Saturday, November 18, 2006

Perfume houses F-G

Nice-based fashion line established in 1961, and later acquired by Nordstrom. Fragrances were introduced in 1994 with Faconnable.

Fragrances are produced under arrangements with the Jacques Bogart Group.

Recent releases include Faconnable Stripe (2005) and Faconnable Femme (2006).

Italian fashion house established in 1925, and known especially for their leather goods, furs, and other luxury goods.

Fragrances were introduced in 1985 with Fendi for women. Subsequent releases include Fendi Uomo (1988), Asja (1993) and Life Essence (1996). See review for Fendi Theorema (1998).

In 2006, the license for the Fendi fragrance line passed from Gucci to Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, and the prior Fendi fragrances were discontinued. The first launch under LVMH was Fendi Palazzo (2007).

Fifi Chachnil
French fashion designer specializing in lingerie. One fragrance, Fifi Chachnil.

Where to buy: at b-glowing, beautyhabit, luckyscent; or in Germany at first-in-fragrance.

Estee Lauder-owned brand established in 2004, and sold exclusively at Kohls in the United States.

Fragrances include Flirtatious (2007), Glamourazzi (2008).

Where to buy: Kohls.

Flora Napa Valley
Small niche line founded by Susan and Tor Kenward in California's Napa Valley. They currently market one fragrance, Cielo. They also produce Olivina, a bath and body line.

Where to buy: beautyhabit or hamptonct.

German niche line established by Roland Tentunian.

Fragrance house established in London by barber Juan Famenias Floris in 1730. The company is still family-owned. Well-known fragrances include Malmaison, Edwardian Bouquet and Summer Limes. Recent releases include Night Scented Jasmine, introduced as a limited edition in 2005 and added to the regular line in 2006.

Perfumery established in Grasse in 1926 and named for painter Jean-Honoré Fragonard. They produce a wide range of reasonably priced fragrances and body products, and also operate a perfume museum.

In 2005, Fragonard launched a high end line in limited distribution, Confidentiel, with four fragrances (Soudain, Mensonge, Cette Nuit La and Apres Tout). Mensonge has since joined the "regular" Fragonard line and the Confidentiel line appears to have been discontinued.

Recent releases include Eclat and F! (2006), Billet Doux (2006), Belle de Soleil (2008), Fleur de Vanille (2008), Caresse (2008).

Where to buy: online at fourseasons, hamptonct.

Francesco Smalto
Menswear designer. Fragrances include Smalto (1998) and Fullchoke (2005).

Frank Los Angeles
Niche line which debuted in 2004 with the fragrance Frank no. 1, followed by Frank no. 2 the following year.

Recent releases include Frank No. 3 (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent, in Germany at first-in-fragrance.

French niche line from the well-known Cognac house. The perfume range was established by Béatrice Cointreau, great granddaughter of Pierre Frapin and managing director of the Frapin estate. Their debut fragrance, 1270, launched in 2002 and was named for the year the family settled in the Cognac region of France. The line also includes home fragrance.

Recent releases include Terre de Sarment, Esprit de Fleurs, Passion Boisée & Caravelle Epicee (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at aedes, beautyhabit, luckyscent; in Germany at first-in-fragrance.

Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums
Niche perfume house established in Paris in 2000 by Frederic Malle, the grandson of Serge Heftler-Louiche (childhood friend of Christian Dior who helped establish the Dior perfume brand) and nephew of the late Louis Malle.

Malle "curates" the work of well-known perfumers: they are given some degree of creative freedom, and the brand focuses on quality materials instead of expensive packaging. Malle was inspired by the prestigious French publishing house Gallimard, which packaged its books in plain, cream-colored covers with simple red lettering:

"Not only did Gallimard publish the best authors in its time, but its books also look like nothing else," Malle explains. He likens the books to other timeless designs, such as the Porsche car and the Leica camera. "I said to myself, 'I'll do an Editions de Parfums like Editions Gallimard,'" Malle continues. "The idea was to put them in direct contact with the public, without the filter of a brand." (via W Magazine, 3/1/2001)
2000 releases included Une Fleur de Cassie, En Passant, Lys Mediterranee, Noir Epices, Angeliques Sous La Pluie, Iris Poudre, Lipstick Rose, Le Parfum de Thérèse and Musc Ravageur. Later fragrances include Cologne Bigarade, Bigarade Concentree, Vetiver Extraordinaire, L'Eau d'Hiver and Une Rose.

Recent releases include Carnal Flower (2005), French Lover (2007), Outrageous (2007), Dans Tes Bras (2008).

Where to buy: online at barneys in the US, lessenteurs in the UK. A Malle boutique is due to open in Liberty of London in October 2008, and a freestanding boutique in New York City in early 2009. Elsewhere, through the Malle website (see below).

Boston-based fragrance and body products company established by Lev Glazman and Alina Roytberg in 1991.

Recent releases include Memoirs of a Geisha (2005), Pink Jasmine (2005), Cannabis Santal (2006), Fresh Sugar Lychee (2006), Hesperides (2007), Mangosteen (2007), Violette (2007), Cannabis Rose (2008), Strawberry Flowers (2008).

Where to buy:, sephora and selected department stores, including Neiman Marcus. There are also free-standing Fresh boutiques in New York City, Boston, San Franciso, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, London.

Fresh Scents by Terri
California-based perfume line established in 2002 by Terri Weitzman. Fragrances include Breathe, Oh Baby, Dream, My Lulu and Zoe. Shimmer sprays are available in Tangerine Kiss, Berry Cute & Peachy Keen.

Note: in early 2008, Fresh Scents by Terri announced a going out of business sale.

Where to buy: beautycafe, beautyintuition, beautysak, sephora and selected Nordstrom stores.

Gabriela Sabatini
Argentine professional tennis player who retired in the 1990s.

Fragrances were introduced with Gabriela Sabatini in 1989. Subsequent perfumes include Magnetic (1993), Devotion & Devotion for Men (2001), GS Daylight (2002), Private Edition, Temperamento (2004), Elegance (2005) and Ocean Sun (2006).

Recent releases include Latin Dance (2008).

Perfume house established in Grasse in 1747. Galimard sells several ready-made perfumes, and in addition, offers factory tours and a "create your own fragrance" boutique.

Clothing house best known for men's sportswear. Gant was founded in the US in 1949, but is now a Swedish company. Fragrances are currently produced under arrangements with Elizabeth Arden.

Fragrances include Gant (2000), Indigo (2001), Soho (2002), Adventure (2005), Liquid (2006), Gant Summer (2008), Gant Silver (2008).

American casual clothing chain founded in 1969, and originally focusing on jeans and t-shirts. The Gap currently operates over 3,000 clothing stores under the names The Gap, GapKids, babyGap, GapBody, etc, and also operates the Old Navy and Banana Republic chains, among others.

Fragrances were introduced in 1994 with four unisex scents: Grass, Earth, Day and Heaven. Subsequent launches include Dream (1995), Om (1996), So Pink (2001), Gap Scent Editions (2005, 12 mix-n-match oils).

Recent releases include Gap Bath+Body Sugar Snap, Island Hop, Rain Check, Night Fall, Sunny Side, Love Shack, Moon Walk & Peace Train (2007), Gap Body Coconut Tuberose, Lavender Tea, White Amber, Mandarin Jasmine, Velvet Bloom & Washed Cotton (2007), G7 Mixed, Bold, Spiked (2007), Individuals Natural, Original, Visionary & Lover (2007)

Where to buy: at freestanding Gap or Gap Body stores or on the website (see below).

Fragrance line established by Topper Schroeder, who wanted to create colognes "without irritating skin or asthmatic reactions". The line now includes Gendarme, Gendarme Green, Gendarme V, Gendarme 20, Carriere and Grabazzi. In 2006, Gendarme released a new series, 7 Sinful Scents.

Recent releases include Gendarme Sky (2007).

Where to buy: sephora, selected department stores or online fragrance discounters.

Geo F Trumper
Barber George Trumper established his business in London in 1875. The line offers men's grooming and fragrance products; the first unisex fragrance, GFT, was introduced in 1999.

Where to buy: online at bigelowchemists, cambridgechemists, fourseasons, scentier or sesto-senso.

British fashion house founded in 1984 by Tanya Sarne. Fragrances were introduced in 2000 with Ghost by Ghost, and are produced under arrangements with Cosmopolitan Cosmetics.

Recent releases include Ghost Sheer Summer (2005), Ghost Cherish (2005), Ghost Summer Flirt (2006), Ghost Anticipation (2007), Ghost Sweetheart (2008).

Where to buy: at freestanding Ghost stores in New York or Los Angeles, or at the online fragrance discounters. In the UK, there are freestanding stores in London, or try Harvey Nichols, Liberty or Selfridges.

Gianfranco Ferré
Italian fashion designer who started as an architecture student, then established his own line in 1974. He was the artistic director at Christian Dior from 1989 until 1997 while also maintaining his Ferré brand in Milan. Gianfranco Ferré passed away in 2007; he was succeeded by designer Lars Nilsson (Nilsson left Ferré in early 2008).

Recent releases: Bergamotto Marino (2005), Ferre for women (2005), Ferre for men (2006), Ferre Rose (2007), GF Ferre Bluemusk (2007), Ferre Rose Diamond Edition (2008), Acqua Azzurra (2008).

Ginestet was established as a wine merchant in Bordeaux in 1897. In the early 2000s, they released three wine-inspired fragrances: Le Boisé (red wine), Sauvignonne (dry white wine), and Botrytis (Sauternes).

Where to buy: available at beautyhabit, hamptonct and luckyscent.

Giorgio Armani
Armani started as a window dresser in an Italian department store. In 1974 he debuted his first menswear collection; today, he owns a fashion empire than has done very well indeed: in 2004, he was ranked 294 in Forbes list of the wealthiest people in the world.

Fragrances are produced under licensing arrangments with L'Oreal. Armani's first big fragrance success came with 1996's Acqua di Gio for men. Other fragrances include Armani Mania (2002), Sensi (2002) and Black Code (now renamed Armani Code) for men (2004). Also see review for Emporio Armani City Glam for him.

In 2004, Armani debuted a high-end niche line under Armani Privé; fragrances include Armani Prive Bois d'Encens & Eau de Jade and Armani Prive Pierre de Lune & Ambre Soie. Later additions include Cuir Amethyste (2006), Eclat de Jasmin (2007). In 2008, a lighter range was introduced under "Les Eaux Armani Privé, with Rose Alexandrie, Vetiver Babylone, Oranger Alhambra. The Armani Privé line is sold in the US at Barneys, Saks, Giorgio Armani boutiques or online direct from Armani (see link below).

Recent mainstream releases include Armani Code for women (2006), Emporio Remix Lui & Emporio Remix Elle (2006), Armani Code for Women Eau de Toilette, Armani Summer Mania (2007), Armani Attitude (2007), Emporio Armani Diamonds (2007), Emporio Armani (PRODUCT) Red She & He (2007), Emporio Armani Diamonds For Men (2008), Emporio Armani Diamonds Intense (2008), Onde Mystere, Vertige, Extase (2008).

Where to buy: at major department stores or online fragrance discounters.

Fashion design house founded in 1952 by Hubert de Givenchy, who had worked previously under Jacques Fath and Lucien Lelong. In 1953, Givenchy met Audrey Hepburn; she became his friend and muse and made his fashions world famous. Givenchy retired in 1995; Riccardo Tisci is currently creative director at the house of Givenchy (for both the men's and the women's lines).

Fragrances include Le De Givenchy (1957), L'Interdit (inspired by Audrey Hepburn, 1957), Givenchy III (1970), Eau de Givenchy (1980), Ysatis (1984), Amarige (1991), Organza (1996), Organza Indecence (1999), Hot Couture (2000), Very Irresistible (2003). Fragrances for men include Monsieur de Givenchy (1959), Xeryus (1986), Pi (1999), Givenchy Pour Homme (2002) and Very Irresistible for men (2005).

In 2007, Givenchy released Les Parfums Mythiques, a collection of 10 older fragrances, including some that had been discontinued (Le De, L'Interdit, Monsieur, Vetyver, Givenchy III, Eau de Givenchy, Xeryus, Insense, Extravagance d'Amarige & Organza Indecence).

Other recent releases include Very Irresistible Sensual (2005), Amarige Harvest (2005), Organza Jasmin d'Inde & Very Irresistible Rose Bulgare (both harvest scents, 2006), Very Irresistible Summer (2006), Givenchy Ange ou Demon (2006), Lovely Prism (2006), Amarige Mariage (2006), Jardin d'Interdit (2006, Asia), Absolutely Givenchy (2007), Givenchy Very Irresistible Soleil D'Ete & Very Irresistible Fresh Attitude (2007), Givenchy Les Millesimes 2006 (harvest scents, 2007), Secrets of Jardin d'Interdit (2007), Insense Ultramarine Blue Sky (2007), Pi Neo (2008), My Givenchy Dream (2008), Ange ou Demon Tendre (2008), Givenchy Les Millesimes 2007 (harvest scents, 2008), Very Irresistible Givenchy Summer Cocktail (2008), Jardin d'Interdit My Lovely Butterfly (2008), Givenchy Play (2008), Absolutely Irresistible Givenchy (2008).

Givenchy is owned by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy.

Where to buy: at major department stores or online fragrance discounters.

Mme. Alix Grès was born Germaine Emilie Krebs in 1903. She began designing under the name "Alix Barton" in the 1930s, then launched her design house under the name Grès in Paris in 1942. She was originally trained as a sculptor, and became famous for her flowing, draped haute couture designs. Unlike many of her contemporaries, she resisted the move into more profitable ready-to-wear lines, and the once famous house eventually went bankrupt in the 1980s. Grès passed away in 1993.

Her first perfume was Cabochard, launched in 1959. Later releases include Cabotine (1990), Folie Douce (1997) and Cabaret (2003).

Recent releases include Caline (2005), Caline Night (2006), Fleur de Cabotine and Ambre de Cabochard (2007), Caline Sweet Appeal (2007), Hommage a Marlene Dietrich My Dream, My Life & My Passion (2008), Cabotine Delight (2008).

Guccio Gucci (1881-1953) established the Gucci brand in 1920 in Florence, specializing in leather goods. His four sons, and later his grandson, joined the firm, and despite years of family in-fighting and legal disputes, the company grew to become one of the world's premier luxury goods houses.

Gucci was struggling as a company in 1990 when Tom Ford was brought in, first as a ready-to-wear designer, later as Creative Director of the brand. In 2000, Gucci took over Yves Saint Laurent, and Tom Ford became Creative Director there as well. Ford's sexy designs revitalized both houses; when he left in 2004, many speculated that Gucci's glory days were over. The current Creative Director is Frida Giannini. Fragrances are produced under arrangements with Procter & Gamble.

Fragrances were introduced with Gucci no. 1 in 1974. Subsequent releases include Gucci no. 3 (1985), Envy (1997), Envy for men (1998), Rush (1999), Rush for men (2000), Gucci Eau de Parfum (2002), Gucci Pour Homme (2003) and Envy Me (2004).

Recent releases include Envy Me 2 (2006), Gucci Pour Homme 2 (2007), Gucci by Gucci (2007), Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme (2008).

Perfume house founded in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. Guerlain at first sold imported toiletry products; eventually, he began to develop his own fragrances and to create custom perfumes for his clients. He soon became the official supplier to many of the crowned heads of Europe. Eau de Cologne Impériale (1853) was created for Empress Eugenie, and introduced the now iconic "bee bottle" decorated with the golden bees of the Napoleonic crest.

After his death, his son Aimé Guerlain became the house perfumer. His best known fragrance, Jicky, was created in 1889 and is widely considered to be the first "modern" perfume. Aimé was also said to have developed the famous "Guerlinade" base used in many of the iconic fragrances from the House of Guerlain.

His nephew Jacques Guerlain took over as perfumer and launched Apres L'Ondee in 1906. He went on to create many of the masterpieces which established the modern reputation of Guerlain, including L'Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919) and Vol de Nuit (1933). Shalimar, possibly the house's best known fragrance even today, was introduced in 1925. Its creation was said to have been an accident: according to Elisabeth Barille, "while examining a sample of vanillin, Jacques Guerlain suddenly poured the entire contents into a nearby bottle of Jicky, just to see what would happen." (p 11).

Jean Paul Guerlain is the grandson of Jacques Guerlain, and was said to have assisted in the creation of Ode (1956); his first solo perfume effort was Vetiver, in 1959. Other well known fragrances by Jean Paul Guerlain include Habit Rouge (1965), Chamade (1969), Eau de Guerlain (1974), and Nahema (1979).

Guerlain remained family-owned until 1994, when it was acquired by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy. Jean Paul Guerlain retired in 2002, but has continued to develop fragrances for the house. In 2008, it was announced that Thierry Wasser had been appointed Guerlain's house perfumer.

In 1999, Guerlain introduced the Aqua Allegoria range with 5 fragrances: Herba Fresca, Pamplelune, Rosa Magnifica, Lavande Velours and Ylang & Vanille. The line is meant to "showcase nature", and the scents are lighter and more youthful than the "regular" Guerlain issues. They add to the line every year, they also discontinue the scents quickly if they don't do well. See reviews/notices for Anisia Bella (2004), Mentafollia (2004), Orange Magnifica & Pivoine Magnifica (2005), Tutti Kiwi (2006), Grosellina (2006), Angelique Lilas & Mandarine Basilic (2007), Figue Iris & Laurier Reglisse (2008)

In 2005, Guerlain completed a major renovation of its flagship store in Paris, and at that time, announced a program to reissue selected fragrances from the back catalog as limited editions under the Les Parisiennes, Heritage and Legacy collections. Reissues to date include Kadine, Sous Le Vent, Djedi, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Voilette de Madame, Vega, Mayotte (originally Mahora), Liu, Purple Fantasy, Attrape-Coeur (originally Guet Apens), Derby, Ode, Vetiver Pour Elle, Philtre d'Amour, Chamade Pour Homme, Candide Effluve, L'Ame d'un Heros (originally Coriolan). 2005 also saw the introduction of the L'Art et la Matière line, featuring the work of well known perfumers. The initial release included Cuir Beluga, Rose Barbare and Angelique Noire; Bois d'Armenie joined the collection in 2006, Iris Ganache in 2007, Cruel Gardenia in 2008.

Recent mainstream Guerlain releases include L'Instant (2004), Lovely Cherry Blossom Gold Sparkles (2006), Colours of Love (2006), Insolence (2006), Lights of Champs Elysees (2006), Nuit d'Amour (2006), Cherry Blossom Fruity (2007), L'Instant de Guerlain Fleur de Mandarine & L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Critaux d'Agrumes (2007), Guerlain Vetiver Extreme (2007), Huiles de Parfum Garden Sensuel & Oud Sensuel (2007), L'Instant Magic (2007), Quand Vient La Pluie (2007), Vol de Nuit Evasion (2007), My Insolence (2007), Spiritueuse Double Vanille (2007), Cherry Blossom Delight (2008), Eau de Shalimar (2008), Habit Rouge Habit de Metal (2008), Guerlain Homme (2008), Insolence Eau de Parfum (2008), Les Elixirs Charnels (2008).

Where to buy: the major releases can be found at department stores and online fragrance discounters. If you're looking for one of the more obscure fragrances, try the Guerlain boutiques at Bergdorf Goodman in New York (see shopping report for Guerlain at Bergdorf Goodman), at the Waldorf Astoria in New York, at the Palazzo in Las Vegas, at the Regent Bal Harbour in Florida, in "France" at Epcot (Disney World, Orlando), or at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco.

Jeanswear and fashion house established in California in 1981 by the Marciano brothers. They gained notoriety for their sexy ad campaigns and what has been described as their "signature slutty look" (Business Week, 6/5/2006).

Fragrances were introduced in 1990 with Guess Women, followed by Guess Man in 1991; both were produced under arrangements with Revlon and were eventually discontinued. Following a new agreement with Parlux, Guess re-entered the fragrance market with Guess for women (2005) and Guess Man (2006).

Other recent launches include Guess Gold (2006), Guess Suede (2007), Guess by Marciano (2008).

Where to buy: at Guess stores or online fragrance discounters.

Guy Laroche
French fashion house of designer Guy Laroche. The house was established in 1957; Laroche died in 1989.

Fragrances were introduced in 1966 with Fidji, which according to Michael Edwards "pioneered a new generation of fresh perfumes" (Perfume Legends, p. 135). Subsequent fragrances include Drakkar (1972), J'ai Ose (1977), Drakkar Noir (1982), Clandestine (1986), Horizon Pour Homme (1993).

The Guy Laroche fragrances are produced under arrangements with L'Oreal.

Gwen Stefani
American pop star who began her career in the 1990s with the band No Doubt. Her first solo album, Love.Music.Angel.Baby. appeared in 1994, and inspired the name of her fashion label, L.A.M.B., which debuted in 2003.

Her first fragrance, L by L.A.M.B., was introduced in 2007.

Recent releases include Harajuku Lovers (2008).

Fragrances are produced under arrangements with Coty.