Saturday, November 11, 2006

Perfume houses P

Line established in 1995 by Brook Harvey-Taylor and Billy Taylor, and featuring scented soaps and candles. See review for Nile Lily candle.

In 2007, Pacifica introduced a line of personal fragrances with Tahitian Gardenia, Nerola Orange Blossom, Waikiki Pikake & Vanilla Vera Cruz and Mediterranean Fig. Mountain Temple, Sandalwood, Tuscan Blood Orange and Spanish Amber followed later that same year.

Recent releases include Thai Lemongrass, French Lilac, Malibu Lemon Blossom, Bali Lime Papaya, Hawaiian Ruby Guava & Brazilian Mango Grapefruit (2008), Avalon Juniper, Tibetan Mountain Temple, Spanish Amber, Mexican Cocoa & Madagascar Spice (solids, 2008).

Where to buy: from the website, or at Whole Foods, blossomlounge, sanctuarydayspa, sativastuff.

Paco Rabanne
Fashion design house of Paco Rabanne, who was born in Spain and came to France during the Spanish Civil War. His first fashion collection, featuring futuristic designs made of plastic and metal, appeared in 1966; Rabanne subsequently became well known for his chain mail mini dresses, disposable paper clothing and the like. Rosemary Rodriguez became Creative Director in 2000; Patrick Robinson took the helm in 2005 after the departure of Rodriguez.

Fragrance launches have included include Calandre (1969), Pour Homme (1973), XS (1993), XS Pour Elle (1994), Paco (1996), Energy (1998), Ultraviolet (1999) and Paco Rabanne Pour Elle (2003). The Paco Rabanne fashion and fragrance businesses are owned by Puig.

Recent releases include Ultraviolet Fluoressence (2005), Paco Rabanne Black XS for men (2005), Ultraviolet Colours of Summer (2006), Ultraviolet Summer Pop (2007), Black XS For Her (2007), Ultrared (2008), 1 Million (2008).

Where to buy: department stores and online fragrance discounters.

French line of reasonably priced perfumes. Panouge also holds the license for perfume created under the Masaki Matsushima and Hiroko Koshino lines, and distributes the reformulated 1924 scent Isabey Gardenia.

Parfum d'Empire
French niche line established by Marc Antoine Corticchiato in 2003. The fragrances are inspired by historical empires of the world, and include Eau Sauve (inspired by Empress Josephine), Eau de Gloire (inspired by Napoleon Bonaparte) and Ambre Russe (inspired by the Russian Empire under the Tsars). Iskander (inspired by Alexander the Great) and Cuir Ottoman (the Ottoman empire), launched in 2006.

Recent releases include Osmanthus Interdite, Equistrius & Fougere Bengale (2007), Aziyadé & Yuzu Fou (2008).

Where to buy: aedes, beautyhabit, luckyscent, your-cosmetics. In Germany, try first-in-fragrance.

Parfumerie Generale
Niche perfume line established by Pierre Guillaume, who began his career as a chemist working on the design of specialty products for cosmetics. See reviews of No. 4, Musc Maori; No. 6, L'Eau Rare Matale, No. 7, Cologne Grand Siecle, No. 10 Aomassai and No. 14, Iris Taizo.

Recent releases include Yuzu Ab Irato (2006), Bois de Copaiba, Querelle, Tubereuse Couture, Corps et Ames and Cedre Sandaraque (2006), Bois Blond, L'Ombre Fauve & Ether de Lilas Blanc Sur Feuillage Tendre (limited editions, 2007), Un Crime Exotique & Cadjmere (2007), Psychotrope, Cuir d'Iris, L'Oiseau de Nuit (2007), No. 19 Louanges Profanes (2008), L'Eau Guerrière (2008).

Where to buy: in the US, at luckyscent, in Canada at theperfumeshoppe, in London at lessenteurs, elsewhere directly through the Parfumerie Generale website (see below).

Parfums 06130
Niche fragrance line founded by Nicolas Chabert, who was raised in Grasse by a family of perfumers and designers. The company is named for Grasse's postal code. Fragrances include Yuzu Rouge (2003), Cédre (2003) and Lys (2006).

Recent releases include Feuille de Reglisse, Lentisque & Lierre Rose (2007).

Where to buy: aedes, fourseasons, luckyscent.

Parfums D'Armando Martinez
Indie perfumes from Armando Martinez, established in 2007 with four scents: Satyr, Benefactor, Pillow of Flowers, and Maquillage. Kitsune followed later in 2007.

Parfums DelRae
Niche perfume line launched in 2000 after several years of collaboration between DelRae Roth, a graphic designer located in San Francisco, and perfumer Michel Roudnitska, son of Edmond Roudnitska. They started with a trio of perfumes: Amoureuse, Eau Illuminée, and Bois de Paradis; Début followed in 2004.

Where to buy: at aedes, beautyhabit, luckyscent or first-in-fragrance (Germany).

Parfums de Nicolaï
Patricia de Nicolaï is the grand-daughter of Pierre Guerlain, the founder of Guerlain. She trained under Jean-Paul Guerlain, and later worked at two large fragrance companies, Firmenich and Quest. She established her own fragrance line, Parfums de Nicolaï, in 1989, and it has remained a family owned company.

Recent releases include Cococabana (2006), Eau de Cologne Cedrat (2006), Maharanih (2007), Les Magnifiques (2008), Eau Turquoise (2008).

Where to buy: in Europe the fragrances can be found at first-in-fragrance or directly through the Nicolai website in the United States, the line is carried by beautyhabit, luckyscent and newlondonpharmacy.

Parfums d'Imperfiction
Indie perfume house of Konstantin Mihov, a psychology student in Germany and a regular on the Perfume of Life forum. As the name implies, the scents are inspired by fictional works. His debut fragrance, Alice in Wonderland, launched in 2007. Eleven Minutes & O Alquimista will also launch in 2007.

Where to buy: in Germany at first-in-fragrance.

Parfums d'Orsay
Count Alfred d’Orsay (1801-1852) was a French-born dandy, said to be the "most fashionable man in the most fashionable circles in the most fashionable town in the world: London" (Last of the Dandies: The Scandalous Life and Escapades of Count d'Orsay, by Nick Foulkes). He dabbled in perfumery, and reputedly created a fragrance called "Eau de Bouquet".

The Parfums d’Orsay line was established after his death and named in his honor. Various sources report the founding year as 1865, 1908 and even 1933; 1908 appears to be the most likely. Count D'Orsay's original "Eau de Bouquet" was reportedly "reworked" into the line's Etiquette Bleue fragrance. I do not know the detailed history of the line, but they were issuing new fragrances into the the 20th century, and the line was "revived" in 1995.

Where to buy: Try beautycafe, or a google search may turn up bottles at one or more of the fragrance discounters.

Parfums MDCI
French high end niche line. Five fragrances launched in 2006.

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent.

Parfums M Micallef
French niche line established by Martine Micallef and Geoffrey Newman in 1997.

Recent releases include Avant-Garde (2006), Red Sea (2006), Note Vanillee (2007), Note Poudree (2007), Note Ambree (2007), Yellow Sea & Royal Muská (2008), Shanti (2008).

Where to buy: fourseasonsproducts or luckyscent in the US, first-in-fragrance in Germany, fortnumandmason in the UK.

Parfums Morgan
The perfume line of French clothing label Morgan, established in 1967 as a "cheap chic" line for teens.

Fragrances were introduced in 2003 with Morgan de Toi scents for men & women. Subsequent launches include Light My Heart (2004), Love Love de Toi (2005), Love Love de Toi Glossy (2006), Morgan Sweet Paradise (2007), Love Love de Toi Glamstar (2007), My Morgan (2008).

Paris Hilton
American socialite, singer and actress. Her first fragrance, Paris Hilton for women, launched in 2004. A version for men followed shortly thereafter. Just Me for women and Just Me for men followed in 2005; Heiress for women and Heir for men in 2006. Fragrances are created under arrangements with Parlux.

Recent releases include Can Can (2007).

Where to buy: at sephora, selected department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Pascal Morabito
French jeweler and designer with several fragrances, including Or Noir, Or Black, Nagada and Passion Mediterranee.

French line of organic skincare and fragrances founded in 2004 by Philippe Gounel and Luc Jugla. There are currently six scents: Chypre, Boise, Ambre, Fougere, Floral and Hesperide.

Where to buy: at newlondonpharmacy or Henri Bendel. Patyka plans to open a boutique in New York City in summer 2008.

Paul & Joe
Fashion designer Sophie Albou established Paul & Joe, named after her two sons, in 1995. Two fragrances were launched in 2003: Blanc and Bleu.

Paul Smith
British fashion designer who started with a small shop in 1970 specializing in menswear. He showed his first collection in Paris in 1976; womens designs were added in the 1990s. By 2000, Paul Smith was Britain's largest designer label. The line has a huge following in Japan (200+ stores), although he is still somewhat less well known in the US.

Fragrances were introduced in 2000 with Paul Smith Original, followed by Extreme (2002), Paul Smith London (2004) and Paul Smith Floral for women (2005).

Recent releases include Paul Smith Story for men (2006), Paul Smith Rose (2007), Sunshine Edition (2008).

Where to buy: at department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Small, family-owned fragrance house based in Brighton, England. See reviews for Classic Chypre & Green Chypre, Fresh Citrus & White Floral.

British toiletries firm established in the late 1860s by William Henry Penhaligon. The first fragrance, Hammam Bouquet, launched in 1872. Other well known scents include Blenheim Bouquet, created for the Duke of Marlborough. More recent introductions include Bluebell (1978), Quercus (1996), Castile (1999), Artemisia (2002), and Lily & Spice (2006). See reviews for Lavandula, Violetta Talcum Powder.

Where to buy: Online, try aedes, fourseasons or order directly from the website (see below).

Perry Ellis
American sportswear designer who established his own line in 1978. Ellis died in 1986. Marc Jacobs was the designer from 1988 until 1993, but left shortly after his infamous "grunge" collection. The women's sportswear line was eventually dropped, and the line is now best known for its menswear.

Fragrances debuted in 1985 with Perry Ellis for Women and Perry Ellis for men. Later scents include 360 for women (1993), 360 for men (1995), America (women & men, 1996), Perry Ellis for Men (2008).

Phat Farm
Men's fashion line established by hip hop mogul Russell Simmons in 1992 and known as a "leader in the urbanwear market". Phat Farm, and its sister company Baby Phat, were sold to Kellwood Corp. in 2004.

Fragrances (produced under arrangements with Coty) were introduced in 2006 with Phat Farm Atman.

Arizona-based line of skin, bath and fragrance items founded by Cristina Carlino and David Watson. Well known scents include Amazing Grace and Falling in Love.

Recent releases include Philosophy The Fragrance (2006), Inner Grace (2007), The Alchemist (2007).

Where to buy: sephora or nordstrom.

Pierre Cardin
French fashion designer. He joined Christian Dior in 1946, then left to start his own fashion house in 1949. He was known for his bold geometric designs, which are often described as ignoring the female form. Cardin was the first haute couture designer to open a ready-to-wear boutique and to put his clothing line in department stores, and also the first to license his name to a wide variety of lifestyle goods.

His first fragrance, Pierre Cardin Pour Monsieur, launched in 1972. Other fragrances include Rose Cardin (1990), Enigme (1993), Insatiable (1995), Revelation (2004).

Recent fragrance releases include Emotion for women (2005), Emotion for men (2006), Revelation Energy (2007), Pierre Cardin Pour Homme & Pierre Cardin Pour Femme (2007), Pierre Cardin Pour Homme Winter Edition & Pour Femme Winter Edition (2008).

The Pierre Cardin fragrance license is currently held by Coty.

Pilar & Lucy
Los Angeles-based line of fragrances. Currently three offerings: To Twirl All Girly, The Exact Friction of Stars and Tiptoeing Through Chambers of the Moon.

Where to buy: lacremebeauty, luckyscent.

Potter & Moore
UK-based toiletries line founded in 1749. The company has since changed hands several times, I am not sure who owns it at the moment.

Where to buy: beautyhabit or shoplondons in the US, or at lessenteurs in the UK.

Leather goods company founded in 1913 by Mario Prada; Prada is currently a fashion house and luxury conglomerate headed by his granddaugher, Miuccia Prada. The first ready-to-wear designs appeared in 1989, the less expensive Miu Miu line launched in 1992.

A set of "exclusive artisan" fragrances were introduced in 2003 with Iris, Fleur d'Oranger, Cuir Ambre and Oeillet. In 2007, three more fragrances were added to this series: Narciso, Tubereuse and Violette; in 2008, Prada added Opoponax, Benjoin and Myrrhe. The Prada Exclusives (see brief descriptions here) are sold at Prada boutiques and selected department stores, including Liberty of London.

The first widescale offering was Prada Eau de Parfum, which launched in 2004. It was followed by Prada Intense (2005), Prada Eau Tendre (2006), Prada Man (2006).

Recent releases include Prada Infusion d'Iris (2007), Infusion d'Homme (2008).

Fragrances are produced under arrangements with Puig.

Where to buy: department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Cosmetics and skincare company founded as a division of Estee Lauder in 1979. The first Prescriptives fragrance, Calyx, was introduced in 1986, and is still on the market (subsequent launches have all been discontinued).

Where to buy: at Prescriptives counters and online fragrance discounters.

Prince Matchabelli
Perfume house established by Russian Prince Georges Matchabelli and his wife, Princess Norina Matchabelli, and probably best known for Wind Song (1952). The house was sold in 1936 and has since had several owners; it is currently held by Parfums de Coeur, a manufacturer of designer fragrance dupes.

Where to buy: chain discount stores and drugstores.

Profumi del Forte
Niche line from Italy. Initial offerings included four fragrances: Marconi 3, Roma Imperiale, Tirrenico and Vittoria Apuana.

Recent releases include Forte + Forte (2008).

Where to buy: in Germany at first-in-fragrance.

Profumi di Pantelleria
Italian niche line from the island of Pantelleria. The first fragrance, Il Profumo di Pantelleria, launched in 1998, and was followed by Dammuso, Nica, Aire, among others.

Recent releases include Maestrale (2006), Tanit (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent or Takashimaya in NYC.

Italian niche line established in 1996 by the grandchildren of Celestino and Lucia Durante, who had established a chain of stores featuring hand-made soaps, fragrances and the like. Today the Profumum line produces 15+ fragrances, has several boutiques in Rome and is sold in selected stores across Italy.

Recent releases include Volo AZ 686 & Alba (2007), Olibanum & Acqua Viva (2007), Dambrosia (2008).

Where to buy: at luckyscent.

Provence Sante
French line of bath, body and fragrance items.

Where to buy: beautyhabit or your-cosmetics.

German athletic-wear manufacturer established in 1924. Fragrances include Puma Woman & Puma Man (2002), Puma Flowing (2003), Puma Jamaica (2004), Puma Red & White, Puma Create (2006).

Recent releases include Puma Aqua (2007), I'm Going (2007), Jamaica2 (2008), Free Flowing Woman & Free Flowing Man (2008).

Puma fragrances are produced under arrangements with Procter & Gamble.

Italian color cosmetics line. Fragrances were introduced in 1991 with Fiorilu.

Pupa Flower in Red will launch in 2007.