Sunday, November 19, 2006

Perfume houses D-E

Daisy Fuentes Beauty
Former model and actress who launched her own clothing and beauty lines. Fragrances were introduced in 2006 with Dianoche, followed by So Luxurious in 2007.

Recent releases include Dianoche Ocean (2008).

Where to buy: at Kohls.

Damien Bash
Small niche line with five fragrances: Lucifer no. 1, Lucifer no. 2, Lucifer no. 3, Lucifer no. 4 and Sin.

Where to buy: theperfumeshoppe (Canada).

Dana (Dana Classic Fragrances)
Perfume house established in 1932 by Javier Serra. Their first release was the now iconic Tabu (1932). Other well known fragrances include Ambush and Canoe.

Dana's prestige offerings were reconfigured for the mass market over the years, and the company was acquired, along with Houbigant, by Renaissance Cosmetics in 1994. Renaissance filed for Chapter 11 in 1999; its brands were acquired by New Dana Perfumes, later renamed Dana Classic Fragrances. Dana Classic Fragrances markets Chantilly, Tabu, Ambush, Love's Baby Soft, Canoe, and English Leather, among others.

Recent releases include English Leather Black (2007), Tabu Forbidden (2008).

Danica Aromatics
California-based perfume house established in 1993 by Danica Siegal Hyman. The "I Am" collection includes 10+ scents under the names I am passion, I am wild, I am good, etc.

Where to buy: at hamptonct or directly from Danica Aromatics.

Daniel Hechter
French fashion house. Designer Daniel Hechter is perhaps best known for his ready-to-wear clothing.

Fragrances were introduced in 1989 with Caractere. Subsequent releases include Sport (1999), Contact (2003).

Recent releases include Hechter Paris (2007).

David and Victoria Beckham (dvb)
He is the well-known soccer player, she was formerly Posh Spice of the Spice Girls.

Fragrances are created under arrangements with Coty, and include David Beckham Instinct (2005), Intimately Beckham for him & for her (2006), Intense Instinct (2007), Intimately Beckham Night for him & for her (2007), Instinct After Dark (2008), Beckham Signature (2008).

Swiss luxury brand, known for its small leather goods, cigars and cigarettes, and fashion accessories.

Perfumes are produced under Coty, Inc, and include the popular Cool Water for men (1988) and Cool Water Woman (1996). Other well known fragrances include Good Life and Echo.

Recent releases include Silver Shadow (2005), Cool Water Sea, Scents and Sun (2005), Cool Water Game (2006), Davidoff Summer Fizz Collection (2006), Silver Shadow Altitude (2007), Cool Water Wave for women (2007), Happy Summer Collection (2007), Davidoff Adventure (2008), Cool Water Freeze Me (2008), Silver Shadow Private (2008).

Where to buy: at department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
While she was studying art in college, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz got a job working at a Boston perfumery called Essense On Newbury Street. She found her calling, and eventually bought the business and moved to Colorado, where she established Essence Oils and a higher end line, Parfums des Beaux Arts. She has also developed perfumes for other companies, including Eau for Jules & Jane, and Boheme and Cielo for Flora Napa Valley (Cielo was created in collaboration with Christopher Brosius of CB I Hate Perfume).

Recent releases include Hula Hula, Wild Honeysuckle, Sweet Dreams, Silver Sage & Powder (2007), Blond Suede, Sequoia7 & Lumiere (2007), Tamarind/Paprika (2007), St. Valentine and Pretty & Pink (2008), Madonna Lily (2008), Marc, Sophie & Luckyclover (2008).

Perfume house founded by Christopher Brosius and Christopher Gable in 1993. Their first release was Fresh Water.

Their huge "Fragrance Library" now has 100+ scents that range from the evocative (Crust of Bread, Gingerale, Sugar Cookie) to the somewhat odd (Stable, Sushi, Humidor) to the downright bizarre (Turpentine, Earthworm, Funeral Home).

The company was acquired by Freedom Marketing Group in 2002, and Brosius has since left Demeter to launch the new line CB I Hate Perfume.

See reviews for Grass, Greenhouse, Christmas Tree & Condensed Milk, Baby Powder, Ginger Cookie, Redhead in Bed, Between the Sheets and Fiery Curry, Thunderstorm and Cannabis Flower, Gingerale.

Recent releases include Play-Doh (2006), Vanilla Ice Cream, Lavender Martini, Clean Windows & Lychee (2007), Apple Blossom & Cherry Blossom (2007), the Jelly Belly Collection (Fruit Salad, Blueberry Muffin, Sugar & Spice, Wild Blackberry Peach Cobbler, Mango Pineapple Salsa, Hot Fudge Sundae (2007), Crayon (2007), Pure Soap (2007), Hot Kiss Collection (2007), Egg Nog (2007), Necco Sweethearts (2008), Incense (2008), Frozen Margarita (2008), Tootsie Collection (2008), Swimming Pool (2008).

Where to buy: b-glowing, sephora, sesto-senso, ulta or online fragrance discounters. You can also order directly from Demeter (see below).

Des Filles a la Vanille
French niche line of perfumes and home fragrance.

Recent releases include Imma (2006).

Where to buy: at beautyhabit in the US.

Desire in Sunlight
Indie natural perfumes and perfumed chocolates by Isabelle Aurel. See review of Chocolat Jasmin.

Dessert Beauty
Brand established in 2004 by Clean Perfume's Randi Shinder in collaboration with American pop star Jessica Simpson, and specializing in gourmand bath, body & fragrance products. It has since been discontinued.

Niche beauty and fragrance line established in Paris in 1905. Fragrances include 1905, Sheliane and Alizee for women; Aeroplane, Escrimeur and Yachting for men.

Where to buy: at Takashimaya in New York.

Italian jeans & sportwear company.

Under arrangements with Marbert Cosmetics, Diesel launched several fragrances, including Diesel Plus Plus (1997), Diesel Zero Plus (1999) and Green (2002). Those fragrances are all now discontinued.

In early 2006, Diesel signed a new licensing agreement with L'Oreal. The first fragrance under that deal is Diesel Fuel for Life (2007), which was followed by Diesel Cologne Fuel for Life (2008).

Recent releases include Fuel for Life Unlimited (2008).

Where to buy: department stores and online discounters.

Diptyque was established in 1961 by three friends: painter Desmond Knox-Leet, set designer Yves Coueslant, and Christiane Gautrot, who was working in an architecture firm. Their original plan was to design and market original cotton print fabrics, but scented candles, introduced in 1963 as something of a sideline, turned out to be more popular than the fabrics. There are currently over 50 scents in the candle collection.

Diptyque was acquired by Manzanita Capital in 2005. See also: Diptyque (book) by Elisabeth de Feydeau.

Home fragrance reviews include Essence of John Galliano, Lilas, Pomander, Feuille de Lavande, Coing, Roses, Figuier, Pois de Senteur. Recent candle releases include Opopanax Bronze (2006), Epicea, Gingembre & Encens (2007).

In 1968 Diptyque launched their first personal fragrance, L'Eau. See reviews for L'Eau Trois (1975), L'Ombre dans L'Eau (1983), Olene (1988), Philosykos (1996), Oyedo (2000), Tam Dao (2003).

Recent releases include Do Son (2005), Eau de Lierre (2006), L'Eau de L'Eau, L'Eau des Hesperides, L'Eau de Neroli (2008).

Where to buy: Diptyque has boutiques in Boston and San Francisco. The fragrances can also be found at aedes, beautyhabit, fourseasons, and selected Barneys and Neiman Marcus stores. Overseas: senteursdailleurs in Brussels or first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Niche perfume house established by Yvon Mouchel in Dinard, France. Fragrances include Divine, L'Ame Soeur, L'Infante, L'Homme Sage and L'Homme de Coeur.

Recent releases include L'inspiratrice (2006).

Where to buy: luckyscent in the US, first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Dolce & Gabbana
Italian fashion design house founded in 1982 by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

Their first fragrance, Dolce & Gabbana, launched in 1992. Later releases include Light Blue (2001) and Sicily (2003).

Recent releases include Dolce & Gabbana The One (2006), Light Blue Pour Homme (2007), The One For Men (2008), L'Eau The One (2008).

Fragrances were produced under licensing arrangements with Euroitalia until mid-2006, after that, with Procter & Gamble.

Where to buy: at major department stores or online discounters.

Domenico Caraceni
Domenico Carceni was established in Rome in 1913 as a bespoke men's tailor, and became known for creating clothing for various celebrities. Caraceni's descendents still operate as tailors in Milan, but the Domenico Caraceni brand name was purchased by Gianni Campagna in 1998.

Three fragrances, Domenico Caraceni 1913, Ivy League & Loren.

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent; in Germany at first-in-fragrance.

Donna Karan
Fashion designer who started out under Liz Claiborne and Anne Klein, then established her own line in 1985. Fragrances are produced under licensing arrangements with Estee Lauder.

Fragrances include Cashmere Mist (1994), Chaos (1996), Black Cashmere (2002) and Be Delicious (2004).

In 2008, Donna Karan relaunched a collection of "iconic" and discontinued fragrances: Donna Karan, Chaos, Fuel, Black Cashmere and the Donna Karan Essence Collection.

Recent releases include Donna Karan Essence (2005), Red Delicious (2006), DKNY Summer (2006) and Donna Karan Gold (2006), DKNY Summer 2007 (2007), Be Delicious Picnic in the Park (2007), DKNY To Go (2007), DKNY Delicious Night (2007), DKNY Summer 2008 (2008), Charmingly Delicious (2008).

Small niche perfume house of Doris Brugger. There are two fragrances, Goldmund and Narziss.

Where to buy: luckyscent.

Dragonfly Blue
Single note and blended perfume oils. See review for Dragonfly Blue Shea Butter.

Dr Vranjes
Florence-based line of Dr. Paulo Vranjes, the original founder of Antica Farmacista.

Where to buy: beautyhabit, luckyscent, your-cosmetics.

Fashion line established in Milan in 1994 by Dean and Dan Caten, twin brothers from Canada. According to The Independent, "DSquared's brand of tarty chic - American trailer trash with Italian tailoring - has made the label popular with everybody from high street rip-off merchants and footballer's wives to Giorgio Armani, the antithesis of DSquared's camp irreverence, who even attended one of their shows." (3/10/2005)

Fragrances were introduced in 2007 with Dsquared2 He Wood, followed by She Wood in 2008.

British luxury goods house founded by Alfred Dunhill.

Fragrances were introduced in 1934 with Dunhill for men. Other fragrances include Dunhill Edition (1984) and X-Centric (2001).

Recent releases include Dunhill Fresh (2005), Dunhill Pure (2006), Dunhill Pursuit (2006), Dunhill London (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores or online discounters.

Fragrance line founded in 2004 by Kareema and Felice McLendon. As of mid-2006 there were five fragrances: Belle, Eclectic, Ocean, Indulge and Tranquil.

Recent releases include Fig, Fruit Noir and Tropic (2007).

Where to buy: online at beautycafe or lacremebeauty.

Eau d'Italie
Eau d'Italie is the niche perfume line established by the Sersale family, owners of the Positano hotel Le Sirenuse. The first fragrance, Eau d'Italie, was introduced in 2005 (see also review for the matching body products). It was followed by Paestum Rose, Bois d'Ombrie and Sienne l'Hiver (all 2006).

Recent releases include Magnolia Romana (2008).

Where to buy: at aedes, lafcony or luckyscent in the United States, at Liberty in the UK.

Los Angeles boutique founded by Viktoria Fisch, and featuring accessories, jewelry and fragrances. The Ebba "Miss Collection" of scents includes Miss Alex, Miss Marisa, Miss Pilar and more. Recent releases include Miss Marisa Tropical (2005), By Sea and By Sand (2006).

Where to buy: beautyhabit, luckyscent and makeupheaven.

Ecco Bella
Line of natural skin care, cosmetics & fragrances.

E Coudray
French line established in 1822 by Edmond Coudray. Recent releases include Esperys (2007).

Eden Park
French rugby-inspired clothing brand. Fragrances were introduced with Oval in 2006.

Subsequent fragrances include Eau de Sport (2007), Rugby (?).

Ed Hardy
Apparel and accessories by French designer Christian Audigier, inspired by the tattoo designs of Ed Hardy.

The line's first fragrances, Ed Hardy Man by Christian Audigier and Ed Hardy Woman by Christian Audigier, launched in early 2008.

Recent releases include Love & Luck (2008).

Where to buy: department stores & online discounters.

Elizabeth Arden
Cosmetics firm established by Florence Nightingale Graham, who later adopted the name Elizabeth Arden. She opened her first salon with a partner around 1909; later, she started producing face creams and makeup, and the one salon led to a chain of salons across the United States and Europe. Arden was at one time one of the wealthiest women in the US, and she is frequently credited with making color cosmetics "acceptable" in polite society.

Arden died in 1966. The brand was bought by Eli Lilly in 1971, and later sold to Unilever, who in turn sold it to FFI Fragrances in 2000; later, FFI changed their name to Elizabeth Arden Inc. Fragrance brands currently owned by Elizabeth Arden Inc include Halston, Elizabeth Taylor (see below), Britney Spears, Hilary Duff, White Shoulders, Daytona 500, Danielle Steel, Mariah Carey and Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel. In 2006, the company also acquired a number of brands from Riviera, including Badgley Mischka, Alfred Sung, Hummer, Nanette Lepore, Cynthia Rowley, Lulu Guinness and Bob Mackie. In 2008, Elizabeth Arden added the Liz Claiborne brands to their portfolio, including Juicy Couture, Usher, Curve by Liz Claiborne, Lucky Brand, Liz, Bora Bora and Mambo.

The first big fragrance under the Elizabeth Arden brand name was Blue Grass in the 1930s. Later releases include Red Door in 1989 and Green Tea in 1999.

Recent Elizabeth Arden releases include After Five 5th Avenue (2005), Provocative Interlude (2006), Red Door Velvet (2006), Green Tea Revitalize (2006), Mediterranean & Green Tea Tropical (2007), Mediterranean Breeze (2008), Green Tea Lotus (2008).

Elizabeth Taylor
American actress whose fragrances are produced under arrangements with Elizabeth Arden. Her success in the fragrance world inspired scores of celebrities to enter the perfume market.

Taylor's first fragrance, Passion, launched in 1987. Annick Goutal, who had a prior perfume called Passion, sued over the name; originally Taylor was allowed to keep the name but told to remove the fragrance from the high-end stores where the Goutal brand was sold, later, the two companies came to an amicable settlement.

Other fragrances include White Diamonds (1991), the Fragrant Jewel Collection (1993, including Diamonds & Emeralds, Diamonds & Rubies and Diamonds & Sapphires), Black Pearls (1996), Forever Elizabeth (2002), and Gardenia (2003).

San Francisco-based perfumery founded in 1995 by Albert Nichols and Michael Lindsay, and named for Nichols' great-grandmother. As of mid-2006, there were 12 fragrances in the line, including the popular Sweet Tea. See review for Magnolia Bath Gel.

Recent releases include Neroli Chamomile (2006).

Where to buy: online at hamptonct or directly from ElizabethW (see below).

Ellen Tracy
Fashion design house established by Herbert Gallen in 1949. Linda Allard joined the company as designer in 1962; under her design direction Ellen Tracy became one of the most popular sportswear lines in the United States. The brand was acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2002, after which Gallen & Allard both retired.

Fragrances were introduced in 1991 with Ellen Tracy. Other scents include Inspire (2001) and Imagine (2003). Recent releases include Tracy (2006).

Ellie D
Niche perfume line established by Jessica Dunne in 2007. The first fragrance release was Ellie, followed by Ellie Nuit in 2008.

Where to buy: at luckyscent, or at Henri Bendel in New York.

Emanuel Ungaro
French fashion house founded by Emanuel Ungaro, the son of an Italian tailor. He worked for Cristobal Balenciaga before establishing his own line in 1965. The fragrance and fashion businesses are currently owned by Ferragamo.

Fragrances include Diva (1982), Senso (1987), Desnuda (2001) and Apparition (2004).

Recent releases include Apparition Homme (2005), Apparition Sun (2006), Apparition Facets and Apparition Homme Intense (both 2007), Ungaro Ungaro (2007), Apparition Sky (2007).

Emilio Pucci
Italian fashion designer (d. 1992). Pucci was a skiier, and started out in the fashion industry as a skiwear designer. He was best known for his bold, brightly colored print designs, and was often called the "Prince of Prints".

Pucci's fashion business was purchased by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy in 2000. Christian Lacroix was subsequently brought in as Creative Director. Since 2006, Matthew Williamson has been Creative Director.

Fragrances were introduced in 1966 with Vivara, followed by Signor Vivara in 1970. Several others followed, but the fragrance line was eventually discontinued. In 2007, Pucci launched a new version of Vivara.

Ermenegildo Zegna
Italian fashion design house founded in 1910 and known primarily for their menswear. Fragrances include Essenza di Zegna (2003). The license for the Zegna fragrance line is held by L'Oreal.

Recent releases include Z Zegna (2005), Essenza di Zegna Acqua d' Estate 2006, Z Zegna Design by Ducati (2006), Zegna Intenso (2007), Essenza di Zegna Acqua d'Estate 2007, Z Zegna Extreme (2007), Z Zegna Fresh (2008).

German fashion design house established by designer Margaretha Ley (d. 1992) and her husband, Wolfgang Ley, in 1976.

The line's first fragrance, Escada by Margaretha Ley, launched in 1990. Escada Collection debuted in 1997, and is released each year in a limited edition packaged to reflect the latest designs in Escada's couture line (the fragrance itself remains the same). Other launches include Escada Sentiment (2000), Magnetism (2003) and Escada (2005).

A series of yearly limited edition summer "fashion fragrances" was inaugurated in 1993 with Chiffon Sorbet, followed by Summer in Provence (1994), Ocean Blue (1995), Jardin de Soleil (1996), Que Viva Escada (1997), Sunny Frutti (1998), Loving Bouquet (1999), Lily Chic (2000), Tropical Punch (2001), Sexy Graffiti (2002), Ibiza Hippie (2003), Island Kiss (2004), Rockin Rio (2005), Pacific Paradise (2005), Sunset Heat (2006), Moon Sparkle (2007), Ocean Lounge (2008).

Recent fragrances include Into the Blue (2006), S by Escada (2007), Incredible Me (2008).

Where to buy: at sephora, major department stores or online fragrance discounters.

Escentric Molecules
Perfume house founded in 2005 by Berlin-based perfumer Geza Schoen in collaboration with the UK companies ThisCompany and MeCompany. Fragrances include Molecule 01, consisting solely of the aroma chemical Iso E Super, and Escentric 01.

Recent releases include Escentric 02 & Molecule 02 (2008).

Where to buy: aedes, luckyscent, miomia or Barneys. In the UK at Harvey Nichols.

Clothing company established in the late 1960s in San Francisco, and now headquartered in Germany and Hong Kong.

Fragrances were introduced in 2000 with Esprit Scents + Senses, a set of six perfumes. Other fragrances include Life by Esprit (2003), Horizon Man & Horizon Woman (2006), Esprit Connect Him, Her, Us (2007), Night Life by Esprit Man & Woman (2007), Dynamic Life (2008), Esprit Celebration (2008).

Fragrances are produced under arrangements with Coty.

Home and personal fragrance line established in France; now part of the Nippon Kodo Group.

Recent releases include Pivoine, Tonka & Cedre (2006), Sensuelle Russie (2006), Ambre, Collection Couleurs, Secrete Afrique & Passion Bresil (2006-2007), Classic Chypre & Modern Chypre (2007), Angelic Flower, Oriental Flower, Sonata Flower, Cuir, Patchouli & Balade creole (2008).

Where to buy: aedes, fourseasons, your-cosmetics.

Estee Lauder
Cosmetics, skincare and fragrance company founded by Estée Lauder (d. 2004) in 1946, who started with several skincare products created by her chemist uncle. She landed counter space at Saks in 1948, and went on to build an empire. The Estee Lauder company is now publicly traded, but is still run by the Lauder family.

The first fragrance from Estee Lauder was Youth Dew (see reviews of Youth Dew Eau de Parfum and Youth Dew Body Creme), introduced in 1953 as a scented bath oil that could also be used as a perfume. It was followed by Estée in 1968 and Azurée in 1969. Other well known fragrances include Private Collection (1973), Cinnabar (1978), White Linen (1978), Beautiful (1985), Pleasures (1995) and Beyond Paradise (2003).

In 2005, Estee Lauder announced that Tom Ford had signed on to create new products under the Estee Lauder brand, and to launch his own Tom Ford brand in late 2006. Fragrances under Tom Ford's direction under the Estee Lauder name include Youth Dew Amber Nude (2005) and Azuree body oil (2006). Tom Ford Black Orchid (2006) was the first fragrance under his own name. The 2007 Tom Ford Estee Lauder Collection includes Azuree Body Oil & Azuree Soleil Eau Fraiche Skinscent.

Other recent fragrance releases from Estee Lauder include Pleasures Intense for men (2005), Pure White Linen (2006), Beyond Paradise Blue (2006), Beautiful Love (2007), Emerald Dream (2007), Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia (2007), Pleasures Delight (2007), Pure White Linen Light Breeze (2008), Bali Dream (2008), Bronze Goddess (2008), Summer Fun Collection 2008 (2008), Sensuous (2008).

In addition to products marketed under the Estee Lauder brand name, the company also owns and/or markets a variety of other cosmetic & fragrance brand names including Aramis, Aveda, Bobbi Brown, Clinique, Donna Karan, Jo Malone, MAC, Michael Kors, Missoni, Origins, Prescriptives, Sean John Fragrances and Tommy Hilfiger.

Where to buy: from the website (see below), or at major department stores or online fragrance discounters.

Etat Libre d'Orange
French niche line introduced in 2006 with six unisex fragrances: Jasmin et Cigarette, Encens & Bubblegum, Vraie Blonde, Secretions Magnifiques, Je Sui Un Homme and Putain des Palaces. Five more followed shortly after: Eloge du Traitre, Antiheros, Rien, Divin'Infant and Nombril Immense.

Recent releases include Vierges & Toreros and Don't Get Me Wrong Baby (2007), Delicious Closet Queen & Charogne (2007), Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection, Noel au Balcon (2007), Tom of Finland (2008), Bendelirious (2008).

Where to buy: at Henri Bendel in New York, at Holt Renfrew in Canada, at first-in-fragrance in Germany, at lessenteurs ar harveynichols in London.

Italian manufacturer of fabrics, fashions, home furnishings and fragrances. The firm was founded in 1968 by Gimmo Etro and is still family-owned.

Fragrances include Shaal Nur, Messe de Minuit, Lemon Sorbet and Palais Jamais.

Recent releases include Mahogany (2004), Anice (2004) and Dianthus (2006).

Where to buy: aedes, or neimanmarcus in the US; escentual in the UK, theperfumeshoppe in Canada, senteursdailleurs in Brussels.

Everlast was established in the Bronx in 1910 as a swimwear manufacturer; today, they are best known for boxing apparel.

Fragrances were introduced in 2006 with Everlast Original 1910. Two subsequent releases, Everlast Uppercut and Everlast Cactus Shot (both 2006), were launched overseas but not in the United States.

Youth-oriented Italian fashion line launched in 1996 by clothing manufacturer Ittierre.

Fragrances were introduced in 2004 with J'S Exte Woman. Recent fragrance launches include J'S Exte Man (2006), J'S Exte Pop (2007).