossoms and fruit have had symbolic meaning for cultures in Asia (the tree’s native habitat), the Middle East and Europe. The long-lived tree represents endurance and the wish for a long life. The abundant, fragrant almond blossoms of late winter convey the promise of coming spring and proclaim the ability of the earth to renew itself. In China, white almond blossoms symbolize feminine beauty.

The almond fruit has played a part in wedding ceremonies for thousands of years: giving almonds at wedding celebrations reminds the bride and groom and their guests that marriage (and life) can be sweet and tinged with bitterness. In the U.S. and Europe, candied almonds are popular wedding favors — three almonds represent the groom, the bride, and their child-to-be, and a tiny bonbonnière of five almonds expresses the newly married couple’s wish for happiness, health, wealth, a long life and many children.

In India, almonds are brain food (eat them and get smarter).

Claus Porto's Alface almond oil fragranced candle is glorious — and more floral than foody. In addition to sweet almond essence (a fresh, milky almond aroma), you will detect powdery orange blossoms and tangy honey. If you have ever sipped almond syrup, made with sweet almond emulsion mixed with orange flower water and sugar, you’ve already had a "taste" of Alface’s perfume.

The lavishly scented Alface candle is housed in a heavy, clear glass jar that has been etched with an Art Deco design. The candle is housed in a substantial cardboard box (with a magnetized lid!) that is decorated with a vibrant green, yellow and white design from the Claus Porto archives. An interesting note: "alface" means "lettuce" in Portuguese. Though there is no "lettuce" scent in the Alface candle, the packaging design does bring to mind both a stylized field of lettuce plants, and the leafy layers of a head of lettuce, viewed from above. (Please comment if you know any other “alface”/lettuce/almond connections.)

The 10.5 oz. Alface candle is made of soy-blend wax and burns for approximately 70 hours. The burn is clean and even, and the candle’s throw is exceptional. Price: $32. Claus Porto/Lafco New York offers 14 other fragrances in its wonderfully scented, beautifully packaged and reasonably priced candle range.

Sunday, December 3, 2006

How to get perfume samples

By definition, I should think, the true perfumista wants to try everything, or at least, very nearly everything. If you're lucky (much luckier than I) you can afford to just buy all the latest perfumes unsniffed, but the rest of us have to make do with samples. Here are a few tips for getting your hands on samples of the latest fragrances:

Beg at brick 'n mortar stores
For many fragrances, especially new mainstream releases, about the only way to get a sample is to go to a store in-person and ask for one. Nordstrom and Sephora top my list of the absolute best foraging grounds: both stores will happily give you a carded sample (i.e., a sample from the manufacturer, usually attached to a card or folded enclosure) if they have one; if they don't, they will happily decant a sample for you. Nordstrom uses little glass vials; Sephora uses plastic atomizers. Being given a sample on demand makes me inordinately happy; if I was the sort of person willing to pay full price for a bottle of fragrance, I would do all my perfume-buying at Nordstrom and Sephora. As I am most emphatically not the sort of person willing to pay full price for perfume when I don't have to, I try to buy all my other makeup and beauty things at those stores.

Unfortunately, the "free samples on demand" policy is pretty much limited to those two stores; nobody else comes even close to that level of customer service. Bloomingdales and Neiman Marcus (at least, my local stores) will usually give a carded sample if they have one, but of course, they don’t always have them. I have never managed to cadge a single carded sample out of Macy's or Lord & Taylor.

If you have no shame (and why have shame?) you can carry empty glass vials with you and ask if the store will allow you to make your own sample. This is rather hit or miss, but in general, I find the higher-end stores are much more likely to give permission than the lower-end stores. Bergdorf Goodman has allowed me to make samples any number of times, so have Saks, Neiman Marcus, Barneys, Takashimaya and Bloomingdales. Once, and once only, I was given permission to make samples at my local Macy's, and within minutes a manager materialized from out of nowhere and very nearly threw my friend and I out of the store. Thanks, Macy’s!

Smaller stores, again, are hit or miss. The Coach boutique I visited last month was passing out samples of their new fragrance to anyone who asked. Hermès is generally very nice about samples when they have them, especially at the flagship store in New York. L’Occitane gives them out when they have them, but they almost never do have them.

Beg or buy directly from the manufacturer
Another option, if the company has a website, is to write and ask if they will send you a sample. Some will, some won’t, but it is always worth a try. Some of the larger companies post free sample offers online right around the time a fragrance is launched. Unfortunately, they often take 4-6 weeks to mail them, and when they do, what you get is frequently one of those little liquid “bubbles” on a card or a pre-moistened towelette. I find either very nearly as useless as a magazine scent strip.

Another tip: if you find a website specifically devoted to an upcoming fragrance release, take the time to enter your name and address if there is a place to do so. When Hermès launched Terre d’Hermès, their teaser website allowed you to enter a name and address (and it was not at all clear what for), if you did, you received a 10 ml miniature bottle of the fragrance after it was released.

Some of the niche lines sell samples of their products online.
A no doubt far-from-complete list: Abinoam, Aftelier, Amouage, Antonia's Flowers, Anya's Garden, Apothia, AromaM, Art of Perfumery, Ava Luxe, Ayala Moriel, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, CB I Hate Perfume, Creative Scentualization, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Eadward, Ebba, Fresh Scents by Terri, Ineke, Lagniappe Oaks, La Via del Profumo, Les Nez, Liz Zorn, Miller Harris, Miriam Mirani (Aqaba), Ormonde Jayne, Penhaligons, Rich Hippie, Sonoma Scent Studio, Strange Invisible Perfumes, Tauer Perfumes.

Buy samples from online boutiques
There are very few online stores selling samples of mainstream scents, but check Beauty Encounter and Parfums Raffy (Raffy also carries some niche brands). Both of these stores sell carded samples only.

If it’s niche fragrances you’re after, you’re in luck – there are lots of great online boutiques with sample programs: try Aedes (7 samples for $15), Beauty Cafe (5 samples for $5, but only with an order), Beautyhabit (6 samples for $11), First-in-Fragrance (Germany, individually priced), La Crème Beauty (8 samples for $15), Les Senteurs (London, 6 samples for £15), Luckyscent (samples individually priced). All of these stores will send carded samples when they have them in stock, when they don’t, they’ll send you a decanted sample vial if they can. Most of these stores ask that you provide one or two alternates in case they don't have all of the fragrances you're looking for.

Buy them on ebay
There are any number of ebay sellers and stores devoted to selling decants and samples of fragrances, both niche and mainstream. You won't find everything on ebay, but you'll find a pretty decent selection ranging from the latest celebrity launches to the hard-to-find exclusives from Serge Lutens. If they don't have the fragrance you want, try entering a "Favorite Search" so that ebay will send you an email when your item comes up for sale.

I have had very good luck on ebay, but I am sure some stores/sellers are better than others. Checking a seller’s feedback is one obvious way to make sure you’re dealing with someone reputable; another is to post a query on one of the fragrance forums.

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

How to apply perfume

It shouldn’t take rocket science to figure out how to put on perfume. You just spritz it on your wrists, rub them on each other and behind your ears, and you’re good to go, right? Maybe. But since you’ve spent almost a hundred dollars for that fabulous bottle of Guerlain Chamade or Chanel Eau Première, you may as well do a little research on how to wear it well.

Cloud of scent or targeted sprays? Some people spray a mist of perfume in the air and then walk through it. They say that the scent then disperses evenly over their bodies. (I first saw this technique used by Holly Hunter’s character in the movie Broadcast News.) When I’ve tried it, I’ve never felt satisfied by the concentration of the scent. Plus, if you walk through the cloud of scent clothed, not much perfume lands on skin where it can warm and develop.

I like targeting sprays of perfume. I mostly wear dresses and skirts, so I tend to spray once behind each knee. The scent then warms and rises so that it leaves a quiet trail. If the fragrance is subtle, or if I’m especially in love with it, I’ll spray once between my breasts, too, so that the scent is closer to my nose.

I do scent my wrists sometimes so that I can lift my wrist to my nose and get to know a perfume better. Another place I like to dab scent if I’m testing it is on the fleshy part of the back of my hand, between my thumb and index finger.

Spray clothing or not? “Of course not!” you might say to yourself, “Everyone knows perfume on fabric is a bad idea.” It’s true that perfume can stain some fabrics and probably dries out hair. I’ve also heard that perfume can deaden rhinestones, taking the sparkle right out of them. On the other hand, Chanel said that one of the benefits of a signature scent is that you can always identify your own coat. (This is useless advice for people like me who have a few dozen signature scents. Get a more distinctive coat, I say.)

Caron sprays its customer’s scarves so they can live with a perfume before deciding to buy it. Diaghilev sprayed his curtains with Guerlain Mitsouko. I spray my sheets with scent and haven’t stained them yet. Why not scent your scarf or woolen gloves if you feel like it?

Rub or let dry? Perfume folk wisdom says not to rub your wrists together when you apply perfume because you’ll crush its molecules. I’m not a physicist and I don’t know what it takes to crush a molecule (although I hear that splitting atoms takes special equipment and sometimes a treaty). I always let my perfume dry without rubbing my wrists together because I like how it smells when it’s sprayed rather than dabbed, and to me rubbing it on skin is too much like dabbing it.

What about splash bottles? Bottles of extrait most often come in splash bottles — that is, bottles without a sprayer. Many Eaux de Toilette do, too. As I said, I like how perfume smells when it’s sprayed, so I like to decant Eau de Toilette into an atomizer. Sprayed extrait can be wonderful, too — I fell head over heels for Guerlain Vol de Nuit and Chamade when I smelled the parfum after it was sprayed on my skin. But for a quarter-ounce bottle of precious extrait, a cheap atomizer feels wrong. So I dab it.

The problem with dabbing is that if you dab by uncapping the bottle and turning it directly on your skin or your finger, when you right the bottle you’ve swished oil and even flakes of skin into the scent. You can end up spoiling the fragrance before its time. One solution is to dip a clean Q-tip into the scent and use that to dab perfume. I tried this method for a while, but I felt like the Q-tip held too much of the valuable extrait even when I’d squeezed it dry. Now I turn the bottle upside down to moisten the stopper, dab perfume on my skin with the stopper, then wipe the stopper on a handy cloth (usually my blouse or the skirt of my dress).

When to reapply? As much as I love a perfume, I’m happy when it fades because I can apply a different perfume. But if you want to boost your scent, for the truest fragrance make sure that the first application has disappeared from your skin. Perfume won’t show its true character if it is layered — even if it’s layered over itself. A scent is designed to unfurl on naked skin from its topnotes through the final whisper of its drydown. If you interrupt and complicate this progress by reapplying scent, you won’t smell the full story of the perfume.

In the end, though the best advice I’ve heard about applying perfume was to “Be extravagant with perfume and with love.” I wish I could remember who wrote it.

Monday, November 27, 2006

Frequently asked questions about perfume

Why do perfumes smell different on different people?
Your own body chemistry affects how differerent notes react on your skin. Anything that affects the "natural" smell of your skin, such as stress, hormonal changes, your current diet or medications, might change how a perfume smells on you. For a more detailed explanation, see here.

How can I make my perfume last longer on my skin?
All other things being equal, perfumes evaporate more rapidly from dry skin, so the best way to make fragrance last longer is to use a relatively heavy body lotion or cream. Some people like to buy the "matching" cream for their fragrance, but you can also use an unscented cream like Cetaphil, or try petroleum jelly or jojoba oil. You might also try a light mist to your hair, which is said to hold scent longer than skin.

What are Eau De Toilette, Eau De Parfum, etc?
These terms refer to the strength of the fragrance, or more specifically, to how much high grade alcohol and/or water has been added to the fragrance oils. Parfum (generally the most concentrated form you can buy) has 15-25% perfume oil dissolved in alcohol. Any mixture with a lower proportion of oil to alcohol is an eau (water).

Eau Fraiche (Usually 3% or less perfume oil)
Eau de cologne (2 - 5% perfume oil)
Eau de Toilette (4 - 10% perfume oil)
Eau de parfum (8 - 15% perfume oil)
Soie de Parfum (15 - 18% perfume oil)
PARFUM or Perfume (15 - 25% -- also sometimes referred to as extract or extrait)
Perfume oil (15-30% perfume oil in an oil rather than alcohol base)

You may also see the term Parfum de Toilette. Most companies use this term to describe a concentration that is either the same as Eau De Parfum, or between Eau De Parfum and Parfum. Other companies use the term to describe an Eau De Toilette concentration.

To further confuse matters, some companies use different notes, or different proportions of notes, in the different forms of fragrance they offer. In addition, some companies reserve costly fragrance oils for their parfum, and use synthetic substitutes in lighter concentrations.

What are top, middle, and base notes?
Top notes provide the first scent impression of a fragrance once it has been applied to the skin. They are usually lighter, more volatile aromas that evaporate readily. Their scent usually lingers for between 5 and 30 minutes. Middle notes, sometimes referred to as “heart notes”, make up the body of the blend. They may be evident from the start, but will usually take 10-30 minutes to fully develop on the skin. They are the notes that classify the fragrance family (floral, oriental, chypre, etc, see below). Base Notes are those with the greatest molecular weight. They last the longest, and are also important as fixatives, that is, they help slow down the evaporation rates of the lighter notes, giving the fragrance holding power. Common base notes include oakmoss, patchouli, woods, musk and vanilla.

A fragrance which does not have traditional top, middle and base notes is usually described as "linear".

What are the "fragrance families"?
These are "aroma groupings" of related scents. There is more than one classification system in use, but many list 7 major families: Greens, Florals, Aldehydics, Chypre, Oriental, Fougère & Tobacco/Leather. Some listings of the major fragrance families can be found at:

Fragrance Families (pdf at Leffingwell)
Parfums Raffy Fragrance Guide
Fragrances of the World 2000 (at Art et Parfum)

How long can I keep my perfume before it "turns"?
Some industry experts say that perfume should be replaced every year, but properly stored, perfumes should last much longer. Most perfumes will keep several years, some will keep many more years than that.

To store perfume properly, keep it away from heat and light. A dark closet or a covered box is best. Also avoid direct exposure to air. Splash bottles, which expose the fragrance to air every time they are opened, are problematic. Consider decanting into a smaller atomizer for regular use. If you apply perfume directly from a bottle stopper, wipe the stopper with a clean, lint free cloth before replacing it in the bottle.

How many milliliters are in an ounce?
Here is a quick conversion chart:

100 ml = 3.3 or 3.4 oz
50 ml = 1.7 oz
30 ml = 1 oz
15 ml = 1/2 oz
10 ml = 1/3 oz
7.5 ml = 1/4 oz
5 ml = 1/6 oz
3.7 ml = 1/8 oz = 1 dram

Note that all of these are approximate; strictly speaking, 1/2 oz is 14.787 ml.

A standard perfume sample is in a 1/32 oz (1 ml) vial. You can see a picture showing sizes of standard perfume bottles in the article on decanting (scroll down).

What is the difference between essential oil and perfume oil?
Essential oils are volatile, fragrant liquids extracted from plant leaves, bark, wood, stems, flowers, seeds, buds, roots, resins and petals, usually through steam distillation. In other words, they are raw materials that can be used to create perfumes. They are highly concentrated and apart from a few exceptions, should not be used directly on the skin, although they can be diluted in a carrier oil, such as jojoba, for such use.

Perfume oils are fragrance components, natural or synthetic, in an oily base rather than an alcohol base, and can be used directly on the skin.

Saturday, November 25, 2006

Perfume houses A-B

In one version of the story, the recipe for 4711 was developed in 1792 by a Carthusian monk and then given to Wilhelm Mülhens as a wedding present. In another version, Mülhens essentially piggybacked on the already popular Eau de Cologne developed by Johann Maria Farina, and was eventually forced to rename his product. Either way, the Mülhens family continued to produce their family recipe into the 1990s, when the firm was purchased by Wella; Wella later became part of Procter & Gamble. In 2006, Procter & Gamble sold the 4711 business to Mäurer & Wirtz.

Flankers include 4711 Ice Cool.


Niche perfume house established in 2006 with four fragrances: Corazon, Beleza, Desejo and Cobice. A fifth fragrance, Inveja, followed.

Where to buy: online at beautycafe or lacremebeauty, also sold at Henri Bendel in New York. A complete list of retailers is on their website.

Niche perfume house established by absinthe producers Liquoristerie de Provence, and also known as Le Parfum d'Interdits. Their debut fragrance was Absolument Absinthe (2006).

Recent launches include Absolument Homme (2007)

Where to buy: at apothia or luckyscent in the US.

Acca Kappa
A line from northern Italy specializing in high end bath & body products, including an extensive selection of fragranced soaps. They were founded in 1869 by Hermann Krull; today, the company is run by his grand-daughter, Elisa Gera. Popular fragrances include White Moss and Calycanthus.

Where to buy: Acca Kappa has a boutique in the Venetian hotel in Las Vegas. The products are also sold in other boutiques in the US and Europe.

Acqua di Biella
A perfumery established in 1871 at Biella, Italy. As of early 2007, there were four fragrances: no. 1, Baraja, Janca and Bursch.

Recent releases include Ca' Luna (2008?), Cashmere Twill (2008).

Where to buy: online at aedes or luckyscent, or at Takashimaya in New York. In Germany, try first-in-fragrance.

Acqua di Parma
Best known for their signature cologne (Colonia) first introduced in 1916, the Italian line Acqua di Parma also produces several other fragrances and a plethora of bath, body and home fragrance products. A new shaving line was introduced in late 2005.

Fragrances include Colonia Assoluta, Profumo and Iris Nobile. An Eau de Parfum version of Iris Nobile launched in 2006.

Recent fragrance releases include Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa (2007), Profumi di Acqua di Parma (2008, new version of a 1930 fragrance).

An offshoot, Blu Mediterraneo, was established in 1999, and also produces fragrances and body products. In 2005, the Blu Mediterraneo line was streamlined and relaunched. Current fragrances include Arancia di Capri (orange), Cipresso di Toscana (cypress), Mandorlo di Sicilia (almond), Fico di Amalfi (fig) and Mirto di Panarea (myrtle).

Acqua di Parma's perfume business is owned by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH).

Where to buy: online at bigelowchemists, spacenk in the US, escentual in the UK, senteursdailleurs in Brussels, first-in-fragrance in Germany. Acqua di Parma is also in selected Neiman Marcus and Barneys department stores, and can be found in a number of smaller boutiques.

Acqua di Portofino
Italian niche line established by Francesca Casiraghi in the early 2000s with their eponymous unisex fragrance, Acqua di Portofino, followed by Acqua di Portofino Donna.

One of the largests sports brands in the world. The Adidas fragrances, which apparently do a huge global business, are produced under licensing arrangements with Coty. Not all of the fragrances are sold in the United States.

Recent releases include Originals Pour Homme (2005), Originals Pour Femme and Victory League (2006), Tropical Passion (2006), Pure Lightness (2007), Pure Energy (2007), Fair Play (2008), Energy Game, Passion Game (2008), Natural Vitality (2008)

Australian botanical skincare company founded by Dennis Paphitis in 1987.

The first fragrance was Marrakech (2005), followed by Mystra (2006).

Where to buy: in the UK, try Liberty of London; in France, the Colette boutique. The skincare line is available in the US, but to my knowledge, the fragrances are not.

The perfume house of Mandy Aftel, one of the early adherents of artisanal natural perfumery and the original founder of the Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild. The Aftelier website sells a number of ready-made fragrances as well as a selection of essential oils. Aftel is also the author of several books on perfumery, including Essence & Alchemy and Scents & Sensibility. See reviews of Aftelier Cepes & Tuberose and Clean Well Hand Wash Ginger Bergamot.

Recent releases include Tango and Orchid (2006), Fir Solid Perfume (2007), Cognac (2007), Parfum Prive & Muse (2007), Cassis (2008).

Where to buy: A list of retail locations is available on the website (see below).

Paris-based fragrance consulting firm established by Benoit Blanchard. The firm launched their first fragrances (Tedallal Man, Tedallal Woman, Muthhela Man, Muthhela Woman) in the 2000s under the line Arabia Felix (see website below).

Where to buy: the Arabia Felix line is distributed in France; a list of shops is available on the website.

The perfumery of fashion designer Agatha Brown, now based in Aruba. The range includes Agatha, Mystery of Agatha, Conquest, Imperial Jade for women and Imperial Jade for men.

Recent releases include Hearts & Flowers (2007?).

Agatha Paris
French costume jewelry line with several fragrances.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada
Spanish fashion designer known for her quirky, colorful clothing style. Fragrances include Flor, Corazon, Agua (2003), Imagina (2005), Beso (2007).

Agent Provocateur
A luxury lingerie line established in the UK in 1994 by Joseph Corre and Serena Rees. They introduced their first fragrance, Agent Provocateur, in 2000, and followed with a lighter version, Eau Emotionnelle, in 2006.

Other recent releases include Maitresse (2006), Strip (2007).

Where to buy: A list of Agent Provocateur boutiques can be found on the company website (see below). The fragrances are also available online at abeautifullife,, kitson, nellbutler, spacenk and at several fragrance discounters.

Agraria is a San Francisco-based company that specializes in home fragrance products, including potpourri. There are three fragrances available in Eau de Cologne: Bitter Orange, Balsam and Lemon Verbena.

Line of all-natural perfumes, ready-made and custom. Recent releases include Citron Regenerez (2006).

Where to buy: at Henri Bendel's in New York City, at their boutique in Carmel, California, or online (see below).

Alessandro Dell'Acqua
Italian fashion design house established in 1996, and purchased by the Redwall Group in 2003.

Dell'Acqua's first scent, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, was launched in 2001, and was followed by a men's version in 2003. Woman in Rose was launched in 2005. The fragrances were developed under licensing arrangements with Euroitalia.

Alexander McQueen
English fashion designer who opened his first studio in 1992. His first fragrance, Kingdom, launched in 2003. MyQueen followed in 2005, and was released in a new bottle in Enchanted Anniversary in 2006.

Recent releases include MyQueen Light Mist (2007).

Alexander McQueen's perfume line is under the ownership of the Gucci Group.

Where to buy: at major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters.

Alfred Sung
Fashion designer whose line of fragrances was launched in 1986 with Alfred Sung. Subsequent releases include Sung Homme (1989), Forever (1994), Pure (1997), Shi (2000), Hei (2002), Sha (2003), and Paradise (2003, women's and men's versions).

Recent releases include Jewel (2005), Bijou (2006) and Joya (2006).

Where to buy: at major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters.

Alvarez Gomez
Madrid-based perfume house best known for their Agua de Colonia Concentrada, a citrus-based classic cologne.

Where to buy: in the US at Delicias de Espana.

American Beauty
A division of Estee Lauder sold exclusively at Kohl's department stores. Their first fragrance, Wonderful, was introduced in 2005, and was followed by Wonderful Indulgence in 2006.

Recent releases include Beloved (2008).

Where to buy: Kohls

High end perfume house established in Oman in 1983 by the Sultan of Oman. Amouage uses the traditional materials of Middle Eastern perfumery, such as frankincense and myrrh, but the perfumes are developed by noses from the major fragrance & flavor companies. Their first fragrance, Amouage (now known as Amouage Gold), was developed by renowned nose Guy Robert. The website (see below) provides a complete list of their current offerings, and includes fragrance pyramids for each scent along with a listing of retailers. See reviews for Amouage Gold for men and Ubar.

Recent releases include Asana (2005, limited edition), Arcus (2005), Cirrus (2006), Reflection Man & Reflection Woman (2007), Jubilation 25 for women & Jubilation XXV for men (2007), Homage (2008), Lyric (2008).

Where to buy: online at aedes, fourseasons, luckyscent or parfumsraffy. In London, try Harrods or lessenteurs; in Canada, theperfumeshoppe, in Germany, first-in-fragrance,

German company with one perfume, All That Matters.

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent.

Andre Gas
French jeweller whose first fragrance, Ensolleile Moi, launched in 2006.

Where to buy: at beautyhabit.

Angela Flanders
Small British perfume house established by Angela Flanders in the 1980s.

Angel Schlesser

Spanish fashion designer known for his simple but elegant designs.

Fragrances include Angel Schlesser Femme (2000), Angel Schlesser Homme (2002), Essential for women (2004), Essential for men (2006), Eau de Gingembre (2007).

Where to buy: in the US, easily found at the online fragrance discounters.

Anna Sui
Fashion designer; her first boutique opened in Soho in 1992. Her fragrance line, produced under arrangements with Wella, debuted in 1999 with her signature fragrance, Anna Sui, which was followed by Sui Dreams, Sui Love and Dolly Girl.

Recent releases include Secret Wish (2005), Dolly Girl on the Beach (2006), Magic Romance (2006), Dolly Girl Bonjour L'Amour (2007), Flight of Fancy (2007), Dolly Girl Lil' Starlet (2008), Night of Fancy (2008).

Where to buy: major department stores, or online at victoriassecret.

Japanese cosmetics, skincare & fragrance company founded in 1988. Fragrances include Annayake for her and Annayake for him (2000).

Recent releases include Matsuri (2006), Tomo (2007).

Anne Pliska
One perfume, Anné Pliska, which is something of a cult favorite.

Where to buy: online at luckyscent, or at selected Nordstrom stores note: Nordstrom no longer carries the line. Samples can be ordered directly from the brand's website, see below.

Annick Goutal
Annick Goutal was a concert pianist and fashion model. She later worked with perfumers at Robertet to develop a fragrance for a face cream, and she found her calling; by 1980, she was ready to launch her own fragrance line. The company was acquired by the Taittinger Group in the mid 1980s; Taittinger has since been acquired by Starwood Capital.

Annick Goutal passed away in 1999. Since that time, her daughter Camille has continued to develop new fragrances with perfumer Isabelle Doyen. There are currently some 30-odd fragrances in the line, as well as bath and body products, a skincare line and home fragrances (see review for Petite Cherie candle).

Fragrances include Petite Cherie, Passion, Duel and Sables. See reviews for Folavril (1981), Eau de Camille (1983) & Eau de Charlotte (1982), Eau de Sud (1995) & Eau d'Hadrien (1981), Le Chevrefeuille (2002), Le Jasmin (2004), Vanille Exquise (2004)

Recent releases include Mandragore (2005), Songes (2005), Les Orientalistes ~ Ambre Fetiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant (2007), Musc Nomade (2008).

See also: shopping report for the Annick Goutal boutique on Motcomb St. in London.

Where to buy: Annick Goutal fragrances are carried at aedes (including many of the limited edition bottles),, and by selected Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Saks stores. In the UK, they are available online at escentual.

Ann Taylor
Women's clothing chain. The first store was opened in 1954; today, there are over 800 stores, including those operated under the names Ann Taylor Loft and Ann Taylor Factory.

Fragrances were introduced in 1994 with Destination.

Recent releases include Possibilities (2007).

Best known for their home fragrances. Three personal fragrances were introduced in 2006, including Citrus Sorbet, White Tuberose and Fig & Vetiver.

Where to buy: online at aedes and beautyhabit.

Antica Farmacista
Antica Farmacista was established in Italy in the early 1980s, and is currently owned by two Americans. They have a line of personal and home fragrances, including the popular Vaniglia, Mandarino e Bourbon.

See also, reviews for: Acqua Room & Linen Spray, Peonia Romantico fragrance diffuser.

Where to buy: Online at aedes, b-glowing, beautyhabit, beautyintuition and your-cosmetics. A list of retailers is also available on the Antica Farmacista website.

Antonia's Flowers

Perfume line founded by Antonia Bellanca, who established a florist's shop in East Hampton in 1981 and eventually decided she wanted to "capture the scent of her shop in a bottle". The first fragrance, Antonia's Flowers, appeared in 1984; the line now also includes Floret and Tiempe Passate.

Recent releases include Sogni del Mare (2007).

Where to buy: selected Neiman Marcus stores, or at the Antonia's Flowers website. In the UK, try spacenk.

Antonio Banderas
Spanish actor whose fragrance line is produced under arrangements with Puig Beauty.

Recent releases include Spirit for women (2005), Antonio (2006), Blue Seduction for Men (2007), Blue Seduction for Women (2008).

Where to buy: drugstores or mass market chain stores.

Anya's Garden
All natural perfume house established in 2006 by Anya McCoy, the founder of and president of the Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild. Three fragrances, Riverside, Pan and Fairchild, were introduced in 2006.

Recent releases include Kaffir & Temple (2007).

Apothia is a beauty boutique owned by Ron Robinson. Their first fragrance, the cult favorite IF, was launched in 2001, and was followed by Velvet Rope in 2005 and L Eau de Parfum in 2006.
Where to buy: at the website, or at one of the 2 boutiques in Los Angeles. In London, try Harvey Nichols.

Aquolina is an offshoot of the Italian cosmetics company Selectiva. They have a line of yogurt-based bath & body products called Aquolina Yogurt and a skincare line for teens called Aquolina Viso; other offshoots include hair care, lip gloss and home fragrance products.

They introduced their first perfume, the very popular Pink Sugar, in 2003. Chocolovers and Blue Sugar for men were launched in 2006.

Where to buy: online at nordstrom or sephora, and at selected online fragrance discounters.

Established by Estee Lauder in 1964 (it was EL's first offshoot) as a prestige men's grooming and fragrance line. The Aramis division is also the parent company of Tommy Hilfiger fragrances.

Well-known fragrances include Aramis (1964), Devin (1978), New West (1988) and Havana (1994). In 2003, Aramis introduced Aramis Life, a fragrance "inspired by tennis legend Andre Agassi"; in 2006, his wife Steffi Graf joined him in fronting Aramis Always.

Recent releases include Aramis Classic Reserve (2008).

Where to buy: at selected drug stores and department stores, or online at the various fragrance discounters.

Archipelago Botanicals
Los Angeles based company founded in 1996 and best known for their bath & body products and home fragrances. See review for Monogram Series Soy Candles: Key Lime & Neroli / Sweet Pea & Jasmine.

Personal fragrances were introduced in 2008 with Pomegranate and Grapefruit.

Armand Basi
Spanish fashion design house founded in 1986.

Fragrances include Armand Basi Femme & Homme (1999), Basi Femme & Basi Homme (2001). Recent releases include Lovely Blossom (2007).

Aroma M
Perfume line established in 1995 by Maria McElroy and Shinya Yokota. The Japan-inspired line of Geisha fragrances includes Geisha Violet, Geisha Green, Geisha Rouge, Geisha Noire, Geisha Blue, Geisha Pink, Geisha Blanche, Geisha O-cha, Geisha Nobara-cha and Geisha Hana-cha.

Recent releases include Geisha Marron (2006), Geisha Noire Eau de Parfum (2007).

Where to buy: luckyscent, miomia, theposhpeasant; a complete list of retailers is available on the Aroma M website.

Artemisia Natural Perfume
Indie house established in 2004 by Lisa Fong and specializing in 100% natural perfumes.

Recent releases include Blue Lotus Tabac & Edenwood (2007).

Art of Perfumery
Niche perfumery founded in Grasse in 2006 by Peter Milsted of the custom fragrance site Perfume Lab. You can read a description of the initial 7 fragrances here; also see review of no. 6, Spice Smoked Wood.

Where to buy: Sold through the Art of Perfumery website or at sündhaft in Germany.

The original Aspen fragrance for men was launched in 1989. The brand is now owned by Coty and has two fragrances for men, Aspen and Aspen Discovery, and one for women, Aspen Sensation.

Where to buy: drugstores and mass market chain stores, or at online fragrance discounters.

British luxury goods house established in 1871. One unisex fragrance, Asprey Purple Water, introduced in 2004.

Attar Bazaar
Attar perfume oils.

French niche line established in 1994 by Catherine Fructus and specializing in perfumes, herbal products and home fragrances.

See reviews for Esprit de Chine, Esprit de Cuir & Esprit de Chypre.

Where to buy: online at luckyscent in the US, or from the website (see below) in France.

Auric Blends
Perfume oils, including Egyptian Goddess.

Ava Luxe
Handcrafted perfumes by California-based perfumer Serena Ava Franco. In addition to ready-made perfumes, Ava Luxe has custom perfume services and a line of vintage "dupes".

See review for Ava Luxe Ultra Rich Body Lotion.

Recent releases include Madame X (2006), Shisa (2007), No. 23 (2007), Honey, Sin & Madeline (2007), Hong Kong Garden (2008), Sacred (2008).

Note: In November 2007, the Ava Luxe perfume business went on hiatus. As of early 2008, the perfumes were being sold through the Ava Luxe Etsy store.

Line of hair care, body and skin products founded in 1978, and now owned by Estee Lauder. See review for Aveda Shampure candle.

Recent fragrance releases include Rose Attar Pure Fume Absolute (2007, limited edition), Yatra Pure Fume (2007).

Where to buy: at Aveda salons and boutiques (see link below).

Founded as the California Perfume Company in 1886; the company took the name Avon in 1939. For most of its history, Avon relied on direct or "door-to-door" sales, but recently has begun selling its products online, and in some countries, in retail stores. Their first product was the "Little Dot Perfume Set" with five fragrances: Violet, White Rose, Heliotrope, Lily-of-the-Valley, and Hyacinth,

Avon also owns Mark, a label geared towards younger women.

Recent fragrance releases include Today.Tomorrow.Always, Extraordinary (2005), Crystal Aura (2006) and Derek Jeter Driven (2006), Far Away Paradise (2007), Island Vibe (2007), Surreal Garden (2007), Imari Seduction, Derek Jeter Driven Black (2007), Christian Lacroix Rouge & Noir (2007), Wish of Peace, Wish of Love, Wish of Happiness (2008), Today Tomorrow Always In Love (2008), Cynthia Rowley Flower & Petal (2008), True Glow (2008), U by Ungaro (2008), Bond Girl 007 (2008), Tahitian Holiday (2008), Make Me Smile, Make Me Wonder, Fire Me Up (2008), Patrick Dempsey Unscripted (2008).

Where to buy: from an Avon representative or the company website.

Ayala Moriel Parfums
Line of all-natural perfumes first established in 2001 as Quinta Essentia. Perfumer Ayala Sender has over 70 ready-made perfumes available, and a custom perfume service is available on request.

Recent releases include Sabotage, Yasmin & Zohar (2006), Kinmokusei (2006), Roses et Chocolat (2007), Coralle (2007), Tirzah (2007), Immortelle l'Amour (2007), Gigi, Gaucho & Incarnation (2008), Vetiver Racinettes (2008).

Where to buy: in Canada at, or through the website (see below)

Fashion design house established by Louis Azzaro in Paris in 1962. Azzaro passed away in 2003; the artistic director as of early 2008 was Vanessa Seward.

Their first fragrance, Azzaro Couture, was introduced in 1975; recent releases include Pink Tonic (2006), Bright Visit (2006), Jet Lag (2006), Blue Charm (2006), Azzaro Now Women and Azzaro Now Men (2007), Chrome Legend (2007), Cockpit (2008), Azzaro Couture 2008 (2008).

Where to buy: selected department stores, and also readily found online at the various fragrance discounters.

Baby Phat
Apparel and beauty line of Kimora Lee Simmons, former fashion model and spouse of hip hop mogul Russell Simmons (see also: Phat Farm). The fragrances are created under licensing arrangements with Coty.

Fragrances include Baby Phat Goddess (2005), Golden Goddess (2006), Fabulosity (2008), Seductive Goddess (2008).

Where to buy: department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Badgley Mischka
US-based fashion house founded by Mark Badgley and James Mischka in 1988. The line has expanded into something of a lifestyle brand, but is still "most famous for their exquisitely wrought dresses with elaborate handiwork, which have an Old World elegance inspired by early Hollywood movies" (Miami Herald, 3/13/2007). The label was acquired by Escada in 1992 and is currently owned by The Iconix Group (formerly Candie's). The fragrance license is held by Elizabeth Arden.

Fragrances were introduced in 2006 with Badgley Mischka, followed by Fleurs de Nuit in 2007.

Fashion house established in Spain by Cristobal Balenciaga (d. 1972) in 1918; the flagship store in Paris opened in 1937. Balenciaga is often called the most important designer of the 20th century, and during his lifetime was known as the "couturier of couturiers". The house of Balenciaga is currently owned by the Gucci Group, and the Creative Director is designer Nicolas Ghesquière.

Fragrances were introduced in 1946 with Le Dix. Subsequent releases include Quadrille (1955), Ho Hang (1971), Cialenga (1973), Prelude (1982), Rumba (1988), Pour Homme (1990), Talisman (1994) and Cristobal (1998).

Where to buy: department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Fashion design house founded by Pierre Balmain in Paris in 1945; the perfume business was launched the following year. According to Balmain, "As regards elegance, perfume is more important than accessories, jewels, and shoes" (Barille's Book of Perfume, p. 89). Balmain passed away in 1982. The company filed for bankruptcy protection in 2004, and is currently attempting a comeback under Creative Director Christophe Decarnin.

The early fragrances were created in the 1940s and 1950s by perfumer Germaine Cellier (Vent Vert, Jolie Madame, Madame Balmain & Monsieur Balmain); other well-known fragrances include Miss Balmain (1967) and Ivoire (1980).

Recent releases include Eau d'Amazonie (2005), La Mome (2007), Ambre Gris (2008).

Where to buy: selected department stores, and also readily found online at the various fragrance discounters.

Banana Republic
Casual clothing chain owned by Gap, Inc. Fragrances include Classic (1995), M (1995), W (1995), Modern (1997), BR (2002).

In 2006, Banana Republic launched the Discover Collection with five new fragrances: Alabaster, Jade, Rosewood, Slate & Black Walnut. Malachite & Cordovan followed in 2007.

Recent fragrance releases include Classic Limited Edition (2008).

Barbara Bui
Franco-Vietnamese fashion designer based in Paris. One fragrance, Barbara Bui Le Parfum, introduced in 2004 (and later discontinued).

Bath & Body Works
American chain established in 1990 and owned by The Limited. Bath & Body Works originally sold reasonably priced store-brand fragrances and bath & body products; the stores now carry a wide variety of niche brands and have a more upscale atmosphere. There are currently over 1500 stores in the US.

In 2004, Bath & Body Works also opened its first store under the CO Bigelow name; this spinoff chain is expected to grow over the next few years. The CO Bigelow stores are even more upscale, and carry a more expensive variety of niche fragrances.

See reviews for Le Couvent de Minimes Verbena & Lemon, Midnight Pomegranate Body Lotion & Shower Gel, Aromatherapy Black Currant Vanilla line.

Recent releases include Ile de Tahiti Coconut Vanille (2007), Midnight Pomegranate, Ile de Tahiti Tiare Flower & Fei Banana (2007), Wild Honeysuckle (2007), Moonlight Path & Sweet Pea Eau de Parfum (2007), Sparkling Peach (2007), Fresh Pineapple (2007), Sea Island Cotton, Freshwater Cucumber & Dancing Waters (2007), Irresistible Apple (2007), Blackberry Amber (2007), Velvet Tuberose (2007), Japanese Cherry Blossom Eau de Parfum (2007), Chocolate Amber (2007), Enchanted Orchid (2008), Hello Sugar! (2008), Blushing Cherry Blossom (2008), Rainkissed Leaves (2008), Black Amethyst (2008).

Beauty of Bathing
Upscale bath & body offshoot of The Thymes. Their first collection was Coco Monoi, introduced in 2008.

Becker Eshaya
Perfume house founded by Kristen Becker and John Eshaya.

Fragrances were introduced in 2005 with Be. Golden Amber followed in 2007.

Where to buy: beautyhabit or de-frazzle.

Bella Bellissima
Uk-based niche line that debuted in 2007 with 4 fragrances: Perfect Day, Perfect Night, Perfect Man, Perfect Man Alternative.

Where to buy: in the UK at major department stores, in the US at Henri Bendel.

Cosmetics & skincare firm. Fragrances were introduced in 2003 with Maybe Baby.

Recent releases include B Spot (2008).

Clothing brand established in Italy in 1965. Fragrances were introduced in 1987 with Colors of Benetton; other well known scents include Tribu (1993).

Recent releases include Cumbia Colors (2005), United Colors of Benetton Woman, Man, Unisex (2006), Puresport (2007), B.United Jeans (2007), White Night (2008), Energy (2008), Essence of United Colors of Benetton (2008).

Perfume house established in Toulouse in 1902, and best known for their Violettes de Toulouse (1936).

Where to buy: online at beautycafe.

Berkeley Square Cosmetics
UK-based "range of toiletries inspired by the stylish, chic and sophisticated elegance of the roaring twenties"; as of early 2008, the scents included Fig & Cherry, Lavender, Lime & Clarysage, White Tea and Rose Petal.

Betsey Johnson
American fashion designer who opened her first boutique in 1969. Her first scent, Betsey Johnson, launched in 1996, and was followed by Ultra (1998). Both were produced in-house rather than under licensing arrangements.

Her first widely distributed fragrance, also called Betsey Johnson, debuted in 2006 under arrangements with Colorful Licenses. A men's fragrance is rumored to be in the works.

Where to buy: department stores and online discounters.

Biehl Parfumkunstwerke
Hamburg-based niche perfume house established in 2006 by Thorstein Biehl, and styled as a "free space for perfume artists who can present their extraordinary creations to an audience". All of the fragrances are limited edition. See review for eo01.

Where to buy: online at luckyscent in the US, first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Menswear designer Bijan Pakzad founded his business in Beverly Hills in 1976. Fragrances were introduced in 1987 with Bijan for men and Bijan for women. Subsequent releases include Bijan With A Twist for women (2000), Bijan With A Twist for men (2001), Bijan Wicked Man & Wicked Woman (2005).

Recent releases include Bijan Black for women and Bijan Black for men (2006), Bijan Nude for women & Bijan Nude for men (2007).

Bill Blass

American fashion house of William Blass, who started as a designer in 1946 and established his own line in 1970. He sold the company and retired in 1999, and passed away in 2002.

Fragrances were introduced in 1970 with Bill Blass For Men. Bill Blass for women followed in 1978. Later releases include Basic Black, Nude and Hot (all 1990) and Amazing (1999).

Recent releases include The Fragrance From Bill Blass (2007), Bill Blass Couture 1, 3, 6 & 7 (2008).

Where to buy: at department stores or online fragrance discounters.

"Dermobiotic" spa & skincare line currently owned by L'Oreal. Three fragrance body sprays: Eau d'Energie, Eau Vitaminee & Eau Pure.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
Perfume oil "blends with a dark, romantic Gothic tone".

B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful
Founded by the owners of Lush in 2003 as a "sister company". The focus is on color cosmetics, bath & body and fragrance; the fragrances were developed by Lush co-founder Mark Constantine.

In 2006, there were 10 fragrances including 1000 Kisses Deep, Dear John, Keep It Fluffy and Ladyboy.

Recent releases include Breath of God, Inhale & Exhale (2007).

Where to buy: 3 shops in the UK or buy online; see website (below) for details.

Bobbi Brown
Makeup artist who established her own line of cosmetics in 1991. The company was bought by Estee Lauder in 1995. Bobbi Brown fragrances include Bobbi (1998), Beach (2002) and Bath (2006).

Recent releases include Almost Bare (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores, or online from gloss.

Body Time
Purveyor of bath and body products; their line includes a number of essential and perfume oils, and the popular fragrance China Rain. Body Time also sells a "perfume and cologne base", or diluent, which can be blended with perfume or essential oils to create Eau de Parfum or Eau de Toilette.

See reviews of Green Fig and Egyptian Musk.

Ski and sportswear company established in Germany by Olympic skier and filmmaker Willy Bogner in 1932, and now run by his son, Willy Bogner Jr. Fragrances include Bogner Snow, Bogner High Speed, Bogner Wood, and Bogner Man.

Where to buy: the fragrances are primarily marketed in Germany and other European countries, but can sometimes be found at the online fragrance discounters in the US.

Bois 1920
Italian niche line established in 2005 by Enzo Galardi and named for a shop his grandfather owned in Florence in the 1920s.

Where to buy: at luckyscent in the US, at first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Bond no. 9
Bond no. 9 was established as a niche perfume house in New York in 2003 by Laurice Rahme. The line currently includes some 25+ fragrances, most of which are named after (and inspired by) New York City neighborhoods.

Recent releases include Scent of Peace (2006), Fire Island (2006) West Side (2006), Bryant Park (2007), Coney Island (2007), Saks Fifth Avenue For Him & For Her (2007), Andy Warhol Silver Factory (2007), Andy Warhol Union Square (2008), Andy Warhol Lexington Avenue (2008).

Bodies by Bond, a line of bath & body products, was introduced in 2007. See review for the 24/7 Body Silk.

Where to buy: online at beautyandscents, beautycafe, fragrancesandmore, hamptonct; at Saks department stores, and at the Bond no. 9 boutiques in New York City or through their website (see below). In Germany, try first-in-fragrance; in the UK, Harvey Nichols or Harrods London.

BorsariPerfume house established in 1870 in Parma, Italy, by barber Lodovico Borsari. Their first (and best-known) fragrance was Violetta di Parma; see also brief review of Acqua della Macchia Mediterranea.

Where to buy: online at b-glowing, beautyintuition, hamptonct and luckyscent.

French jewelry firm established by Frédéric Boucheron in 1858. As of early 2008, the Boucheron fragrance license was held by L'Oreal.

Their first fragrance, Boucheron, was introduced in 1988. Other well known fragrances include Boucheron Pour Homme, Jaipur & Jaipur Saphir, Initial and Trouble.

Recent releases include Trouble Eau Legere (2006), Jaipur Homme Fraicheur (2006), Miss Boucheron (2007), B de Boucheron (2008).

See also review for Boucheron Trouble Dry Oil Spray.

Where to buy: at major department stores, or online at the various fragrance discounters.

Bourbon French
A small perfume house located in the French Quarter of New Orleans; it was originally established in 1843 as the Doussan French Perfumery. The Bourbon French line now includes the fragrances formerly sold under the name Lagniappe Oaks.

Recent releases include La Vie Nouvelle (2007).

BrandySmall line with one perfume, Brandy, created by owner Patricia Namm.

Where to buy: online at aedes, beautycafe, beautyhabit, hamptonct, luckyscent.

Britney Spears
American pop star whose fragrance line is produced under licensing arrangements with Elizabeth Arden. Her first fragrance, Curious, appeared in 2004 and was followed by Fantasy (2005) and In Control Curious (2006).

Recent releases include Britney Spears Midnight Fantasy (2007), Britney Spears Believe (2007), Curious ♥ Heart (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores and mass market chains, sephora, or online from various fragrance discounters.

Bruno Acampora
Italian line of perfume oils. See review for Bruno Acampora Jasmin.

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent.

Bruno Banani
German company established in 1993 as a maker of upscale men's underwear; the company has since expanded into watches, swimwear, and fragrance (under arrangements with Procter & Gamble). The company motto is "not for everybody".

Fragrances were introduced in with 2000 with Bruno Banani Man, followed the next year by Bruno Banani Woman.

Subsequent launches include Time to Play Man & Time to Play Woman (2002), Woman Scent From Hell & Scent From Heaven for men (2003), Pure Man (2005), Pure Woman (2007), Magic Man (2008).

Clothing line established in the UK in 1856 by Thomas Burberry. Burberry invented gabardine fabric; today, the company is best known for their trench coats and the famous Burberry check pattern, which adorns everything from umbrellas to dog leashes. The current design director is Christopher Bailey; the fragrance business is currently licensed to Inter Parfums.

The first fragrance, Burberry for men, debuted in 1981. Other well-known scents include Touch and Weekend. Brit, introduced in 2003, was a huge success, and was followed by Brit Red, Brit Gold, Brit for men and Brit Anniversary Edition.

Recent fragrance releases include Burberry London (2006), Burberry London for men (2006), Burberry Summer (2007), Burberry Brit Sheer (2007), Burberry The Beat (2008), Burberry London Special Edition (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores, or online at the various fragrance discounters.

Roman jewelry line founded by Greek immigrant Sotirios Voulgaris in 1884. The 'v' in the name is simply the Roman rendering of the letter 'u', so the name is really "Bulgari".

Bvlgari's first fragrance was 1992's Eau Parfumee au Thé Vert; it was followed by Pour Femme (1994, relaunched in 2006 with Kate Moss as spokesmodel), Pour Homme, Black (1998), Blv (2000), Blv Pour Homme (2001), Thé Blanc (2003) and Omnia (2003) among others.

Recent releases include Aqva Pour Homme (2005), Omnia Crystalline (2005), Rose Essentielle & Voile de Jasmin (2005), Thé Rouge (2005), Pour Homme Soir (2006), Omnia Amethyste (2007), Rose Essentielle Eau de Toilette (2007), Aqva Pour Homme Marine (2008), Jasmin Noir (2008)

Where to buy: at major department stores, or online at the various fragrance discounters.

Italian fashion brand established in 1973; the early designs were by Gianni Versace. The Byblos Blu line is geared towards younger consumers.

Recent releases include Byblos Woman (2006), Byblos Man (2007), Byblos Water Flower (2007).

By Kilian
Luxury niche fragrance line established in 2007 by Kilian Hennessy, grandson of the founder of Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy. The initial offerings included six scents under the name The Black Masterpiece: two for women (Love and Beyond Love), two for men (A Taste of Heaven and Straight to Heaven) and two unisex scents, (Liaisons Dangereuses and Cruel Intentions).

Recent releases include Prelude to Love (2008).

Where to buy: in the US at Bergdorf Goodman, aedes, apothia, luckyscent; in London at Harvey Nichols; in Paris at Printemps Haussman.

Stockholm-based niche line established in 2006 by Ben Gorham, and originally specializing in home fragrance products. Personal fragrances were introduced in 2008 with Rose Noir, Pulp, Gypsy Water, Green & Chembur.

Where to buy: in London at lessenteurs.

Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Perfume houses C

Fashion design house established by Jean Bousquet in 1962. The perfume line is now a division of L'Oreal.

The brand's first perfume, Anais Anais, launched in 1978, and "pioneered the concept of a designer fragrance at an affordable price" (Perfume Legends by Michael Edwards, p. 185). Subsequent fragrance releases include Lou Lou (1987), Eden (1994), Noa (1998), Gloria (2002), Amor Amor (2003), Noa Fleur (2004) and Promesse (2005).

Recent releases include Amor Pour Homme (2006), Noa Perle (2006), Liberte (2007), Amor Amor Sunshine & Amor Pour Homme Sunshine (2007), Anais Anais Flower Edition (2007), Promesse Eau Fraiche (2007), Amor Amor Tentation (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters.

Calvin Klein
Fashion design house established by American designer Calvin Klein in the late 1960s. Klein became a household name in the 1970s and 1980s following his hugely popular jeans and underwear lines, and their controversial advertising campaigns.

His first big success in fragrance was 1985's Obsession, which was followed by Eternity (1989) and Escape (1991), among others. His unisex fragrance CK One (1994), was another big hit and was followed by CK Be (1996).

Recent releases include Obsession Night for women & Obsession Night for men (2005), Euphoria (2005) and Euphoria Blossom (2006), Eternity Summer 2006 (2006), CK One Electric (2006), Euphoria for men (2006), Eternity Summer 2007 (2007), CK One Summer (2007), Calvin Klein CKIN2U (2007), Calvin Klein Man (2007), Euphoria Crystalline Collection (2007), Euphoria Men Intense (2008), Eternity Summer 2008 (2008), CK One Summer 2008 (2008), CK IN2U POP (2008), Secret Obsession (2008).

Calvin Klein's fragrance license is held by Coty.

Chain of resort-wear boutiques owned by Christiane Celle. Celle opened her first store on St. Barthelemy island in 1992; the company now has 20 stores, including a boutique in Paris. The fragrance line was introduced in 1995, and there are currently 10+ scents available. See reviews of Tangerine (formerly Homme), Chevrefeuille and Gardenia.

Recent releases include Figue (2006).

Where to buy: online at beautyhabit, bluemercury, luckyscent, and parfum1 in the US; first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Calypso St Barth
Line established by Liliane Jossua. Makers of Jala St Barth and cult favorite Lea St Barth. Lea is also available in a concentrated form, Lea Extreme.

Recent releases include Lily (2007).

Where to buy: beautyhabit, luckyscent.

Campos de Ibiza
Spanish fragrance house established in 1981. The original range included Mandarina, Cedro and Rosa; Jazmin & Higo (Fig) were added in 2006.

Where to buy: in the US at Takashimaya, chopinchemists; in London at lessenteurs.

Italian menswear firm established in 1934 by the Canali brothers. Fragrances were introduced in 2005 with Canali for men.

Recent releases include Canali Summer Night (2007), Canali Black Diamond (2007), Canali Style (2008).

Where to buy: in department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Carla Fracci
Italian ballerina; her line of fragrances is produced under arrangements with Satinine. The first scent, Carla Fracci, appeared in 2003, and was followed by Giselle in 2005.

Carlos Santana
American rock star who entered the fragrance market in 2005 with Carlos Santana for women and Carlos Santana for men. The fragrances are produced under arrangements with Victory International.

Carolina Herrera
Fashion design house established by Carolina Herrera in 1980. Herrera reportedly mixed her own blend of jasmine and tuberose for years before launching her own fragrance line, and also wore Fracas, Joy and Jungle Gardenia (Women's Wear Daily, 2/19/1988).

The fragrance license is held by Puig Beauty. Her first fragrance, Carolina Herrera, was released in 1988. Other releases include 212 (1997), which was followed by a series of flankers including 212 Sexy and 212 On Ice.

Recent releases include Aqua for men (2005), 212 Sexy Men (2006), 212 Splash and 212 Men Splash (2007), Carolina Herrera CH (2007), 212 Splash 2008 (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters.

Carol's Daughter
Beauty line founded by Lisa Price in Brooklyn in 1993. The line currently includes nine fragrances: Ocean, Jamaican Punch, Groove, Mango Melange, Almond Cookie, Ecstasy, Big Kahuna, Green Tea and Sandalwood and Vanilla.

Where to buy: macys or sephora, or see the complete list of outlets on the company website.

Parfums Caron was founded in Paris in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff. Daltroff was a self-taught perfumer, and was responsible for the house's early fragrance releases. His partner and muse was Félicie Wanpouille, who took over the fragrance packaging and, after Daltroff's death, the management of the company.

Daltroff fled Paris for the United States in 1939 and died two years later. Daltroff's assistant Michel Morsetti continued to create new fragrances for the line, some of them based on formulas left in Daltroff's notes. In 1988, Parfums Caron was purchased by the Ales Group. The current house nose is Richard Fraysse.

Narcisse Noir (1911) was Daltroff's first big success, and is the earliest of his creations that is still made today. Other well known Caron fragrances include Tabac Blond (1919), Nuit de Noel (1922), Bellodgia (1927), En Avion (1929), Fleurs de Rocaille (1934), Alpona (1939), Farnesiana (1947) and Muguet du Bonheur (1952),

Modern creations include Yatagan (1976), Nocturnes (1981), Fleur de Rocaille (1993), Aimez Moi (1996), L'Anarchiste (2000), Lady Caron (2000), Tubereuse (2003), Miss Rocaille (2004), Impact Pour Homme (2005).

Recent releases include Eau de Reglisse (2006), Montaigne (2007, reissue of a 1986 scent), Les plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters. The "urn fragrances", so called because the parfum is kept in an urn which is used to fill the bottle chosen by the customer (see picture accompanying the review of Narcisse Blanc), must be purchased at one of the the Caron boutiques. There is a list of locations on the website, or see a report on the New York boutique.

Small niche line from the Italian island of Capri. The original fragrances were adapted by perfumer Laura Tonatto from old formulas developed by the monks at the Monastery of St. Giacomo. Fragrances include Mediterraneo, Fiori di Capri, Uomo, Io Capri, Aria di Capri, Ligea La Sirena and Numero Uno.

Where to buy: aedes, beautyhabit, fourseasonsproducts, or at selected Barneys stores in the US, senteursdailleurs in Brussels, first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Jewelry firm founded in Paris in 1847; now a maker of a wide range of luxury goods ranging from jewelry to tableware to leather goods to perfume.

Fragrances include Must de Cartier (1981), Panthere (1987), Pasha (1992), Must II (1993), So Pretty (1995), Declaration (1998), Eau de Cartier (2001), Le Baiser du Dragon (2003).

In 2005, Cartier began offering a custom fragrance service with perfumer Mathilde Laurent.

Recent releases include Delices de Cartier (2006), Delices de Cartier Eau Fruitee (2007), Roadster (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters.

French couture house established by Carmen de Tomasso (later known as Madame Carven) in 1945. Her understated designs, influenced by her training in interior design, were popular with petite (she was 5' 2") and younger women, as was her use of simple fabrics (she was said to be the first couture designer to use cotton).

Fragrances were introduced in 1946 with Ma Griffe. Along with Vetiver (1957), it remains the line's best known scent.

Castelbajac Parfums
Perfume house of sportswear & jeans designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, whom Women's Wear Daily calls "one of France's most offbeat designers". Fragrances include Premier de Jean Charles Castelbajac (1982, discontinued) and Castelbajac (2001).

Castle Forbes
Small niche perfumery established by Malcolm Forbes and named for a castle built by his grandfather in Scotland. Line currently includes 2 feminine and 4 masculine fragrances.

Caswell Massey
Soap & toiletries company established in the United States in 1752, and one of the early pioneers of the mail order catalog business. In 2007, Caswell Massey was purchased by the investment firm Equitium Group.

CB I Hate Perfume
Niche perfumery established in Brooklyn in 2004 by perfumer Christopher Brosius, formerly of Demeter. The line includes perfumes as well as individual accords (examples include Celo Tape, Birthday Cake and Bonfire).

Recent releases include Tea/Rose (2006), M2 Black March (2006), Wild Pansy (2006), CB Musk (2006), Violet Empire (2006), Cradle of Light & Revelation (2006), Gingerbread (Holiday limited edition, 2006), Eternal Return, Wild Hunt, Greenbriar 1968, I am a Dandelion, Under the Arbor (2007), Fire From Heaven & Gingerbread (2007).

Where to buy: from the website or the boutique in Brooklyn, or at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC, or luckyscent.

Fashion and leather goods house established in 1946 and now held by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy. Their first fragrance, Magic, launched in 1996; recent launches include Celine Fever (2005).

Celine Dion
Canadian pop singer. Fragrances are produced under license to Coty, and include Celine (2003), Parfum Notes (2004), Belong (2005), Always Belong (2006), Celine Dion Enchanting (2006).

Recent releases include Spring in Paris (2007), Paris Nights (2007), Sensational (2008), Sensational Moment (2008).

Cereus was established in 2004. The company's focus is on "concept and brand development" (i.e., they help other brands to launch fragrance lines); their own "house line" of fragrances launched in 2007 with Cereus Pour Homme No. 4, No. 5, No. 7 & No. 11.

Where to buy: at Barneys or luckyscent.

Cerruti was first established in 1881 as a textile business in Biella, Italy. In the 20th century, Nino Cerruti built the company into a fashion design house. Fragrances were introduced in 1978, and are now produced under Coty, Inc.

Recent fragrance releases include Cerruti 1881 Collection (2005), Cerruti 1881 Blanc (2006), Cerruti 1881 Black for men (2006), Cerruti 1881 Lumieres d'Ete (2007), Cerruti Pour Homme (2007), 1881 En Fleurs (2008).

Fashion design house founded by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1910. Chanel was known first for her hats, and later for the relatively relaxed but elegant fashions that replaced corset-based styles with simple jersey suits and dresses, and later, pants. The iconic Chanel suit was introduced after the war, in 1954. Chanel died in 1971.

The first Chanel fragrance, Chanel No. 5, was launched in 1921, and like other early Chanel fragrances (Chanel no. 22, Bois des Iles, Gardenia and Cuir de Russie) was created by perfumer Ernest Beaux. Various apocryphal stories surround the creation of Chanel No. 5, including the well-known tale that the final formula was the result of an error on the part of Beaux's assistant, who mistakenly increased the intended amount of aldehydes. Regardless, No. 5 was a huge seller and became one of the world's best known perfumes.

Chanel No. 19 was introduced in 1971. Fragrances released since the death of Coco Chanel include Cristalle (1974), Coco (1984), Allure (1996), Allure Homme (1998), Coco Mademoiselle (2001) and Chance (2002). Jacques Polge has been house nose at Chanel since 1978.

In 2007, Chanel introduced a new, limited distribution line called Les Exclusifs de Chanel, including four existing scents (Chanel no. 22, Bois des Iles, Gardenia and Cuir de Russie) and six new fragrances (Bel Respiro, 28 La Pausa, 31 Rue Cambon, Coromandel, no. 18 and Eau de Cologne). In 2008, Sycomore and Beige were added to the range. These are available only in Chanel boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman and selected Nordstrom (Seattle has them) and Saks stores.

Other recent releases include Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche (2007), Allure Homme Sport Cologne Sport (2007), No. 5 Eau Premiere (2007), Allure Homme Edition Blanche (2008).

Where to buy: at department stores and online fragrance discounters. Your best bet for the harder to find fragrances is directly through the Chanel website (see below).

Chantal Thomass
French lingerie brand with several perfumes, including Chantal Thomass (2002), Ame Coquine (2004), Et Plus si Affinités (limited edition, 2005), Sexy Summer (limited edition, 2005).

Where to buy: at escentual in the UK; in the US, check the online discounters.

Beauty house launched in 1997 by Sylvie Chantecaille, who had previously worked for several other beauty brands, including Prescriptives. The line debuted with three fragrances: Wisteria, Frangipane and Tiare. Color cosmetics and skincare followed.

Later fragrances include Darby Rose (1999), Le Jasmin (2003).

Where to buy: at eluxury, spacenk or Bergdorf Goodman, selected Neiman Marcus and CO Bigelow stores.

French fashion design house. Their first fragrance, Chloe, was introduced in 1975 while Karl Lagerfeld was the house designer. It was followed by Narcisse (1992) and Innocence (1996). The Chloe fragrance business is currently held by Coty.

Recent releases include Chloe Collection 2005 (limited edition), Chloe Eau de Parfum (2007).

High end jewelry and watchmaker established in 1860. Well known fragrances include Casmir, Wish, Madness and Infiniment.

Recent releases include Wish Pink Diamond (2005), Chopard Pour Homme (2006), Wish Turquoise Diamond (2007), Happy Spirit (2007), Happy Spirit Magical Nights (2008).

Chopard fragrances are produced under licensing arrangements with Coty.

Christian Dior
French fashion house established in 1946 and famous for the "New Look": pinched waist, soft shoulders, full skirts. See pictures of the New Look fashions, and read more about Dior's designs at designmuseum. Christian Dior passed away in 1957; current designers for the house are John Galliano for the women's line; Hedi Slimane for the men's. In 2007, Hedi Slimane was let go, his replacement is rumored to be Kris Van Assche.

Miss Dior was launched in 1947. After that came Diorama (1949), Eau Fraiche, Diorissimo (1956), Eau Sauvage (1956), Diorling (1963), Diorella (1972), Dioressence (1979), Dior Dior and Jules.

Poison, released in 1985, was the first feminine fragrance without the word Dior in the name, and was followed by the flankers Tendre Poison (1994), Hypnotic Poison (1998), Pure Poison (2004) and Midnight Poison (2007).

Other well known Dior fragrances include Dune, Fahrenheit, J'Adore, Dolce Vita, and Addict.

Recent releases include Miss Dior Cherie (2005), Dior Addict 2 (2005), Dior Homme (2005), Pure Poison Elixir (2006), Midnight Charm (2006), Fahrenheit 32 (2007), Dior Addict 2 Summer Peonies (2007), Miss Dior Cherie Eau de Toilette (2007), Dior Homme Cologne (2007), Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir (2007), Dior Addict Shine & J'Adore Le Jasmin (2007), J'Adore L'Absolu (2007), Dior Homme Intense (2007), La Collection Particuliere Passage N°4, N°8 & N°9 (2007), Miss Dior Cherie Eau de Printemps (2008), Escale a Portofino (2008), Dior Addict 2 Summer Litchi (2008), Miss Dior Cherie Blooming Bouquet (2008), Dior Homme Sport (2008), Poison Elixirs (2008).

Christian Dior Parfums is now part of Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy.

Where to buy: major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters.

Christian Lacroix
French fashion house; Christian Lacroix started out at Jean Patou, then opened his own house in 1987. Lacroix was Creative Director at Pucci for several years ending in 2006. His own house is currently owned by The Falic Group, who purchased it from Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy.

Fragrances were introduced with C'est La Vie (1989), followed by Christian Lacroix (1999), Bazar (women & men, 2002), Tumulte for women (2005) and Tumulte Pour Homme (2005).

Recent releases include C'est La Fete (2007), Christian Lacroix Rouge & Noir (in conjunction with Avon, 2007), C'est La Fete Patchouli (2008).

Christina Aguilera
American pop singer. Two fragrances were introduced in the early 2000s under agreements with New Dana Perfumes (now Dana Classic Fragrances); those perfumes, never widely distributed, are now discontinued. Her debut fragrance under new arrangements with Procter & Gamble, Christina Aguilera, was introduced in 2007.

Recent releases include Inspire (2008).

Cindy Crawford
Fashion model whose fragrances are produced under arrangements with Wella. Her first fragrance, Cindy Crawford, launched in 2003; her latest release was Summer Day (2006).

Cinq Mondes
French spa line established by Jean-Louis Poiroux in 2000. Fragrance products include Eau Egyptienne.

Recent releases include the Pluie d’Arômes collection (2007).

Where to buy: online at beautyhabit.

French cosmetics firm established in 1954. Groupe Clarins also holds the fragrance licenses for Azzaro, David Yurman, Stella Cadente, Swarovski, Thierry Mugler.

Fragrances under the Clarins brand name include Eau Dynamisante, Elysium and Eau Ressourcante. See review for “Relax” Bath & Shower Concentrate and Body Balm.

Recent releases include Par Amour and Par Amour Toujours (2005), Eau Ensoleillante aka Sunshine Fragrance (2007).

Claudie Pierlot
French fashion designer who established her own line in 1984. Her first fragrance, Mon Premier, launched in 1999.

Recent releases include Eau de Claudie, Eau de Cloco and Eau de Pierlot (2007).

Claus Porto
Claus Porto was founded in 1887 in the city of Porto, Portugal, by two German chemists: Ferdinand Claus and Georges Schwedder. The founders were forced to leave Portugal during WWI and sold the company to Achilles de Brito, who renamed the firm “Ach. Brito Cosmética.” Under de Brito’s leadership, the company prospered and became known for its luxurious soaps. Today, Claus Porto sells bar and liquid soap, bath foams and salts, body lotions, candles, and a men’s fragrance and grooming line under the name Musgo Real (see Agua de Colonia no 1, no 2 & no. 3).

Where to buy:, beautycollection, lafcony, smallflower, and selected Saks stores.

Fragrance line founded in 2003 by Randi Shinder, who wanted to create "a fragrance that was reminiscent of pure soap, that universal fresh out of the shower scent". Fragrances include Clean, Clean Men, Clean Fresh Laundry and Clean Sweet Layer.

Recent releases include Clean Warm Cotton, Lather & Shower Fresh (2007), Wellness by Clean Harmony & Purity (2008).

Where to buy: available online at b-glowing, beautycafe, nordstrom and sephora.

Clementine Perfume (Melissa Flagg)
Line established by Melissa Flagg with the launch of Clementine (2007?).

Recent releases include Hazel's Perfume (2007), Mily Perfume (2008), Fleur de Grace (2008), Violet's Perfume (2008), Daisies, Laulena & Sadie's (2008).

Where to buy: beautyhabit.

Launched by Estee Lauder in 1968 and initially famous for the "3 step skincare system". Fragrances include Aromatics Elixir (1971), Wrappings (1990) and Simply (2003). Chemistry for men was introduced in 1994.

Happy was launched in 1997 and became a big seller for the brand. Clinique followed with Happy for men (1999), Happy Heart (2003), Happy to Be (2004) and Happy in Bloom (2006).

Recent releases include Aromatics Elixir Velvet Sheer (2006), Happy Summer Spray (2007).

Where to buy: Clinique counters at major department stores, and online fragrance discounters.

Clive Christian
Clive Christian's firm creates luxury custom kitchens and interiors as well as freestanding furniture, tableware, and other high end goods.

Christian purchased the historic Crown Perfumery in 1999. One of their vintage scents inspired his first fragrance release under his own name, 1872 (named for the year Crown was established), which launched in 2001. In 2002, he discontinued the Crown line, but has continued to release new fragrances under the Clive Christian label, including No. 1 (advertised as "the world's most expensive perfume") and X.

Where to buy: online at nordstrom or saks.

American leather goods brand established in New York City in 1941. Coach was acquired by Sara Lee in 1985, then spun off into a separate company again in 2000.

Their debut fragrance, Coach The Fragrance, was introduced in 2007. It was followed by Coach Legacy in 2008.

Where to buy: at Coach boutiques or online (see below).

Comme des Garçons
Tokyo-based fashion design house of Rei Kawakubo. "I have never really been into fragrances," said Kawakubo in 1999 (Women's Wear Daily, 9/20/2003), and perhaps that attitude explains the brand's strikingly unconventional range of scents.

Their first perfume, Comme des Garcons Eau de Parfum, launched in 1994. Other fragrances include White (1996), Odeur 53 (1998), Comme des Garcons 2 (1999), Odeur 71 (2000), Comme des Garcons 3 (2002), Comme des Garcons 2 Man (2004). The license for these fragrances is held by Puig Beauty.

In addition to the above, there is a series of series, or themed sets, of fragrances, including Series 1: Leaves (2000), Series 2: Red (Harisssa, Sequoia, Palisander, Carnation and Rose), Series 3: Incense (Avignon, Jaisalmer, Kyoto, Ouarzazate & Zagorsk, 2002), Series 4: Cologne (2002), Series 5: Sherbet (2003), Series 6: Synthetic, Series 7: Sweet (2005), Series 8: Energy C Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime (2008).

Recent releases include Guerilla 1 and Guerilla 2 (2006), Comme des Garcons Play (2007), Luxe Patchouli & Luxe Champaca (2007), 888 (2008), Monocle + Comme des Garçons Scent One: Hinoki (2008), Comme des Garcons + Stephen Jones (2008).

Where to buy: online at beautyhabit or luckyscent, or at Barneys in New York City, or at one of the Comme des Garcons boutiques (there is one in Chelsea in NYC). In the UK, try escentual or doverstreetmarket (and see also, shopping report for Dover Street Market). In Brussels, try senteursdailleurs. In Canada, theperfumeshoppe.

Comptoir Sud Pacifique
French niche fragrance line founded in 1974. The "Eaux de Voyage" scents are inspired by the islands of the South Pacific; many are based on vanilla and/or tropical flowers and fruits. See reviews for Aqua Motu (1992) and the Soins de Plaisir Body Care line.

Recent releases include Vanille Extreme (2005), Vanille Pineapple (2006), Vanille Citrus (2006), Vanille Amande (2006, relaunch), Coco Extreme (2006), Caramel Sunset (2007), Mage d'Orient and Eau de Naphé (2007), Eau des Lagons (2008), Hemisphere Sud (2008).

Where to buy: aedes, b-glowing, fourseasons, luckyscent, sephora or selected fragrance discounters in the US, senteursdailleurs in Brussels.

Costume National
Italian fashion design house founded by Ennio and Carlo Capasa. Their first fragrance, Scent, was introduced in 2002, and has been followed by Scent Intense, Scent Gloss, and Scent Sheer.

Recent releases include 21 Costume National (2008).

Where to buy: online at barneys, kitson or luckyscent, or check the online fragrance discounters.

Côté Bastide
Provence-inspired line of home fragrances, personal fragrances and bath & body items founded by Nicole Houques. The line includes a range of reasonably priced Eau de Toilettes in Amber, Iris, Mimosa, Orange Blossom, and more. Also see reviews for Peche de Vigne fragrance, Peche de Vigne candle, and Figuier candle.

Where to buy: online at aedes, beautyhabit or fourseasons.

In 1904, François Spoturno moved to Paris, took the name Coty and launched his perfume business. He was one of the first to understand the importance of fragrance packaging and a beautiful bottle, and his business grew until he was one of the wealthiest men in France. You can read a 1930 New Yorker profile on Coty here. He died in 1934.

Chypre, arguably his most famous scent (among modern perfume freaks, at any rate), was released in 1917; other well-known fragrances include L'Origan, L'Aimant, Jungle Gardenia and Emeraude. See also the reviews of Muguet des Bois (1941), Vanilla Musk (1972), Vanilla Fields (1993).

The history of the modern company, Coty, Inc, is too complicated to relate in detail here, but it is currently one of the largest fragrance and cosmetics companies in the world. Relatively few fragrances are now released under the Coty brand name itself; most releases are from other brands in the Coty portfolio. In 2005, Coty purchased Unilever's fragrance business, thereby acquiring the rights to fragrances under the names Calvin Klein and Vera Wang, among others.

There are two major fragrance divisions: Coty Beauty, which produces mass market brands such as Adidas, Aspen, Celine Dion, David and Victoria Beckham, Desperate Housewives, Esprit, Jovan, Isabella Rossellini, Kylie Minogue, Mary-Kate & Ashley, Miss Sixty, Shania Twain and Stetson; and Coty Prestige (formerly the Lancaster Group), which markets prestige brands such as Baby Phat, Calvin Klein, Cerruti, Chloe, Chopard, Davidoff, Gwen Stefani/LAMB, Jennifer Lopez, Jil Sander, Joop!, Kenneth Cole, Marc Jacobs, Nautica, Phat Farm, Sarah Jessica Parker, Vera Wang and Vivienne Westwood.

The luxury cognac brand, currently owned by Beam Global Spirits & Wine, entered the fragrance market in 2007 with Courvoisier L'edition Imperiale, a fragrance for men. There are plans in the works for several more fragrances.

The fragrance license for Courvoisier is held by Kraft International Marketing.

Where to buy: in the US, at Bergdorf Goodman or luckyscent, in the UK at John Lewis.

Crabtree & Evelyn
Apothecary line known for its traditional English-style goods, although the company was actually established in Cambridge, Massachussetts in the 1970s.

Recent releases include Lost and Found (2006), Jilt, Folly & India Hicks Island Living Spider Lily (2007, see review for Spider Lily Body Cream), West Indian Lime (2007), Uncharted (2007).

Crazylibellule and The Poppies
French line of solid, twist-up perfumes established in 2005 by Isabelle Masson-Mandonnaud. There are currently 3 ranges: the Shanghaijava Collection (see review for Encens Mystic), Poule de Luxe (see reviews for Vanilla Moka, Vanilla Macarons & Vanilla Pralines) and Les Divines Alcoves (see reviews for Aux Anges, Amoureuse & Tout Oublier).

Recent additions include Les Olfactives - L'Olfactive 122, L'Olfactive 127 & L'Olfactive 129 (2007), Les Batons (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at b-glowing, beautyhabit, lacremebeauty or luckyscent, in France at, in the UK at hqhair.

Creative Scentualization
Independent perfumery established by Sarah Horowitz-Thran in 1994. Horowitz-Thran creates custom perfumes on request. Lines include Perfumer's Palette, a set of single note scents to wear alone or layer, and the ready-made Perfect Perfumes, including Perfect Gardenia, Perfect Vanilla, Perfect Nectar, Perfect Bliss and Perfect Veil. Recent releases include Perfect Kiss (2007).

A "What Comes From Within" collection under the name Sarah Horowitz includes Peace, Light & Love and Joy Comes From Within (all 2006), Beauty Comes from Within (2007).

Where to buy: apothia, beautyhabit, fourseasons, lacremebeauty, luckyscent.

Creative Universe
Small perfume line established by Beth Terry. Fragrances include Te (1997), Mare (1997), Vita (2002) and Element of Surprise (2004).

Recent releases include Element of Desire (2006), Element of Attraction (2008).

Where to buy: beautyhabit, luckyscent, newlondonpharmacy, theposhpeasant, also selected Barneys stores.

Perfume house established in London in 1760. Creed moved its operations to Paris in 1854, and remains a family-owned company.

Recent releases include Original Santal, Love in White (2005), Virgin Island Water (2007), Love in Black (2008).

Where to buy: aedes, fourseasons, parfumsraffy or neimanmarcus.

Cristiano Fissore
Italian knitwear house known for its cashmere designs. Fragrances include Cashmere for men & Cashmere for Women (2006).

Recent releases include Rapsodia in Blu (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent, in Germany at first-in-fragrance.

Crown Perfumery
Crown Perfumery was founded in 1872 by William Thomson, a chemist who started out by producing lavender smelling salts to restore the ladies who fainted while trying on the wares in his father's corset shop. This was followed by a line of perfumes in the English style, à la Floris or Penhaligons. The company was eventually sold, then folded, was later resurrected, and later still was purchased by Clive Christian. Christian first streamlined the range of fragrances, then discontinued the line altogether in 2002. See review of Eau de Russe.

Where to buy: some stock remains at parfumsraffy.

Cynthia Rowley
American fashion designer whose first fragrance, Cynthia Rowley, debuted in 2005. In 2008, Cynthia Rowley launched Flower & Petal for Avon.

Czech & Speake
British maker of bathroom fixtures founded in 1979. They launched a fragrance line in 1980. There are currently 9 fragrances in the range, including Neroli and no. 88.

Where to buy: online at apothia or cambridgechemists.

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Perfume houses D-E

Daisy Fuentes Beauty
Former model and actress who launched her own clothing and beauty lines. Fragrances were introduced in 2006 with Dianoche, followed by So Luxurious in 2007.

Recent releases include Dianoche Ocean (2008).

Where to buy: at Kohls.

Damien Bash
Small niche line with five fragrances: Lucifer no. 1, Lucifer no. 2, Lucifer no. 3, Lucifer no. 4 and Sin.

Where to buy: theperfumeshoppe (Canada).

Dana (Dana Classic Fragrances)
Perfume house established in 1932 by Javier Serra. Their first release was the now iconic Tabu (1932). Other well known fragrances include Ambush and Canoe.

Dana's prestige offerings were reconfigured for the mass market over the years, and the company was acquired, along with Houbigant, by Renaissance Cosmetics in 1994. Renaissance filed for Chapter 11 in 1999; its brands were acquired by New Dana Perfumes, later renamed Dana Classic Fragrances. Dana Classic Fragrances markets Chantilly, Tabu, Ambush, Love's Baby Soft, Canoe, and English Leather, among others.

Recent releases include English Leather Black (2007), Tabu Forbidden (2008).

Danica Aromatics
California-based perfume house established in 1993 by Danica Siegal Hyman. The "I Am" collection includes 10+ scents under the names I am passion, I am wild, I am good, etc.

Where to buy: at hamptonct or directly from Danica Aromatics.

Daniel Hechter
French fashion house. Designer Daniel Hechter is perhaps best known for his ready-to-wear clothing.

Fragrances were introduced in 1989 with Caractere. Subsequent releases include Sport (1999), Contact (2003).

Recent releases include Hechter Paris (2007).

David and Victoria Beckham (dvb)
He is the well-known soccer player, she was formerly Posh Spice of the Spice Girls.

Fragrances are created under arrangements with Coty, and include David Beckham Instinct (2005), Intimately Beckham for him & for her (2006), Intense Instinct (2007), Intimately Beckham Night for him & for her (2007), Instinct After Dark (2008), Beckham Signature (2008).

Swiss luxury brand, known for its small leather goods, cigars and cigarettes, and fashion accessories.

Perfumes are produced under Coty, Inc, and include the popular Cool Water for men (1988) and Cool Water Woman (1996). Other well known fragrances include Good Life and Echo.

Recent releases include Silver Shadow (2005), Cool Water Sea, Scents and Sun (2005), Cool Water Game (2006), Davidoff Summer Fizz Collection (2006), Silver Shadow Altitude (2007), Cool Water Wave for women (2007), Happy Summer Collection (2007), Davidoff Adventure (2008), Cool Water Freeze Me (2008), Silver Shadow Private (2008).

Where to buy: at department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
While she was studying art in college, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz got a job working at a Boston perfumery called Essense On Newbury Street. She found her calling, and eventually bought the business and moved to Colorado, where she established Essence Oils and a higher end line, Parfums des Beaux Arts. She has also developed perfumes for other companies, including Eau for Jules & Jane, and Boheme and Cielo for Flora Napa Valley (Cielo was created in collaboration with Christopher Brosius of CB I Hate Perfume).

Recent releases include Hula Hula, Wild Honeysuckle, Sweet Dreams, Silver Sage & Powder (2007), Blond Suede, Sequoia7 & Lumiere (2007), Tamarind/Paprika (2007), St. Valentine and Pretty & Pink (2008), Madonna Lily (2008), Marc, Sophie & Luckyclover (2008).

Perfume house founded by Christopher Brosius and Christopher Gable in 1993. Their first release was Fresh Water.

Their huge "Fragrance Library" now has 100+ scents that range from the evocative (Crust of Bread, Gingerale, Sugar Cookie) to the somewhat odd (Stable, Sushi, Humidor) to the downright bizarre (Turpentine, Earthworm, Funeral Home).

The company was acquired by Freedom Marketing Group in 2002, and Brosius has since left Demeter to launch the new line CB I Hate Perfume.

See reviews for Grass, Greenhouse, Christmas Tree & Condensed Milk, Baby Powder, Ginger Cookie, Redhead in Bed, Between the Sheets and Fiery Curry, Thunderstorm and Cannabis Flower, Gingerale.

Recent releases include Play-Doh (2006), Vanilla Ice Cream, Lavender Martini, Clean Windows & Lychee (2007), Apple Blossom & Cherry Blossom (2007), the Jelly Belly Collection (Fruit Salad, Blueberry Muffin, Sugar & Spice, Wild Blackberry Peach Cobbler, Mango Pineapple Salsa, Hot Fudge Sundae (2007), Crayon (2007), Pure Soap (2007), Hot Kiss Collection (2007), Egg Nog (2007), Necco Sweethearts (2008), Incense (2008), Frozen Margarita (2008), Tootsie Collection (2008), Swimming Pool (2008).

Where to buy: b-glowing, sephora, sesto-senso, ulta or online fragrance discounters. You can also order directly from Demeter (see below).

Des Filles a la Vanille
French niche line of perfumes and home fragrance.

Recent releases include Imma (2006).

Where to buy: at beautyhabit in the US.

Desire in Sunlight
Indie natural perfumes and perfumed chocolates by Isabelle Aurel. See review of Chocolat Jasmin.

Dessert Beauty
Brand established in 2004 by Clean Perfume's Randi Shinder in collaboration with American pop star Jessica Simpson, and specializing in gourmand bath, body & fragrance products. It has since been discontinued.

Niche beauty and fragrance line established in Paris in 1905. Fragrances include 1905, Sheliane and Alizee for women; Aeroplane, Escrimeur and Yachting for men.

Where to buy: at Takashimaya in New York.

Italian jeans & sportwear company.

Under arrangements with Marbert Cosmetics, Diesel launched several fragrances, including Diesel Plus Plus (1997), Diesel Zero Plus (1999) and Green (2002). Those fragrances are all now discontinued.

In early 2006, Diesel signed a new licensing agreement with L'Oreal. The first fragrance under that deal is Diesel Fuel for Life (2007), which was followed by Diesel Cologne Fuel for Life (2008).

Recent releases include Fuel for Life Unlimited (2008).

Where to buy: department stores and online discounters.

Diptyque was established in 1961 by three friends: painter Desmond Knox-Leet, set designer Yves Coueslant, and Christiane Gautrot, who was working in an architecture firm. Their original plan was to design and market original cotton print fabrics, but scented candles, introduced in 1963 as something of a sideline, turned out to be more popular than the fabrics. There are currently over 50 scents in the candle collection.

Diptyque was acquired by Manzanita Capital in 2005. See also: Diptyque (book) by Elisabeth de Feydeau.

Home fragrance reviews include Essence of John Galliano, Lilas, Pomander, Feuille de Lavande, Coing, Roses, Figuier, Pois de Senteur. Recent candle releases include Opopanax Bronze (2006), Epicea, Gingembre & Encens (2007).

In 1968 Diptyque launched their first personal fragrance, L'Eau. See reviews for L'Eau Trois (1975), L'Ombre dans L'Eau (1983), Olene (1988), Philosykos (1996), Oyedo (2000), Tam Dao (2003).

Recent releases include Do Son (2005), Eau de Lierre (2006), L'Eau de L'Eau, L'Eau des Hesperides, L'Eau de Neroli (2008).

Where to buy: Diptyque has boutiques in Boston and San Francisco. The fragrances can also be found at aedes, beautyhabit, fourseasons, and selected Barneys and Neiman Marcus stores. Overseas: senteursdailleurs in Brussels or first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Niche perfume house established by Yvon Mouchel in Dinard, France. Fragrances include Divine, L'Ame Soeur, L'Infante, L'Homme Sage and L'Homme de Coeur.

Recent releases include L'inspiratrice (2006).

Where to buy: luckyscent in the US, first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Dolce & Gabbana
Italian fashion design house founded in 1982 by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

Their first fragrance, Dolce & Gabbana, launched in 1992. Later releases include Light Blue (2001) and Sicily (2003).

Recent releases include Dolce & Gabbana The One (2006), Light Blue Pour Homme (2007), The One For Men (2008), L'Eau The One (2008).

Fragrances were produced under licensing arrangements with Euroitalia until mid-2006, after that, with Procter & Gamble.

Where to buy: at major department stores or online discounters.

Domenico Caraceni
Domenico Carceni was established in Rome in 1913 as a bespoke men's tailor, and became known for creating clothing for various celebrities. Caraceni's descendents still operate as tailors in Milan, but the Domenico Caraceni brand name was purchased by Gianni Campagna in 1998.

Three fragrances, Domenico Caraceni 1913, Ivy League & Loren.

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent; in Germany at first-in-fragrance.

Donna Karan
Fashion designer who started out under Liz Claiborne and Anne Klein, then established her own line in 1985. Fragrances are produced under licensing arrangements with Estee Lauder.

Fragrances include Cashmere Mist (1994), Chaos (1996), Black Cashmere (2002) and Be Delicious (2004).

In 2008, Donna Karan relaunched a collection of "iconic" and discontinued fragrances: Donna Karan, Chaos, Fuel, Black Cashmere and the Donna Karan Essence Collection.

Recent releases include Donna Karan Essence (2005), Red Delicious (2006), DKNY Summer (2006) and Donna Karan Gold (2006), DKNY Summer 2007 (2007), Be Delicious Picnic in the Park (2007), DKNY To Go (2007), DKNY Delicious Night (2007), DKNY Summer 2008 (2008), Charmingly Delicious (2008).

Small niche perfume house of Doris Brugger. There are two fragrances, Goldmund and Narziss.

Where to buy: luckyscent.

Dragonfly Blue
Single note and blended perfume oils. See review for Dragonfly Blue Shea Butter.

Dr Vranjes
Florence-based line of Dr. Paulo Vranjes, the original founder of Antica Farmacista.

Where to buy: beautyhabit, luckyscent, your-cosmetics.

Fashion line established in Milan in 1994 by Dean and Dan Caten, twin brothers from Canada. According to The Independent, "DSquared's brand of tarty chic - American trailer trash with Italian tailoring - has made the label popular with everybody from high street rip-off merchants and footballer's wives to Giorgio Armani, the antithesis of DSquared's camp irreverence, who even attended one of their shows." (3/10/2005)

Fragrances were introduced in 2007 with Dsquared2 He Wood, followed by She Wood in 2008.

British luxury goods house founded by Alfred Dunhill.

Fragrances were introduced in 1934 with Dunhill for men. Other fragrances include Dunhill Edition (1984) and X-Centric (2001).

Recent releases include Dunhill Fresh (2005), Dunhill Pure (2006), Dunhill Pursuit (2006), Dunhill London (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores or online discounters.

Fragrance line founded in 2004 by Kareema and Felice McLendon. As of mid-2006 there were five fragrances: Belle, Eclectic, Ocean, Indulge and Tranquil.

Recent releases include Fig, Fruit Noir and Tropic (2007).

Where to buy: online at beautycafe or lacremebeauty.

Eau d'Italie
Eau d'Italie is the niche perfume line established by the Sersale family, owners of the Positano hotel Le Sirenuse. The first fragrance, Eau d'Italie, was introduced in 2005 (see also review for the matching body products). It was followed by Paestum Rose, Bois d'Ombrie and Sienne l'Hiver (all 2006).

Recent releases include Magnolia Romana (2008).

Where to buy: at aedes, lafcony or luckyscent in the United States, at Liberty in the UK.

Los Angeles boutique founded by Viktoria Fisch, and featuring accessories, jewelry and fragrances. The Ebba "Miss Collection" of scents includes Miss Alex, Miss Marisa, Miss Pilar and more. Recent releases include Miss Marisa Tropical (2005), By Sea and By Sand (2006).

Where to buy: beautyhabit, luckyscent and makeupheaven.

Ecco Bella
Line of natural skin care, cosmetics & fragrances.

E Coudray
French line established in 1822 by Edmond Coudray. Recent releases include Esperys (2007).

Eden Park
French rugby-inspired clothing brand. Fragrances were introduced with Oval in 2006.

Subsequent fragrances include Eau de Sport (2007), Rugby (?).

Ed Hardy
Apparel and accessories by French designer Christian Audigier, inspired by the tattoo designs of Ed Hardy.

The line's first fragrances, Ed Hardy Man by Christian Audigier and Ed Hardy Woman by Christian Audigier, launched in early 2008.

Recent releases include Love & Luck (2008).

Where to buy: department stores & online discounters.

Elizabeth Arden
Cosmetics firm established by Florence Nightingale Graham, who later adopted the name Elizabeth Arden. She opened her first salon with a partner around 1909; later, she started producing face creams and makeup, and the one salon led to a chain of salons across the United States and Europe. Arden was at one time one of the wealthiest women in the US, and she is frequently credited with making color cosmetics "acceptable" in polite society.

Arden died in 1966. The brand was bought by Eli Lilly in 1971, and later sold to Unilever, who in turn sold it to FFI Fragrances in 2000; later, FFI changed their name to Elizabeth Arden Inc. Fragrance brands currently owned by Elizabeth Arden Inc include Halston, Elizabeth Taylor (see below), Britney Spears, Hilary Duff, White Shoulders, Daytona 500, Danielle Steel, Mariah Carey and Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel. In 2006, the company also acquired a number of brands from Riviera, including Badgley Mischka, Alfred Sung, Hummer, Nanette Lepore, Cynthia Rowley, Lulu Guinness and Bob Mackie. In 2008, Elizabeth Arden added the Liz Claiborne brands to their portfolio, including Juicy Couture, Usher, Curve by Liz Claiborne, Lucky Brand, Liz, Bora Bora and Mambo.

The first big fragrance under the Elizabeth Arden brand name was Blue Grass in the 1930s. Later releases include Red Door in 1989 and Green Tea in 1999.

Recent Elizabeth Arden releases include After Five 5th Avenue (2005), Provocative Interlude (2006), Red Door Velvet (2006), Green Tea Revitalize (2006), Mediterranean & Green Tea Tropical (2007), Mediterranean Breeze (2008), Green Tea Lotus (2008).

Elizabeth Taylor
American actress whose fragrances are produced under arrangements with Elizabeth Arden. Her success in the fragrance world inspired scores of celebrities to enter the perfume market.

Taylor's first fragrance, Passion, launched in 1987. Annick Goutal, who had a prior perfume called Passion, sued over the name; originally Taylor was allowed to keep the name but told to remove the fragrance from the high-end stores where the Goutal brand was sold, later, the two companies came to an amicable settlement.

Other fragrances include White Diamonds (1991), the Fragrant Jewel Collection (1993, including Diamonds & Emeralds, Diamonds & Rubies and Diamonds & Sapphires), Black Pearls (1996), Forever Elizabeth (2002), and Gardenia (2003).

San Francisco-based perfumery founded in 1995 by Albert Nichols and Michael Lindsay, and named for Nichols' great-grandmother. As of mid-2006, there were 12 fragrances in the line, including the popular Sweet Tea. See review for Magnolia Bath Gel.

Recent releases include Neroli Chamomile (2006).

Where to buy: online at hamptonct or directly from ElizabethW (see below).

Ellen Tracy
Fashion design house established by Herbert Gallen in 1949. Linda Allard joined the company as designer in 1962; under her design direction Ellen Tracy became one of the most popular sportswear lines in the United States. The brand was acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2002, after which Gallen & Allard both retired.

Fragrances were introduced in 1991 with Ellen Tracy. Other scents include Inspire (2001) and Imagine (2003). Recent releases include Tracy (2006).

Ellie D
Niche perfume line established by Jessica Dunne in 2007. The first fragrance release was Ellie, followed by Ellie Nuit in 2008.

Where to buy: at luckyscent, or at Henri Bendel in New York.

Emanuel Ungaro
French fashion house founded by Emanuel Ungaro, the son of an Italian tailor. He worked for Cristobal Balenciaga before establishing his own line in 1965. The fragrance and fashion businesses are currently owned by Ferragamo.

Fragrances include Diva (1982), Senso (1987), Desnuda (2001) and Apparition (2004).

Recent releases include Apparition Homme (2005), Apparition Sun (2006), Apparition Facets and Apparition Homme Intense (both 2007), Ungaro Ungaro (2007), Apparition Sky (2007).

Emilio Pucci
Italian fashion designer (d. 1992). Pucci was a skiier, and started out in the fashion industry as a skiwear designer. He was best known for his bold, brightly colored print designs, and was often called the "Prince of Prints".

Pucci's fashion business was purchased by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy in 2000. Christian Lacroix was subsequently brought in as Creative Director. Since 2006, Matthew Williamson has been Creative Director.

Fragrances were introduced in 1966 with Vivara, followed by Signor Vivara in 1970. Several others followed, but the fragrance line was eventually discontinued. In 2007, Pucci launched a new version of Vivara.

Ermenegildo Zegna
Italian fashion design house founded in 1910 and known primarily for their menswear. Fragrances include Essenza di Zegna (2003). The license for the Zegna fragrance line is held by L'Oreal.

Recent releases include Z Zegna (2005), Essenza di Zegna Acqua d' Estate 2006, Z Zegna Design by Ducati (2006), Zegna Intenso (2007), Essenza di Zegna Acqua d'Estate 2007, Z Zegna Extreme (2007), Z Zegna Fresh (2008).

German fashion design house established by designer Margaretha Ley (d. 1992) and her husband, Wolfgang Ley, in 1976.

The line's first fragrance, Escada by Margaretha Ley, launched in 1990. Escada Collection debuted in 1997, and is released each year in a limited edition packaged to reflect the latest designs in Escada's couture line (the fragrance itself remains the same). Other launches include Escada Sentiment (2000), Magnetism (2003) and Escada (2005).

A series of yearly limited edition summer "fashion fragrances" was inaugurated in 1993 with Chiffon Sorbet, followed by Summer in Provence (1994), Ocean Blue (1995), Jardin de Soleil (1996), Que Viva Escada (1997), Sunny Frutti (1998), Loving Bouquet (1999), Lily Chic (2000), Tropical Punch (2001), Sexy Graffiti (2002), Ibiza Hippie (2003), Island Kiss (2004), Rockin Rio (2005), Pacific Paradise (2005), Sunset Heat (2006), Moon Sparkle (2007), Ocean Lounge (2008).

Recent fragrances include Into the Blue (2006), S by Escada (2007), Incredible Me (2008).

Where to buy: at sephora, major department stores or online fragrance discounters.

Escentric Molecules
Perfume house founded in 2005 by Berlin-based perfumer Geza Schoen in collaboration with the UK companies ThisCompany and MeCompany. Fragrances include Molecule 01, consisting solely of the aroma chemical Iso E Super, and Escentric 01.

Recent releases include Escentric 02 & Molecule 02 (2008).

Where to buy: aedes, luckyscent, miomia or Barneys. In the UK at Harvey Nichols.

Clothing company established in the late 1960s in San Francisco, and now headquartered in Germany and Hong Kong.

Fragrances were introduced in 2000 with Esprit Scents + Senses, a set of six perfumes. Other fragrances include Life by Esprit (2003), Horizon Man & Horizon Woman (2006), Esprit Connect Him, Her, Us (2007), Night Life by Esprit Man & Woman (2007), Dynamic Life (2008), Esprit Celebration (2008).

Fragrances are produced under arrangements with Coty.

Home and personal fragrance line established in France; now part of the Nippon Kodo Group.

Recent releases include Pivoine, Tonka & Cedre (2006), Sensuelle Russie (2006), Ambre, Collection Couleurs, Secrete Afrique & Passion Bresil (2006-2007), Classic Chypre & Modern Chypre (2007), Angelic Flower, Oriental Flower, Sonata Flower, Cuir, Patchouli & Balade creole (2008).

Where to buy: aedes, fourseasons, your-cosmetics.

Estee Lauder
Cosmetics, skincare and fragrance company founded by Estée Lauder (d. 2004) in 1946, who started with several skincare products created by her chemist uncle. She landed counter space at Saks in 1948, and went on to build an empire. The Estee Lauder company is now publicly traded, but is still run by the Lauder family.

The first fragrance from Estee Lauder was Youth Dew (see reviews of Youth Dew Eau de Parfum and Youth Dew Body Creme), introduced in 1953 as a scented bath oil that could also be used as a perfume. It was followed by Estée in 1968 and Azurée in 1969. Other well known fragrances include Private Collection (1973), Cinnabar (1978), White Linen (1978), Beautiful (1985), Pleasures (1995) and Beyond Paradise (2003).

In 2005, Estee Lauder announced that Tom Ford had signed on to create new products under the Estee Lauder brand, and to launch his own Tom Ford brand in late 2006. Fragrances under Tom Ford's direction under the Estee Lauder name include Youth Dew Amber Nude (2005) and Azuree body oil (2006). Tom Ford Black Orchid (2006) was the first fragrance under his own name. The 2007 Tom Ford Estee Lauder Collection includes Azuree Body Oil & Azuree Soleil Eau Fraiche Skinscent.

Other recent fragrance releases from Estee Lauder include Pleasures Intense for men (2005), Pure White Linen (2006), Beyond Paradise Blue (2006), Beautiful Love (2007), Emerald Dream (2007), Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia (2007), Pleasures Delight (2007), Pure White Linen Light Breeze (2008), Bali Dream (2008), Bronze Goddess (2008), Summer Fun Collection 2008 (2008), Sensuous (2008).

In addition to products marketed under the Estee Lauder brand name, the company also owns and/or markets a variety of other cosmetic & fragrance brand names including Aramis, Aveda, Bobbi Brown, Clinique, Donna Karan, Jo Malone, MAC, Michael Kors, Missoni, Origins, Prescriptives, Sean John Fragrances and Tommy Hilfiger.

Where to buy: from the website (see below), or at major department stores or online fragrance discounters.

Etat Libre d'Orange
French niche line introduced in 2006 with six unisex fragrances: Jasmin et Cigarette, Encens & Bubblegum, Vraie Blonde, Secretions Magnifiques, Je Sui Un Homme and Putain des Palaces. Five more followed shortly after: Eloge du Traitre, Antiheros, Rien, Divin'Infant and Nombril Immense.

Recent releases include Vierges & Toreros and Don't Get Me Wrong Baby (2007), Delicious Closet Queen & Charogne (2007), Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection, Noel au Balcon (2007), Tom of Finland (2008), Bendelirious (2008).

Where to buy: at Henri Bendel in New York, at Holt Renfrew in Canada, at first-in-fragrance in Germany, at lessenteurs ar harveynichols in London.

Italian manufacturer of fabrics, fashions, home furnishings and fragrances. The firm was founded in 1968 by Gimmo Etro and is still family-owned.

Fragrances include Shaal Nur, Messe de Minuit, Lemon Sorbet and Palais Jamais.

Recent releases include Mahogany (2004), Anice (2004) and Dianthus (2006).

Where to buy: aedes, or neimanmarcus in the US; escentual in the UK, theperfumeshoppe in Canada, senteursdailleurs in Brussels.

Everlast was established in the Bronx in 1910 as a swimwear manufacturer; today, they are best known for boxing apparel.

Fragrances were introduced in 2006 with Everlast Original 1910. Two subsequent releases, Everlast Uppercut and Everlast Cactus Shot (both 2006), were launched overseas but not in the United States.

Youth-oriented Italian fashion line launched in 1996 by clothing manufacturer Ittierre.

Fragrances were introduced in 2004 with J'S Exte Woman. Recent fragrance launches include J'S Exte Man (2006), J'S Exte Pop (2007).