Saturday, November 25, 2006

Perfume houses A-B

In one version of the story, the recipe for 4711 was developed in 1792 by a Carthusian monk and then given to Wilhelm Mülhens as a wedding present. In another version, Mülhens essentially piggybacked on the already popular Eau de Cologne developed by Johann Maria Farina, and was eventually forced to rename his product. Either way, the Mülhens family continued to produce their family recipe into the 1990s, when the firm was purchased by Wella; Wella later became part of Procter & Gamble. In 2006, Procter & Gamble sold the 4711 business to Mäurer & Wirtz.

Flankers include 4711 Ice Cool.


Niche perfume house established in 2006 with four fragrances: Corazon, Beleza, Desejo and Cobice. A fifth fragrance, Inveja, followed.

Where to buy: online at beautycafe or lacremebeauty, also sold at Henri Bendel in New York. A complete list of retailers is on their website.

Niche perfume house established by absinthe producers Liquoristerie de Provence, and also known as Le Parfum d'Interdits. Their debut fragrance was Absolument Absinthe (2006).

Recent launches include Absolument Homme (2007)

Where to buy: at apothia or luckyscent in the US.

Acca Kappa
A line from northern Italy specializing in high end bath & body products, including an extensive selection of fragranced soaps. They were founded in 1869 by Hermann Krull; today, the company is run by his grand-daughter, Elisa Gera. Popular fragrances include White Moss and Calycanthus.

Where to buy: Acca Kappa has a boutique in the Venetian hotel in Las Vegas. The products are also sold in other boutiques in the US and Europe.

Acqua di Biella
A perfumery established in 1871 at Biella, Italy. As of early 2007, there were four fragrances: no. 1, Baraja, Janca and Bursch.

Recent releases include Ca' Luna (2008?), Cashmere Twill (2008).

Where to buy: online at aedes or luckyscent, or at Takashimaya in New York. In Germany, try first-in-fragrance.

Acqua di Parma
Best known for their signature cologne (Colonia) first introduced in 1916, the Italian line Acqua di Parma also produces several other fragrances and a plethora of bath, body and home fragrance products. A new shaving line was introduced in late 2005.

Fragrances include Colonia Assoluta, Profumo and Iris Nobile. An Eau de Parfum version of Iris Nobile launched in 2006.

Recent fragrance releases include Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa (2007), Profumi di Acqua di Parma (2008, new version of a 1930 fragrance).

An offshoot, Blu Mediterraneo, was established in 1999, and also produces fragrances and body products. In 2005, the Blu Mediterraneo line was streamlined and relaunched. Current fragrances include Arancia di Capri (orange), Cipresso di Toscana (cypress), Mandorlo di Sicilia (almond), Fico di Amalfi (fig) and Mirto di Panarea (myrtle).

Acqua di Parma's perfume business is owned by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH).

Where to buy: online at bigelowchemists, spacenk in the US, escentual in the UK, senteursdailleurs in Brussels, first-in-fragrance in Germany. Acqua di Parma is also in selected Neiman Marcus and Barneys department stores, and can be found in a number of smaller boutiques.

Acqua di Portofino
Italian niche line established by Francesca Casiraghi in the early 2000s with their eponymous unisex fragrance, Acqua di Portofino, followed by Acqua di Portofino Donna.

One of the largests sports brands in the world. The Adidas fragrances, which apparently do a huge global business, are produced under licensing arrangements with Coty. Not all of the fragrances are sold in the United States.

Recent releases include Originals Pour Homme (2005), Originals Pour Femme and Victory League (2006), Tropical Passion (2006), Pure Lightness (2007), Pure Energy (2007), Fair Play (2008), Energy Game, Passion Game (2008), Natural Vitality (2008)

Australian botanical skincare company founded by Dennis Paphitis in 1987.

The first fragrance was Marrakech (2005), followed by Mystra (2006).

Where to buy: in the UK, try Liberty of London; in France, the Colette boutique. The skincare line is available in the US, but to my knowledge, the fragrances are not.

The perfume house of Mandy Aftel, one of the early adherents of artisanal natural perfumery and the original founder of the Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild. The Aftelier website sells a number of ready-made fragrances as well as a selection of essential oils. Aftel is also the author of several books on perfumery, including Essence & Alchemy and Scents & Sensibility. See reviews of Aftelier Cepes & Tuberose and Clean Well Hand Wash Ginger Bergamot.

Recent releases include Tango and Orchid (2006), Fir Solid Perfume (2007), Cognac (2007), Parfum Prive & Muse (2007), Cassis (2008).

Where to buy: A list of retail locations is available on the website (see below).

Paris-based fragrance consulting firm established by Benoit Blanchard. The firm launched their first fragrances (Tedallal Man, Tedallal Woman, Muthhela Man, Muthhela Woman) in the 2000s under the line Arabia Felix (see website below).

Where to buy: the Arabia Felix line is distributed in France; a list of shops is available on the website.

The perfumery of fashion designer Agatha Brown, now based in Aruba. The range includes Agatha, Mystery of Agatha, Conquest, Imperial Jade for women and Imperial Jade for men.

Recent releases include Hearts & Flowers (2007?).

Agatha Paris
French costume jewelry line with several fragrances.

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada
Spanish fashion designer known for her quirky, colorful clothing style. Fragrances include Flor, Corazon, Agua (2003), Imagina (2005), Beso (2007).

Agent Provocateur
A luxury lingerie line established in the UK in 1994 by Joseph Corre and Serena Rees. They introduced their first fragrance, Agent Provocateur, in 2000, and followed with a lighter version, Eau Emotionnelle, in 2006.

Other recent releases include Maitresse (2006), Strip (2007).

Where to buy: A list of Agent Provocateur boutiques can be found on the company website (see below). The fragrances are also available online at abeautifullife,, kitson, nellbutler, spacenk and at several fragrance discounters.

Agraria is a San Francisco-based company that specializes in home fragrance products, including potpourri. There are three fragrances available in Eau de Cologne: Bitter Orange, Balsam and Lemon Verbena.

Line of all-natural perfumes, ready-made and custom. Recent releases include Citron Regenerez (2006).

Where to buy: at Henri Bendel's in New York City, at their boutique in Carmel, California, or online (see below).

Alessandro Dell'Acqua
Italian fashion design house established in 1996, and purchased by the Redwall Group in 2003.

Dell'Acqua's first scent, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, was launched in 2001, and was followed by a men's version in 2003. Woman in Rose was launched in 2005. The fragrances were developed under licensing arrangements with Euroitalia.

Alexander McQueen
English fashion designer who opened his first studio in 1992. His first fragrance, Kingdom, launched in 2003. MyQueen followed in 2005, and was released in a new bottle in Enchanted Anniversary in 2006.

Recent releases include MyQueen Light Mist (2007).

Alexander McQueen's perfume line is under the ownership of the Gucci Group.

Where to buy: at major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters.

Alfred Sung
Fashion designer whose line of fragrances was launched in 1986 with Alfred Sung. Subsequent releases include Sung Homme (1989), Forever (1994), Pure (1997), Shi (2000), Hei (2002), Sha (2003), and Paradise (2003, women's and men's versions).

Recent releases include Jewel (2005), Bijou (2006) and Joya (2006).

Where to buy: at major department stores or at the online fragrance discounters.

Alvarez Gomez
Madrid-based perfume house best known for their Agua de Colonia Concentrada, a citrus-based classic cologne.

Where to buy: in the US at Delicias de Espana.

American Beauty
A division of Estee Lauder sold exclusively at Kohl's department stores. Their first fragrance, Wonderful, was introduced in 2005, and was followed by Wonderful Indulgence in 2006.

Recent releases include Beloved (2008).

Where to buy: Kohls

High end perfume house established in Oman in 1983 by the Sultan of Oman. Amouage uses the traditional materials of Middle Eastern perfumery, such as frankincense and myrrh, but the perfumes are developed by noses from the major fragrance & flavor companies. Their first fragrance, Amouage (now known as Amouage Gold), was developed by renowned nose Guy Robert. The website (see below) provides a complete list of their current offerings, and includes fragrance pyramids for each scent along with a listing of retailers. See reviews for Amouage Gold for men and Ubar.

Recent releases include Asana (2005, limited edition), Arcus (2005), Cirrus (2006), Reflection Man & Reflection Woman (2007), Jubilation 25 for women & Jubilation XXV for men (2007), Homage (2008), Lyric (2008).

Where to buy: online at aedes, fourseasons, luckyscent or parfumsraffy. In London, try Harrods or lessenteurs; in Canada, theperfumeshoppe, in Germany, first-in-fragrance,

German company with one perfume, All That Matters.

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent.

Andre Gas
French jeweller whose first fragrance, Ensolleile Moi, launched in 2006.

Where to buy: at beautyhabit.

Angela Flanders
Small British perfume house established by Angela Flanders in the 1980s.

Angel Schlesser

Spanish fashion designer known for his simple but elegant designs.

Fragrances include Angel Schlesser Femme (2000), Angel Schlesser Homme (2002), Essential for women (2004), Essential for men (2006), Eau de Gingembre (2007).

Where to buy: in the US, easily found at the online fragrance discounters.

Anna Sui
Fashion designer; her first boutique opened in Soho in 1992. Her fragrance line, produced under arrangements with Wella, debuted in 1999 with her signature fragrance, Anna Sui, which was followed by Sui Dreams, Sui Love and Dolly Girl.

Recent releases include Secret Wish (2005), Dolly Girl on the Beach (2006), Magic Romance (2006), Dolly Girl Bonjour L'Amour (2007), Flight of Fancy (2007), Dolly Girl Lil' Starlet (2008), Night of Fancy (2008).

Where to buy: major department stores, or online at victoriassecret.

Japanese cosmetics, skincare & fragrance company founded in 1988. Fragrances include Annayake for her and Annayake for him (2000).

Recent releases include Matsuri (2006), Tomo (2007).

Anne Pliska
One perfume, Anné Pliska, which is something of a cult favorite.

Where to buy: online at luckyscent, or at selected Nordstrom stores note: Nordstrom no longer carries the line. Samples can be ordered directly from the brand's website, see below.

Annick Goutal
Annick Goutal was a concert pianist and fashion model. She later worked with perfumers at Robertet to develop a fragrance for a face cream, and she found her calling; by 1980, she was ready to launch her own fragrance line. The company was acquired by the Taittinger Group in the mid 1980s; Taittinger has since been acquired by Starwood Capital.

Annick Goutal passed away in 1999. Since that time, her daughter Camille has continued to develop new fragrances with perfumer Isabelle Doyen. There are currently some 30-odd fragrances in the line, as well as bath and body products, a skincare line and home fragrances (see review for Petite Cherie candle).

Fragrances include Petite Cherie, Passion, Duel and Sables. See reviews for Folavril (1981), Eau de Camille (1983) & Eau de Charlotte (1982), Eau de Sud (1995) & Eau d'Hadrien (1981), Le Chevrefeuille (2002), Le Jasmin (2004), Vanille Exquise (2004)

Recent releases include Mandragore (2005), Songes (2005), Les Orientalistes ~ Ambre Fetiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant (2007), Musc Nomade (2008).

See also: shopping report for the Annick Goutal boutique on Motcomb St. in London.

Where to buy: Annick Goutal fragrances are carried at aedes (including many of the limited edition bottles),, and by selected Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Saks stores. In the UK, they are available online at escentual.

Ann Taylor
Women's clothing chain. The first store was opened in 1954; today, there are over 800 stores, including those operated under the names Ann Taylor Loft and Ann Taylor Factory.

Fragrances were introduced in 1994 with Destination.

Recent releases include Possibilities (2007).

Best known for their home fragrances. Three personal fragrances were introduced in 2006, including Citrus Sorbet, White Tuberose and Fig & Vetiver.

Where to buy: online at aedes and beautyhabit.

Antica Farmacista
Antica Farmacista was established in Italy in the early 1980s, and is currently owned by two Americans. They have a line of personal and home fragrances, including the popular Vaniglia, Mandarino e Bourbon.

See also, reviews for: Acqua Room & Linen Spray, Peonia Romantico fragrance diffuser.

Where to buy: Online at aedes, b-glowing, beautyhabit, beautyintuition and your-cosmetics. A list of retailers is also available on the Antica Farmacista website.

Antonia's Flowers

Perfume line founded by Antonia Bellanca, who established a florist's shop in East Hampton in 1981 and eventually decided she wanted to "capture the scent of her shop in a bottle". The first fragrance, Antonia's Flowers, appeared in 1984; the line now also includes Floret and Tiempe Passate.

Recent releases include Sogni del Mare (2007).

Where to buy: selected Neiman Marcus stores, or at the Antonia's Flowers website. In the UK, try spacenk.

Antonio Banderas
Spanish actor whose fragrance line is produced under arrangements with Puig Beauty.

Recent releases include Spirit for women (2005), Antonio (2006), Blue Seduction for Men (2007), Blue Seduction for Women (2008).

Where to buy: drugstores or mass market chain stores.

Anya's Garden
All natural perfume house established in 2006 by Anya McCoy, the founder of and president of the Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild. Three fragrances, Riverside, Pan and Fairchild, were introduced in 2006.

Recent releases include Kaffir & Temple (2007).

Apothia is a beauty boutique owned by Ron Robinson. Their first fragrance, the cult favorite IF, was launched in 2001, and was followed by Velvet Rope in 2005 and L Eau de Parfum in 2006.
Where to buy: at the website, or at one of the 2 boutiques in Los Angeles. In London, try Harvey Nichols.

Aquolina is an offshoot of the Italian cosmetics company Selectiva. They have a line of yogurt-based bath & body products called Aquolina Yogurt and a skincare line for teens called Aquolina Viso; other offshoots include hair care, lip gloss and home fragrance products.

They introduced their first perfume, the very popular Pink Sugar, in 2003. Chocolovers and Blue Sugar for men were launched in 2006.

Where to buy: online at nordstrom or sephora, and at selected online fragrance discounters.

Established by Estee Lauder in 1964 (it was EL's first offshoot) as a prestige men's grooming and fragrance line. The Aramis division is also the parent company of Tommy Hilfiger fragrances.

Well-known fragrances include Aramis (1964), Devin (1978), New West (1988) and Havana (1994). In 2003, Aramis introduced Aramis Life, a fragrance "inspired by tennis legend Andre Agassi"; in 2006, his wife Steffi Graf joined him in fronting Aramis Always.

Recent releases include Aramis Classic Reserve (2008).

Where to buy: at selected drug stores and department stores, or online at the various fragrance discounters.

Archipelago Botanicals
Los Angeles based company founded in 1996 and best known for their bath & body products and home fragrances. See review for Monogram Series Soy Candles: Key Lime & Neroli / Sweet Pea & Jasmine.

Personal fragrances were introduced in 2008 with Pomegranate and Grapefruit.

Armand Basi
Spanish fashion design house founded in 1986.

Fragrances include Armand Basi Femme & Homme (1999), Basi Femme & Basi Homme (2001). Recent releases include Lovely Blossom (2007).

Aroma M
Perfume line established in 1995 by Maria McElroy and Shinya Yokota. The Japan-inspired line of Geisha fragrances includes Geisha Violet, Geisha Green, Geisha Rouge, Geisha Noire, Geisha Blue, Geisha Pink, Geisha Blanche, Geisha O-cha, Geisha Nobara-cha and Geisha Hana-cha.

Recent releases include Geisha Marron (2006), Geisha Noire Eau de Parfum (2007).

Where to buy: luckyscent, miomia, theposhpeasant; a complete list of retailers is available on the Aroma M website.

Artemisia Natural Perfume
Indie house established in 2004 by Lisa Fong and specializing in 100% natural perfumes.

Recent releases include Blue Lotus Tabac & Edenwood (2007).

Art of Perfumery
Niche perfumery founded in Grasse in 2006 by Peter Milsted of the custom fragrance site Perfume Lab. You can read a description of the initial 7 fragrances here; also see review of no. 6, Spice Smoked Wood.

Where to buy: Sold through the Art of Perfumery website or at sündhaft in Germany.

The original Aspen fragrance for men was launched in 1989. The brand is now owned by Coty and has two fragrances for men, Aspen and Aspen Discovery, and one for women, Aspen Sensation.

Where to buy: drugstores and mass market chain stores, or at online fragrance discounters.

British luxury goods house established in 1871. One unisex fragrance, Asprey Purple Water, introduced in 2004.

Attar Bazaar
Attar perfume oils.

French niche line established in 1994 by Catherine Fructus and specializing in perfumes, herbal products and home fragrances.

See reviews for Esprit de Chine, Esprit de Cuir & Esprit de Chypre.

Where to buy: online at luckyscent in the US, or from the website (see below) in France.

Auric Blends
Perfume oils, including Egyptian Goddess.

Ava Luxe
Handcrafted perfumes by California-based perfumer Serena Ava Franco. In addition to ready-made perfumes, Ava Luxe has custom perfume services and a line of vintage "dupes".

See review for Ava Luxe Ultra Rich Body Lotion.

Recent releases include Madame X (2006), Shisa (2007), No. 23 (2007), Honey, Sin & Madeline (2007), Hong Kong Garden (2008), Sacred (2008).

Note: In November 2007, the Ava Luxe perfume business went on hiatus. As of early 2008, the perfumes were being sold through the Ava Luxe Etsy store.

Line of hair care, body and skin products founded in 1978, and now owned by Estee Lauder. See review for Aveda Shampure candle.

Recent fragrance releases include Rose Attar Pure Fume Absolute (2007, limited edition), Yatra Pure Fume (2007).

Where to buy: at Aveda salons and boutiques (see link below).

Founded as the California Perfume Company in 1886; the company took the name Avon in 1939. For most of its history, Avon relied on direct or "door-to-door" sales, but recently has begun selling its products online, and in some countries, in retail stores. Their first product was the "Little Dot Perfume Set" with five fragrances: Violet, White Rose, Heliotrope, Lily-of-the-Valley, and Hyacinth,

Avon also owns Mark, a label geared towards younger women.

Recent fragrance releases include Today.Tomorrow.Always, Extraordinary (2005), Crystal Aura (2006) and Derek Jeter Driven (2006), Far Away Paradise (2007), Island Vibe (2007), Surreal Garden (2007), Imari Seduction, Derek Jeter Driven Black (2007), Christian Lacroix Rouge & Noir (2007), Wish of Peace, Wish of Love, Wish of Happiness (2008), Today Tomorrow Always In Love (2008), Cynthia Rowley Flower & Petal (2008), True Glow (2008), U by Ungaro (2008), Bond Girl 007 (2008), Tahitian Holiday (2008), Make Me Smile, Make Me Wonder, Fire Me Up (2008), Patrick Dempsey Unscripted (2008).

Where to buy: from an Avon representative or the company website.

Ayala Moriel Parfums
Line of all-natural perfumes first established in 2001 as Quinta Essentia. Perfumer Ayala Sender has over 70 ready-made perfumes available, and a custom perfume service is available on request.

Recent releases include Sabotage, Yasmin & Zohar (2006), Kinmokusei (2006), Roses et Chocolat (2007), Coralle (2007), Tirzah (2007), Immortelle l'Amour (2007), Gigi, Gaucho & Incarnation (2008), Vetiver Racinettes (2008).

Where to buy: in Canada at, or through the website (see below)

Fashion design house established by Louis Azzaro in Paris in 1962. Azzaro passed away in 2003; the artistic director as of early 2008 was Vanessa Seward.

Their first fragrance, Azzaro Couture, was introduced in 1975; recent releases include Pink Tonic (2006), Bright Visit (2006), Jet Lag (2006), Blue Charm (2006), Azzaro Now Women and Azzaro Now Men (2007), Chrome Legend (2007), Cockpit (2008), Azzaro Couture 2008 (2008).

Where to buy: selected department stores, and also readily found online at the various fragrance discounters.

Baby Phat
Apparel and beauty line of Kimora Lee Simmons, former fashion model and spouse of hip hop mogul Russell Simmons (see also: Phat Farm). The fragrances are created under licensing arrangements with Coty.

Fragrances include Baby Phat Goddess (2005), Golden Goddess (2006), Fabulosity (2008), Seductive Goddess (2008).

Where to buy: department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Badgley Mischka
US-based fashion house founded by Mark Badgley and James Mischka in 1988. The line has expanded into something of a lifestyle brand, but is still "most famous for their exquisitely wrought dresses with elaborate handiwork, which have an Old World elegance inspired by early Hollywood movies" (Miami Herald, 3/13/2007). The label was acquired by Escada in 1992 and is currently owned by The Iconix Group (formerly Candie's). The fragrance license is held by Elizabeth Arden.

Fragrances were introduced in 2006 with Badgley Mischka, followed by Fleurs de Nuit in 2007.

Fashion house established in Spain by Cristobal Balenciaga (d. 1972) in 1918; the flagship store in Paris opened in 1937. Balenciaga is often called the most important designer of the 20th century, and during his lifetime was known as the "couturier of couturiers". The house of Balenciaga is currently owned by the Gucci Group, and the Creative Director is designer Nicolas Ghesquière.

Fragrances were introduced in 1946 with Le Dix. Subsequent releases include Quadrille (1955), Ho Hang (1971), Cialenga (1973), Prelude (1982), Rumba (1988), Pour Homme (1990), Talisman (1994) and Cristobal (1998).

Where to buy: department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Fashion design house founded by Pierre Balmain in Paris in 1945; the perfume business was launched the following year. According to Balmain, "As regards elegance, perfume is more important than accessories, jewels, and shoes" (Barille's Book of Perfume, p. 89). Balmain passed away in 1982. The company filed for bankruptcy protection in 2004, and is currently attempting a comeback under Creative Director Christophe Decarnin.

The early fragrances were created in the 1940s and 1950s by perfumer Germaine Cellier (Vent Vert, Jolie Madame, Madame Balmain & Monsieur Balmain); other well-known fragrances include Miss Balmain (1967) and Ivoire (1980).

Recent releases include Eau d'Amazonie (2005), La Mome (2007), Ambre Gris (2008).

Where to buy: selected department stores, and also readily found online at the various fragrance discounters.

Banana Republic
Casual clothing chain owned by Gap, Inc. Fragrances include Classic (1995), M (1995), W (1995), Modern (1997), BR (2002).

In 2006, Banana Republic launched the Discover Collection with five new fragrances: Alabaster, Jade, Rosewood, Slate & Black Walnut. Malachite & Cordovan followed in 2007.

Recent fragrance releases include Classic Limited Edition (2008).

Barbara Bui
Franco-Vietnamese fashion designer based in Paris. One fragrance, Barbara Bui Le Parfum, introduced in 2004 (and later discontinued).

Bath & Body Works
American chain established in 1990 and owned by The Limited. Bath & Body Works originally sold reasonably priced store-brand fragrances and bath & body products; the stores now carry a wide variety of niche brands and have a more upscale atmosphere. There are currently over 1500 stores in the US.

In 2004, Bath & Body Works also opened its first store under the CO Bigelow name; this spinoff chain is expected to grow over the next few years. The CO Bigelow stores are even more upscale, and carry a more expensive variety of niche fragrances.

See reviews for Le Couvent de Minimes Verbena & Lemon, Midnight Pomegranate Body Lotion & Shower Gel, Aromatherapy Black Currant Vanilla line.

Recent releases include Ile de Tahiti Coconut Vanille (2007), Midnight Pomegranate, Ile de Tahiti Tiare Flower & Fei Banana (2007), Wild Honeysuckle (2007), Moonlight Path & Sweet Pea Eau de Parfum (2007), Sparkling Peach (2007), Fresh Pineapple (2007), Sea Island Cotton, Freshwater Cucumber & Dancing Waters (2007), Irresistible Apple (2007), Blackberry Amber (2007), Velvet Tuberose (2007), Japanese Cherry Blossom Eau de Parfum (2007), Chocolate Amber (2007), Enchanted Orchid (2008), Hello Sugar! (2008), Blushing Cherry Blossom (2008), Rainkissed Leaves (2008), Black Amethyst (2008).

Beauty of Bathing
Upscale bath & body offshoot of The Thymes. Their first collection was Coco Monoi, introduced in 2008.

Becker Eshaya
Perfume house founded by Kristen Becker and John Eshaya.

Fragrances were introduced in 2005 with Be. Golden Amber followed in 2007.

Where to buy: beautyhabit or de-frazzle.

Bella Bellissima
Uk-based niche line that debuted in 2007 with 4 fragrances: Perfect Day, Perfect Night, Perfect Man, Perfect Man Alternative.

Where to buy: in the UK at major department stores, in the US at Henri Bendel.

Cosmetics & skincare firm. Fragrances were introduced in 2003 with Maybe Baby.

Recent releases include B Spot (2008).

Clothing brand established in Italy in 1965. Fragrances were introduced in 1987 with Colors of Benetton; other well known scents include Tribu (1993).

Recent releases include Cumbia Colors (2005), United Colors of Benetton Woman, Man, Unisex (2006), Puresport (2007), B.United Jeans (2007), White Night (2008), Energy (2008), Essence of United Colors of Benetton (2008).

Perfume house established in Toulouse in 1902, and best known for their Violettes de Toulouse (1936).

Where to buy: online at beautycafe.

Berkeley Square Cosmetics
UK-based "range of toiletries inspired by the stylish, chic and sophisticated elegance of the roaring twenties"; as of early 2008, the scents included Fig & Cherry, Lavender, Lime & Clarysage, White Tea and Rose Petal.

Betsey Johnson
American fashion designer who opened her first boutique in 1969. Her first scent, Betsey Johnson, launched in 1996, and was followed by Ultra (1998). Both were produced in-house rather than under licensing arrangements.

Her first widely distributed fragrance, also called Betsey Johnson, debuted in 2006 under arrangements with Colorful Licenses. A men's fragrance is rumored to be in the works.

Where to buy: department stores and online discounters.

Biehl Parfumkunstwerke
Hamburg-based niche perfume house established in 2006 by Thorstein Biehl, and styled as a "free space for perfume artists who can present their extraordinary creations to an audience". All of the fragrances are limited edition. See review for eo01.

Where to buy: online at luckyscent in the US, first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Menswear designer Bijan Pakzad founded his business in Beverly Hills in 1976. Fragrances were introduced in 1987 with Bijan for men and Bijan for women. Subsequent releases include Bijan With A Twist for women (2000), Bijan With A Twist for men (2001), Bijan Wicked Man & Wicked Woman (2005).

Recent releases include Bijan Black for women and Bijan Black for men (2006), Bijan Nude for women & Bijan Nude for men (2007).

Bill Blass

American fashion house of William Blass, who started as a designer in 1946 and established his own line in 1970. He sold the company and retired in 1999, and passed away in 2002.

Fragrances were introduced in 1970 with Bill Blass For Men. Bill Blass for women followed in 1978. Later releases include Basic Black, Nude and Hot (all 1990) and Amazing (1999).

Recent releases include The Fragrance From Bill Blass (2007), Bill Blass Couture 1, 3, 6 & 7 (2008).

Where to buy: at department stores or online fragrance discounters.

"Dermobiotic" spa & skincare line currently owned by L'Oreal. Three fragrance body sprays: Eau d'Energie, Eau Vitaminee & Eau Pure.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
Perfume oil "blends with a dark, romantic Gothic tone".

B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful
Founded by the owners of Lush in 2003 as a "sister company". The focus is on color cosmetics, bath & body and fragrance; the fragrances were developed by Lush co-founder Mark Constantine.

In 2006, there were 10 fragrances including 1000 Kisses Deep, Dear John, Keep It Fluffy and Ladyboy.

Recent releases include Breath of God, Inhale & Exhale (2007).

Where to buy: 3 shops in the UK or buy online; see website (below) for details.

Bobbi Brown
Makeup artist who established her own line of cosmetics in 1991. The company was bought by Estee Lauder in 1995. Bobbi Brown fragrances include Bobbi (1998), Beach (2002) and Bath (2006).

Recent releases include Almost Bare (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores, or online from gloss.

Body Time
Purveyor of bath and body products; their line includes a number of essential and perfume oils, and the popular fragrance China Rain. Body Time also sells a "perfume and cologne base", or diluent, which can be blended with perfume or essential oils to create Eau de Parfum or Eau de Toilette.

See reviews of Green Fig and Egyptian Musk.

Ski and sportswear company established in Germany by Olympic skier and filmmaker Willy Bogner in 1932, and now run by his son, Willy Bogner Jr. Fragrances include Bogner Snow, Bogner High Speed, Bogner Wood, and Bogner Man.

Where to buy: the fragrances are primarily marketed in Germany and other European countries, but can sometimes be found at the online fragrance discounters in the US.

Bois 1920
Italian niche line established in 2005 by Enzo Galardi and named for a shop his grandfather owned in Florence in the 1920s.

Where to buy: at luckyscent in the US, at first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Bond no. 9
Bond no. 9 was established as a niche perfume house in New York in 2003 by Laurice Rahme. The line currently includes some 25+ fragrances, most of which are named after (and inspired by) New York City neighborhoods.

Recent releases include Scent of Peace (2006), Fire Island (2006) West Side (2006), Bryant Park (2007), Coney Island (2007), Saks Fifth Avenue For Him & For Her (2007), Andy Warhol Silver Factory (2007), Andy Warhol Union Square (2008), Andy Warhol Lexington Avenue (2008).

Bodies by Bond, a line of bath & body products, was introduced in 2007. See review for the 24/7 Body Silk.

Where to buy: online at beautyandscents, beautycafe, fragrancesandmore, hamptonct; at Saks department stores, and at the Bond no. 9 boutiques in New York City or through their website (see below). In Germany, try first-in-fragrance; in the UK, Harvey Nichols or Harrods London.

BorsariPerfume house established in 1870 in Parma, Italy, by barber Lodovico Borsari. Their first (and best-known) fragrance was Violetta di Parma; see also brief review of Acqua della Macchia Mediterranea.

Where to buy: online at b-glowing, beautyintuition, hamptonct and luckyscent.

French jewelry firm established by Frédéric Boucheron in 1858. As of early 2008, the Boucheron fragrance license was held by L'Oreal.

Their first fragrance, Boucheron, was introduced in 1988. Other well known fragrances include Boucheron Pour Homme, Jaipur & Jaipur Saphir, Initial and Trouble.

Recent releases include Trouble Eau Legere (2006), Jaipur Homme Fraicheur (2006), Miss Boucheron (2007), B de Boucheron (2008).

See also review for Boucheron Trouble Dry Oil Spray.

Where to buy: at major department stores, or online at the various fragrance discounters.

Bourbon French
A small perfume house located in the French Quarter of New Orleans; it was originally established in 1843 as the Doussan French Perfumery. The Bourbon French line now includes the fragrances formerly sold under the name Lagniappe Oaks.

Recent releases include La Vie Nouvelle (2007).

BrandySmall line with one perfume, Brandy, created by owner Patricia Namm.

Where to buy: online at aedes, beautycafe, beautyhabit, hamptonct, luckyscent.

Britney Spears
American pop star whose fragrance line is produced under licensing arrangements with Elizabeth Arden. Her first fragrance, Curious, appeared in 2004 and was followed by Fantasy (2005) and In Control Curious (2006).

Recent releases include Britney Spears Midnight Fantasy (2007), Britney Spears Believe (2007), Curious ♥ Heart (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores and mass market chains, sephora, or online from various fragrance discounters.

Bruno Acampora
Italian line of perfume oils. See review for Bruno Acampora Jasmin.

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent.

Bruno Banani
German company established in 1993 as a maker of upscale men's underwear; the company has since expanded into watches, swimwear, and fragrance (under arrangements with Procter & Gamble). The company motto is "not for everybody".

Fragrances were introduced in with 2000 with Bruno Banani Man, followed the next year by Bruno Banani Woman.

Subsequent launches include Time to Play Man & Time to Play Woman (2002), Woman Scent From Hell & Scent From Heaven for men (2003), Pure Man (2005), Pure Woman (2007), Magic Man (2008).

Clothing line established in the UK in 1856 by Thomas Burberry. Burberry invented gabardine fabric; today, the company is best known for their trench coats and the famous Burberry check pattern, which adorns everything from umbrellas to dog leashes. The current design director is Christopher Bailey; the fragrance business is currently licensed to Inter Parfums.

The first fragrance, Burberry for men, debuted in 1981. Other well-known scents include Touch and Weekend. Brit, introduced in 2003, was a huge success, and was followed by Brit Red, Brit Gold, Brit for men and Brit Anniversary Edition.

Recent fragrance releases include Burberry London (2006), Burberry London for men (2006), Burberry Summer (2007), Burberry Brit Sheer (2007), Burberry The Beat (2008), Burberry London Special Edition (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores, or online at the various fragrance discounters.

Roman jewelry line founded by Greek immigrant Sotirios Voulgaris in 1884. The 'v' in the name is simply the Roman rendering of the letter 'u', so the name is really "Bulgari".

Bvlgari's first fragrance was 1992's Eau Parfumee au Thé Vert; it was followed by Pour Femme (1994, relaunched in 2006 with Kate Moss as spokesmodel), Pour Homme, Black (1998), Blv (2000), Blv Pour Homme (2001), Thé Blanc (2003) and Omnia (2003) among others.

Recent releases include Aqva Pour Homme (2005), Omnia Crystalline (2005), Rose Essentielle & Voile de Jasmin (2005), Thé Rouge (2005), Pour Homme Soir (2006), Omnia Amethyste (2007), Rose Essentielle Eau de Toilette (2007), Aqva Pour Homme Marine (2008), Jasmin Noir (2008)

Where to buy: at major department stores, or online at the various fragrance discounters.

Italian fashion brand established in 1973; the early designs were by Gianni Versace. The Byblos Blu line is geared towards younger consumers.

Recent releases include Byblos Woman (2006), Byblos Man (2007), Byblos Water Flower (2007).

By Kilian
Luxury niche fragrance line established in 2007 by Kilian Hennessy, grandson of the founder of Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy. The initial offerings included six scents under the name The Black Masterpiece: two for women (Love and Beyond Love), two for men (A Taste of Heaven and Straight to Heaven) and two unisex scents, (Liaisons Dangereuses and Cruel Intentions).

Recent releases include Prelude to Love (2008).

Where to buy: in the US at Bergdorf Goodman, aedes, apothia, luckyscent; in London at Harvey Nichols; in Paris at Printemps Haussman.

Stockholm-based niche line established in 2006 by Ben Gorham, and originally specializing in home fragrance products. Personal fragrances were introduced in 2008 with Rose Noir, Pulp, Gypsy Water, Green & Chembur.

Where to buy: in London at lessenteurs.