Friday, November 17, 2006

Perfume houses H-J

American fashion designer (Roy Frowick Halston, 1932-1990), who started as a hatmaker (he created the famous pillbox hat worn by Jackie Kennedy), and later became one of the most popular designers of the 1970s.

Fragrances were introduced in 1975 with Halston for women, in the bean-shaped bottle by Elsa Peretti. Other releases include Halston Z-14 (1976), Catalyst for women (1993), Catalyst for men (1995), and Unbound (2001).

The Halston fragrance line is now owned by Elizabeth Arden.

Hanae Mori
Japanese fashion designer. Her first foray into fragrance was a short-lived effort with Shiseido in 1970; her signature fragrance for which she is known today was launched in 1995. The official name of the fragrance was Hanae Mori; it is now known as Butterfly. Different colored butterflies decorate the packaging of each concentration (Eau de Toilette is pink, Eau de Parfum is blue, Parfum is red).

Subsequent fragrance releases include HM for men (1997) and Haute Couture (1999).

Recent releases include Magical Moon (2006).

Where to buy: at major department stores or online perfume discounters.

Company established by Anne and Alexis Hardouin-Finez. Their first fragrance launch was Dinner by Bobo (2002). In 2007, they launched the Filles des Iles Sunny Fragrance Collection (Sparkling Floral, Exotic Floral, Sensual Floral).

Recent launches include Golden Floral (2008).

Where to buy: b-glowing, beautyhabit, theposhpeasant.

James Heeley is a British designer living in Paris. He is best known for his vases, but also creates furniture and other home accessories. The fragrance range includes Eau de Menthe, Eau d'Iris, Eau de Cedre, Eau de Verveine. See review for Eau de Figuier.

Recent releases include Fine Leather, Spirit of the Tiger and Cardinal (2006), Sel Marin (2008).

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent or aedes.

French company founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès. Originally known for their leather saddles, today they are famous for their silk scarves, first introduced in the 1930s, and their luxury leather goods, including the coveted Kelly and Birkin handbags. The firm is still run by the descendents of Thierry Hermès.

Fragrances were introduced in 1951 with Eau d'Hermès, created by Edmond Roudnitska. Later releases include Caleche (1961), Equipage (1970), Eau d'Orange Verte (1979), Parfum d'Hermes (1984), Bel Ami (1986), 24, Faubourg (1995), Rocabar (1998), Hiris (1999), Rouge (2000), Caleche Eau Delicate (2003), Concentre d'Orange Verte (2004), Eau des Merveilles (2004) and Parfum des Merveilles (2005).

A "garden perfumes" line was introduced in 2003 with Un Jardin en Méditerranée. Un Jardin Sur Le Nil followed in 2005, Un Jardin Apres La Mousson in 2008.

Jean Claude Ellena joined Hermès as the in-house perfumer in 2004 . Shortly thereafter, Hermès introduced the "Hermessences", a niche line exclusive to the Hermès boutiques. The original quartet included Ambre Narguile, Rose Ikebana, Vetiver Tonka and Poivre Samarcande. Subsequent scents in the series include Osmanthe Yunnan (2005), Paprika Brasil (2006), Brin de Reglisse (2007).

Recent mainstream releases include Terre d'Hermes (2006), Elixir des Merveilles (2006), Kelly Caleche (2007).

Where to buy: major department stores and online fragrance discounters. See also a shopping report on the flagship boutique in New York City.

Herve Leger
French designer who started with hand-painted Tshirts, then launched a couture collection in 1989. The house was purchased by BCBG in the late 1990s, and Leger was subsequently ousted. He now designs under the name Herve Leroux.

The first fragrance, Herve Leger, launched in 1999. Recent releases include Rose Leger (2006).

Hierbas de Ibiza
Small family-owned house from the Spanish island of Ibiza. One fragrance: Hierbas de Ibiza.

Where to buy: online at aedes, beautyhabit, newlondonpharmacy

Hilary Duff
American actress and pop singer; became famous after starring in the Disney television series Lizzie McGuire.

Fragrances were introduced in 2006 with With Love Hilary Duff. Recent releases include Wrapped With Love (2008).

Fragrances are produced under arrangements with Elizabeth Arden.

Where to buy: department stores and online discounters.

Histoires de Parfums
Paris-based niche line established in 2001 by Gerald Ghislain. There are three fragrance lines: Parfum d’Auteurs, inspired by historical figures and named for their year of birth (1804 is George Sand, for instance, and 1740 is the Marquis de Sade); Eaux de Cologne in five traditional scents (lavender, amber, vetiver, natural, and honeysuckle); and Parfums de Couleurs, which "plays with classical perfume notes" (see reviews of Noir Patchouli, Vert Pivoine & Blanc Violette).

Recent releases include 1969 (2006), Ambre 114 (2007).

Where to buy: online at miomia in the US, or first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Hors La Monde
Small jewelry company founded in 2005 by Symine Salimpour. The first fragrance debut was Lo.

Recent releases include Shiloh (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at aedes or luckyscent.

Hotel Costes
The Hotel Costes opened in Paris in 1991; designer Jacques Garcia's maxim was said to have been "all things in excess". According to Frommers, "Fashion types gravitate toward this hotel for its grand style and location close to some of Paris's most upscale shops. It is one of the shining stars of Paris."

The house fragrance is Costes, available as an Eau de Toilette or in matching body & home fragrance products.

Where to buy: aedes, apothia, beautyhabit, bigelowchemists, luckyscent.

Perfume house established by Jean Francois Houbigant in 1775. Like Guerlain, Houbigant was patronized by royalty in the early days of its history, but unlike Guerlain, it has not survived into the modern era with its reputation intact.

Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882) was the first perfume to use the synthetic coumarin, and is thus sometimes called the first modern perfume (although others give that honor to Guerlain Jicky). Quelques Fleurs, introduced in 1912, was "the first modern floral-bouquet perfume" (Scents of Time, p. 95). Both fragrances were discontinued in the 1950s, then relaunched in the 1980s. Fougère Royale is no longer made; Quelques Fleurs, along with the flanker Quelques Fleurs Royale, is now almost all that remains of the Houbigant prestige fragrance line (others include Houbigant Apercu, first released in 1925, and Duc de Vervins).

Other historical Houbigant fragrances that were originally introduced as prestige scents, such as Chantilly (1941) and Raffinee (1982), have long since been repositioned as mass-market fragrances.

Houbigant's ownership is too complicated to relate in detail. The firm, or what was left of it, filed for bankruptcy in 1993, then was acquired (along with Dana) by Renaissance Cosmetics in 1994. Renaissance filed for Chapter 11 in 1999; its brands were acquired by New Dana Perfumes, later renamed Dana Classic Fragrances.

Hové Parfumeur
Perfume house established in New Orlean's French Quarter in 1931, and best-known for their Tea Olive scent.

Hugo Boss
German fashion design house established in 1923. The company initially made worker's clothes, and later, during the war, uniforms. After the war, the company moved into men's suits, and later, womenswear. Current brands include Boss, Hugo and Baldessarini.

Fragrances were introduced in the 1980s with Hugo Boss Number One. Fragrances are produced under licensing arrangements with Procter & Gamble.

Recent releases include Baldessarini Del Mar (2005), Energise (2005), Pure Purple (2006), Boss Selection (2006), Boss Motion in Black (2006), Boss Femme (2006), Baldessarini Ambre (2007), Hugo by Hugo Boss Limited Art Edition (2007), Essence de Femme, Boss in Motion IV, Hugo XX & XY (2007), Boss Pure (2008).

Humiecki & Graef
Niche line established by Sebastian Fischenich and Tobias Muksch, and named for their respective grandmothers. Their debut fragrance is Skarb.

Where to buy: at luckyscent in the US, first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Yes, that Hummer. The sport utility vehicle brand marketed by General Motors entered the fragrance market in 2004 with Hummer for men, produced under licensing arrangements with Riviera Concepts, and later acquired by Elizabeth Arden.

Recent fragrance releases include H2 (2005), Hummer Limited Edition (2006) and Hummer Pacific Blue (2006).

Where to buy: online at sephora or at the fragrance discounters.

Ibiza Parfums
Fragrance line of French DJ David Guetta and his wife Cathy Guetta. Two fragrances, Ibiza for women (2004) and Ibiza for men (2007).

Recent releases include Pink Power (2008).

Italian sportswear house with several fragrances, including Iceberg Effusion, Iceberg Twice and Iceberg Fluid.

Recent releases include The Iceberg Fragrance (2008).

il Profumo
Italian niche line established by Silvana Casoli. See review for Vetiver de Java.

Recent releases include Chocolat Frais, Aventure & G11 (all 2006), Blanche Jacinthe, Songe de Tulipe, Coquelicot & Imprinting (2008).

Where to buy: luckyscent in the US, first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Niche house established by Janet Piedlilato. One fragrance, Beyond Forever.

Where to buy: lacremebeauty.

French high-end niche fragrance house launched in 2007 with three fragrances: Isvaraya, Manakara and Tihota. Each is limited to an initial production run of 999 bottles; by purchasing one, you join the "Indult club" and thereby gain the privilege of being able to buy more of the scent in question.

Recent releases include C16 (2008).

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent, in France at Sephora or via Indult (see below).

San Francisco-based niche perfume house of Ineke Ruhland. Ruhland was born in Canada, and studied perfumery at ISIPCA in France before working as an apprentice at Quest. The line debuted in 2006 with four fragrances, A ~ After My Own Heart, B ~ Balmy Days & Sundays, C ~ Chemical Bonding and D ~ Derring-Do.

Recent releases include E ~ Evening Edged in Gold (2008).

Where to buy: beautyhabit and Fred Segal Los Angeles in the US, Liberty in London.

Ines de la Fressange
French model and fashion designer. An eponymous fragrance was launched in 1999; it has since been discontinued and a second eponymous fragrance was launched in 2004.

Where to buy: in the US, at online fragrance discounters, but it is hard to know which version you are getting (1999 or 2004) unless you are familiar with the bottle designs.

Institut Tres Bien
Small niche line established by Frederic Burtin. The first fragrance, Cologne a la Russe, was adapted from a formula used by a French spa, Institut Tres Bien, that operated in Lyon in the 1930s. Pierre Bourdon, the perfumer who developed the new version, also created two new fragrances for the line, Cologne a la Francaise and Cologne l'Italienne.

Recent releases include Tres Russe (2006).

Where to buy: at beautyhabit, at Henri Bendel in New York, at in France, or bliss in the UK.

Profumi di Firenze
In 1966, Florentine perfumer Giovanni di Massimo discovered 16th century manuscripts detailing the formulas for perfumes commissioned by Catherine de Medici, and the line i Profumi di Firenze was born. Mother/daughter team Rosie and Miryana Babic discovered the line in Italy, and founded Isabella Imports to distribute the fragrances in the United States.

Recent releases include Costa Mediterranea (2005), Fiori del Cielo (2006), Miela Rosa (2006), Mirra (2006), Incanto (2007), Muschio Bello (2007, later renamed Muschio e Ambra), Terra di Siena and Magnifico 9: Peperoncino (2007), Dolce Amaro & Brezza di Mare (2008).

Where to buy: beautyhabit, cherieusa, lacremebeauty, Black Satin (Wynn Hotel, Las Vegas) and selected Barneys stores. In Canada, try theperfumeshoppe or the Rosenstein Paris boutique in Montreal.

Irie Wash
Paris-based Japanese fashion designer. One trio of perfumes released in 2005: Irie Wash Paris Eau de Toilettes 09h25, 15h10 and 20h50.

Where to buy: beautyhabit or first-in-fragrance (Germany).

Isabela Capeto
Brazilian fashion designer. Fragrances were introduced in 2007 with Isabela Capeto.

Recent releases include Isabela Capeto II (2008).

Where to buy: in the US at Henri Bendel in New York City.

Isabella Rossellini
Isabella Rossellini, daughter of actress Ingrid Bergman and director Roberto Rossellini, is an actress and model. She was a spokesmodel for Lancome for almost 15 years.

A cosmetics line under her name launched in 1999, but has since been discontinued. Fragrances were introduced in 2000 with Manifesto, later renamed My Manifesto. Recent releases include Storia (2006).

The fragrance line is produced under arrangements with Coty.

I have been unable to find any historical background about the Isabey line, but one fragrance, Isabey Gardenia, is still produced by Panouge (see).

Where to buy: at beautyhabit, luckyscent or your-cosmetics in the US, at lessenteurs in the UK, at first-in-fragrance in Germany.

Issey Miyake
Japanese fashion designer who established his own line in 1970. In 2000, designer Naoki Takizawa took over responsibility for the ready-to-wear line.

Fragrances were introduced in 1993 with L'Eau d'Issey, a huge seller despite the fact that Miyake was not a household name at the time. Subsequent releases include L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme (1994) and Le Feu d'Issey (1998). See also review for L'Eau Bleue d'Issey Pour Homme.

Recent releases include L'Eau Bleue d'Issey Eau Fraiche (2006), summer editions of L'Eau d'Issey 2006 (2006), L’Eau d’Issey Une Goutte sur un Pétale (2007), L'Eau d'Issey Summer 2007 (2007), L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Intense (2007), L'Eau d'Issey Summer 2008 (2008), L'Eau d'Issey Reflets d'une Goutte (2008).

The fragrance line is produced under arrangements with Shiseido.

Where to buy: at major department stores or online discounters.

Jack Black
Men's skincare and grooming line established by Emily Dalton and Curran Dandurand in 2000.

Fragrances were introduced in 2001 with Signature, now called Signature Silver Mark. Signature Black Mark and Signature Blue Mark were launched in 2005; and the trio was christened "Liquid Magnetism".

Where to buy:, Bloomingdales, Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus.

Jacomo started as a leather goods store in New York. In 1970, they released their first scent, Eau Cendree for men, which was followed by Chicane for women.

The very informative website includes a list of all Jacomo releases, including Silences (1978), Jacomo de Jacomo (1980) and Paradox (1998).

Recent releases include Jacomo for Her (2005), Jacomo for Men (2007).

Jacques Bogart
Perfume and cosmetics company founded by Jacques Konckier in the 1970s.

Recent releases under the Jacques Bogart name include Bogart Pour Homme (2004), Silver Scent (2006), City Tower (2008).

The Jacques Bogart Group also owns or controls licenses for a number of other fragrance brands, including Faconnable, Naf Naf, Bugatti, Ted Lapidus.

Jacques Fath
French fashion designer who showed his first collection in 1937 and became well-known for his glamorous designs, including Rita Hayworth's wedding gown. Fath died in 1954 and the house fell into obscurity by the end of the decade. Since the early 1990s, several attempts have been made to revive the business. The house changed hands yet again in 2006, and Eric Tibusch was hired as designer.

Fragrances launched during Fath's lifetime include Iris Gris, Fath de Fath, Green Water and Canasta; later introductions include Fath Pour L'Homme. Most of the fragrance business was discontinued in the 1970s, but Green Water and Fath de Fath were relaunched in the 1990s.

The perfume line of the British luxury automobile manufacturer. Fragrances were introduced in 1988 with Jaguar For Men. Subsequent releases include Jaguar Classic (2002), Jaguar Performance (2003), Jaguar Woman (2004), Jaguar Fresh Man & Jaguar Fresh Woman (2005).

Recent releases include Jaguar Prestige (2008).

Line of perfume oils created by Jalaine Sommers and originally marketed under the name Bagutta Life, after the boutique of the same name in New York City. After the Bagutta Life boutique folded, the fragrances were reintroduced under the name Jalaine in 2005.

Recent releases include Jalaine Silk (2005).

Where to buy: at aedes, luckyscent or your-cosmetics.

Niche perfume house of Paris jeweller Joel Arthur Rosenthal. Current fragrances include Golconda, Ferme Tes Yeux, Diamond Waters, Jarling, Jardenia, Bolt of Lightning, and Shadow.

Where to buy: Not available online. There is a JAR boutique in Bergdorf Goodman in New York City.

Jasper Conran
Well-known British designer and son of Terence and Shirley Conran. Jasper Conran started designing at age 18, and currently has a hand in products ranging from tableware to lingerie.

Fragrances were introduced in 2003 with Jasper Conran Woman and Jasper Conran Man, followed by Woman II and Man II.

Recent releases include Mister and Mistress (2007).

J Del Pozo
Fashion house of Spanish designer Jesus del Pozo. Fragrances include Duende (1992), Quasar (1994) and Halloween (1997).

Recent releases include In Black (2005), In White (2007), Halloween Fatal Rose (2008), Halloween Kiss (2008).

Jean Charles Brosseau
Paris-based milliner and accessories designer. Ombre Rose, the line's best known fragrance, was launched in 1981. Brosseau sold the rights to the fragrance, then later sued (and won) to get the license back. Ombre Rose L'Original was then relaunched in 2002. Other releases include Thé Brun, Fruit de Bois and Atlas Cedar (2005), Violette Menthe (2005), Jasmin Lilas (2006).

Where to buy: selected department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Jean Desprez
Perfume house founded in the late 1930s by perfumer Jean Desprez. His best known perfume, Bal a Versailles, launched in 1962. Other scents include Jardanel & Sheherazade. The license for Jean Desprez fragrances has changed hands numerous times; as of 2001, the license was held by Genesis International Marketing.

Jean Louis Scherrer
Fashion house established in 1962 by Jean Louis Scherrer, a former dancer who started out as a designer at Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. He has not been associated with his eponymous fashion house since 1992.

Fragrances include Jean Louis Scherrer (1979), Nuits Indiennes (1994), Immense Pour Femme & Immense Pour Homme (2002), and S de Scherrer (2006).

Where to buy: in the US, easily found at the online fragrance discounters.

Jeanne Arthes
Perfume house established in Grasse in 1978, and currently retailing a variety of mass market fragrances under the Jeanne Arthes name.

Subsidiaries under the Arthes group include a duo of perfumes under the brand Elite Model Attitude (2006) and a perfume under the brand name Smiley (2006).

Jean Patou
French couture house established by Jean Patou (d. 1936) in 1919.

Fragrances were introduced in 1925 with Amour Amour, Que Sais-je? and Adieu, Sagesse. All three were by perfumer Henri Almeras. Almeras also created Joy (1930), the iconic fragrance for which the house is best known today. In spite of the then very recent stock market crash, it was publicized as "the costliest perfume in the world" and was a huge success. Other early perfumes include Cocktail (1930), Vacances (1936), Colony (1938), L'Heure Attendue (1946).

Jean Kerleo joined Patou as house perfumer in 1967 and remained until 1998. Fragrances under his direction include 1000 (1972), Ma Liberte (1987) and Sublime (1992). He was succeeded by Jean Michel Duriez, who created Un Amour de Patou (1998) and Enjoy (2003), among others. Recent releases include Sira des Indes (2006).

The Jean Patou fragrance business is owned by Proctor & Gamble.

Where to buy: department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Jean Paul Gaultier
French fashion designer whose first collection was shown in 1976.

Fragrances were introduced in 1993 with Jean Paul Gaultier, later known as Classique, and described as "a combination of food, facial powder, the inside of a theater and nail polish" (Women's Wear Daily, 3/12/1993). Le Male followed in 1995, Fragile in 1999. All three were known for their unusual compositions and innovative packaging.

Jean Paul Gaultier releases limited editions of Classique & Le Male in which the torso-shaped bottles are decorated or "dressed" for the season. Some recent versions: Summer 2005, Summer 2006, Kilt Collector Edition 2006, Valentine's Day 2007, Summer 2007, Le Male Scuba Edition 2007, Summer 2008.

Recent releases include Gaultier2, aka Gaultier to the power of two (2005), Fleur du Male (2007), Gaultier2 Eau d'Amour (2008), La Cologne Fleur du Male (2008), Monsieur Eau du Matin (2008), Ma Dame (2008).

Jennifer Lopez
American singer and actress also known as J Lo. Fragrances are produced under arrangements with Coty.

Her first fragrance, Glow, launched in 2002. It sold like gangbusters and inspired many other celebrities to enter the fragrance market.

Subsequent releases include Still (2003), Miami Glow (2005), Love at First Glow (2006), Live (2005) and Live Luxe Jennifer Lopez (2006), Jennifer Lopez Glow After Dark (2006), Glow Shimmer Edition (2007), Deseo (2008), Deseo Forever (2008), Deseo for men (2008).

Jessica McClintock
San Francisco-based fashion designer known for her romantic dresses and bridal wear. The business was founded as Gunne Sax in 1969.

Fragrances were introduced in 1987 with Jessica McClintock. Subsequent releases include Jess (1995), Number 3 (2001), New Victorian, Always & Forever (2007).

Jessica Simpson
American pop singer. A line of scented body products under the label Dessert Beauty was introduced in 2004; that line has since been discontinued.

Her debut fragrance, Fancy Jessica Simpson, was introduced in 2008 under arrangements with Parlux.

Jil Sander
German fashion designer known for her minimalist designs. The Jil Sander house was acquired by Prada in 1999; Sander no longer designs for the company.

Fragrances are created under arrangements with Coty. The first fragrance, Women Pure, debuted in 1979. It has been followed by some 20+ fragrances, many of them better known in Germany than in the United States.

Recent releases include Sun Delight (2006), Jil Sander Style (2006), Jil Sander Sport Fitness (2007), Jil Sander Man (2007), Stylessence (2007), Scent 79 Man & Woman (2007), Sport Water & Sun Men Fresh (2008), Style Summer (2008), Style Pastels Blush Pink, Tender Green, Soft Yellow (2008), Man Absolute (2008).

John Galliano
Fashion designer who launched his own label in the UK in the 1980s. Galliano initially found critical but not commercial success. He moved to Paris in 1990, and in 1995 was named Creative Director at Givenchy, becoming the first British designer to head a major French couture house. In 1996, he moved to Christian Dior, and while the move was met with some skepticism at the time, he is widely credited with revitalizing Dior both commercially and artistically. Galliano is known for his own flamboyant, sometimes outlandish style, and for the creative daring of his couture shows at Dior. He currently designs for Dior and for his own label.

Fragrances under the John Galliano brand were introduced in 2008 with John Galliano.

John Varvatos
American menswear designer who worked for Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein before launching his own line in 2000.

Fragrances were introduced in 2004 with John Varvatos for men. Vintage followed in 2006. The fragrances are produced under arrangements with Zirh.

Recent releases include John Varvatos For Women (2008).

Jo Malone
Jo Malone came to the fragrance business in a rather roundabout way. She was working out of her apartment as a facialist, and after a session, she would present her client with a bottle of her homemade nutmeg & ginger bath oil. Her customers loved the scent, one thing led to another, and in 1994, she opened her first boutique in London.

The firm was acquired by Estee Lauder in 1999, but Malone stayed on as Creative Director. In 2006, she announced that she would be leaving to pursue other goals.

See reviews for Vintage Gardenia (2004), Black Vetyver Cafe and Orange Blossom. Recent releases include Pomegranate Noir (2005), Nectarine Blossom & Honey (2005), Blue Agava & Cacao (2006), White Jasmine & Mint (2007), Kohdo Wood Collection: Lotus Blossom & Water Lily, Dark Amber & Ginger Lily (2008), White Tie and Tiara (relaunch of a 2002 scent, 2008), Sweet Lime & Cedar (2008).

Where to buy: at Neiman Marcus or Saks, or directly from Jo Malone (see link below).

German fashion house of designer and artist Wolfgang Joop. Joop sold the house in the early 2000s and no longer designs for the company that bears his name.

Fragrances include Joop! Femme (1987), All About Eve (1996), Jump (2005).

Recent releases include Joop! Go (2007), Joop! Jump Summer Temptation (2007), Joop! Homme Summer Temptation (2007), Joop! Hot Summer collection (2008), Wolfgang Joop (2008), Joop! Homme Chill Out (2008).

Joop's daughter, Jette, is also a designer, and has her own line of fragrances including Jette (2005), By Night Jette (2006), Jette Heartbeat Edition (2008), Dark Sapphire (2008).

Fragrances are produced under arrangements with Coty's Lancaster Group.

Jovan was founded by Bernard Mitchell and Barry Shipp in 1968. Their first perfume, Jovan Musk for women (1972), was a huge seller. The company was sold in 1979, and eventually ended up in the Coty stable.

Current fragrances include Musk for women, Musk for men, White Musk, Island Gardenia, and Sex Appeal for men.

Recent releases include White Silk (2008).

Jovoy Paris
French perfume house originally founded in 1923 by Blanche Arvoy; Jovoy continued to release new fragrances through 1961. The French company Parfetique resurrected the house in 2006 with the debut of Les 7 Parfums Capitaux.

Recent releases include Terra Incognita (2008).

Juicy Couture
Popular American line of casual clothes established in 1996 by Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Taylor. Their first fragrance, Juicy Couture, launched in 2006. Juicy Crittoure, a line for dogs, launched in 2007.

Recent releases include Dirty English for men (2008), Viva La Juicy (2008).

Where to buy: department stores.

Juliette Has A Gun
Niche perfume house established in 2006 by Romano Ricci, grandson of Nina Ricci. Two perfumes were launched in 2006, both based on rose and both inspired by Shakespearean heroines: Lady Vengeance and Miss Charming.

Recent releases include Citizen Queen (2008).

Where to buy: in the US at apothia, beautyhabit or luckyscent, and at Henri Bendels in NYC; in France at colette.

Juozas Statkevicius (aka Josef Statkus)
Lithuanian-born designer now based in Paris. He has been designing fashions and theatre costumes since the 1990s, but first came to international attention after showing a collection in Paris in 2002. His first perfume, titled simply Juozas Statkevicius Eau de Parfum, launched in 2004.

Where to buy: beautyhabit, luckyscent in the US; first-in-fragrance in Germany.