Sunday, November 5, 2006

Perfume houses S

Saffron James
Niche line established in 2007 by Katherine Growney, and inspired by the scents of her childhood in Hawaii.

The line debuted with Le'a, 'Ume & Pūnono (2007).

Where to buy: Studio Fred Segal.

Sage Machado
The fragrance line of Los Angeles-based jeweler Sage Machado, who launched her first boutique in 1998. The scents are named after gemstones, and include Garnet, Sage, Pearl. Most are available in perfume oil or Eau de Toilette; candles and body products are also available.

Recent releases include Moonstone and Coral (2006).

Where to buy: beautyhabit, lacremebeauty, luckyscent, your-cosmetics.

Salvador Dali
Spanish artist (1904-1989) best known for his surrealist paintings.

The first fragrance was Salvador Dali (1983). It was followed by, among others, Salvador Dali Pour Homme (1986), Laguna (1991), Dalimix (1996), Daliflor (1999), Rubylips (2004) and Eau de Rubylips (2005).

Recent introductions include Sea and Sun in Cadaques (2006), Purplelips (2006), Purplelight (2007), Black Sun (2007), Purplelips Sensual (2007), Little Kiss (2008), It is Love (2008).

The fragrance license for Salvador Dali is held by Cofinluxe.

Where to buy: at salvadordalimuseum, strawberrynet, and online fragrance discounters.

Salvatore Ferragamo
Salvatore Ferragamo (d. 1960) was an Italian shoe designer who started out creating footwear for the Hollywood film industry. In 1927 he returned to Italy and set up his own brand. The firm, now a luxury goods house with a clothing line, is still family-run.

Fragrances were introduced in 1998 with Ferragamo Pour Femme. Subsequent releases include Ferragamo Pour Homme (1999), Incanto (2003), Incanto Pour Homme (2004).

Recent releases include Incanto Dream (2005), Incanto Charms (2005), F by Ferragamo (2006), Incanto Shine (2007), F by Ferragamo Pour Homme (2007), F for Fascinating & Incanto Heaven (2008), Tuscan Soul (2008).

Ferragamo also controls the Emanuel Ungaro fashion & fragrance businesses.

Where to buy: department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Santa Maria Novella
The Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. The store in Florence, Italy opened to the public in 1612, but the fragrances and body products are based on recipes that the Dominican friars of Florence had been developing (using herbs from the monastery gardens) since the 13th century. It was held by the Dominicans until the late 19th century when it became a private business. Today they market a wide range of fragrances, bath and body products, and home fragrances.
Recent fragrance releases include Citta di Kyoto (2005), Angels of Florence (2006), Toscano (2007).

Where to buy: aedes, eluxury or lafcony in the US; senteursdailleurs in Brussels.

Sarah Jessica Parker
American actress best known for her role in HBO's Sex and the City. Her first fragrance, Lovely, was introduced in 2005 under arrangements with Coty. Lovely Liquid Satin, an alcohol-free version, debuted in 2006, Lovely Summer Mist followed in 2007.

Recent releases include Sarah Jessica Parker Covet (2007), Covet Pure Bloom (2008).

Where to buy: department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Paris-based jewelry line launched by ethnologist Sandrine Dulon in the late 1980s.

Their debut fragrance release was Padparadscha.

Recent fragrances include A La Figue!, Ipanema, Corrida, 40 a l'Ombre (2007).

Where to buy: at beautyhabit or luckyscent in the US.

Scent by Alexis
New York-based line of perfumes by Alexis Karl.

Recent releases include Courtesan, Femme Fatale (both 2006), Black Magick, White Magick, Blue Angel, Pretty Things (2007).

Where to buy: lacremebeauty or Henri Bendel.

Scents of Time
Niche line established by David Pybus. As of early 2008, three fragrances: Pyxis, Ankh and Nenúfar.

Scent Systems
UK-based line of all natural perfumes. Debuted in 2007 with five scents: Jasmine, Rose, Wild Violet, Tuberose and Oeillet.

Where to buy: at John Rocha in London or from Scent Systems (see website below).

Sean John Fragrances
The fragrance line of hip hop musician/record producer/actor Sean John Combs (aka Puff Daddy, P Diddy, or most recently, Diddy). His clothing line, Sean John, was introduced in 1998; the first fragrance, Unforgivable for men, followed in 2005.

Recent releases include Unforgivable Multi Platinum Edition (2007), Unforgivable Woman (2007), Unforgivable Black & Unforgivable Woman Black (2008), I Am King (2008).

The Sean John fragrances are created under licensing arrangements with Estee Lauder.

Where to buy: department stores or online fragrance discounters.

Septimanie Perfumes
Niche line from Philadelphia-based garden designer Jeanne Weber.

The line debuted with Pavillon des Fleurs (2008).

Where to buy: aedes, or Takashimaya in New York City.

Serendipity 3
New York City restaurant known for their "Frozen Hot Chocolate". One cocoa-based fragrance, Serendipitous.

Where to buy: beautyhabit, beautyofasite, cosmeticmall, lacremebeauty, luckyscent.

Serge Lutens
Niche perfume line with an extraordinarily devoted cult following.

Serge Lutens was born in Lille in 1942. In the early 1960s, he went to Paris and started working as a makeup artist and creative stylist; in the late 1960s he was responsible for establishing the cosmetics line for Christian Dior. He became the creative director at Shiseido in 1980, and released his first perfume for Shiseido in 1981: the now legendary Nombre Noir.

The Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, described by Lutens as "more of a refined salon for perfumes than a boutique", opened in Paris in 1992, shortly after the release of Shiseido Féminité du Bois. Subsequent releases appear under the name Serge Lutens instead of Shiseido. In the late 1990s, Lutens stopped working on makeup entirely in order to devote his time to perfumery, although in 2005 he launched a color cosmetics line under his own name.

There are two Serge Lutens lines: the export line (50 ml rectangular bottle, which you can buy all over the world) and the exclusive line (75 ml bell jar bottle, which you can only buy in the Paris boutique OR which the Paris boutique will ship to you if you live in Europe). If you live in the United States and you want an exclusive scent, your choices are pretty much ebay, or find a nice friend in Europe to order it for you. The website Serge Lutens ~ Nearly All The Facts explains the intricacies of getting your hands on the fragrance you want, and also lists notes for all the scents. Also note that every year, one fragrance from the exclusive collection is added to the export line for a limited time. Recent limited releases were Un Lys (2004), Chergui (2005), Fumerie Turque (2006), Chene (2007), Borneo 1834 (reportedly to be the export for 2008).

In 2007, Serge Lutens was named Commandeur dans l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres by the French Ministry of Culture.
Recent releases include Borneo 1834 (2005), Cedre (2005), Miel de Bois (2005), Gris Clair (2006), Chypre Rouge (2006), Mandarine Mandarin (2006), Rousse (2007), Louve (2007), Sarrasins (2007), Five O'Clock Au Gingembre (2008), El Attarine (2008), Serge Noire (2008).

Where to buy: the export line can be purchased in the United States at aedes, apothia, lacremebeauty, luckyscent or at Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, selected Neiman Marcus stores. In Canada, try theperfumeshoppe. In the UK, try lessenteurs.

Sharon Bolton
Indie house based in Santa Barbara, CA, and makers of Soul, Luv and Truth.

Recent releases include Dream (2007).

Japanese skincare, cosmetics & fragrance company which began in 1872 as the Shiseido Pharmacy.

Under the creative direction of Serge Lutens (see above), Shiseido introduced Nombre Noir (1981) and Feminite du Bois (1992). Other early scents include Zen (1964, reformulated 2000) and Basara (1993).

Many Shiseido fragrances are released in Asia only; in the United States, there are currently three fragrances: Zen, Shiseido Relaxing (1997) and Shiseido Energizing (1999).

Recent releases include Zen (new version, 2007).

Where to buy: at department stores and online fragrance discounters.

French high-end skincare & cosmetics company founded by Count Hubert d'Ornano in 1976. The first fragrance, Eau de Campagne, was launched in 1974. Eau de Soir followed in 1990; Soir de Lune in 2006.

Where to buy: at Neiman Marcus or Saks, or check the online fragrance discounters.

Slatkin & Co
Upscale line of home and personal fragrances founded by Harry Slatkin. In 2005, the company was acquired by Limited Brands/Bath and Body Works. Slatkin is especially known for the line of home fragrances fronted by Elton John.

Three Eaux de Parfum (Persian Lime & Mimosa, Black Fig & Absinthe and White Jasmine & Muguet) were introduced in 2003; Orange Flower & Citron followed in 2006. As of 2008, Harry Slatkin's own line is discontinued; he is still creating Slatkin products for the Bath & Body Works label.

Brand owned by the Arthes Group. One fragrance, Smiley, was introduced in 2006.

Where to buy: in the US at Henri Bendel in New York or beautyhabit, miomia; in France at Colette.

UK-based perfume company established in 1994 and specializing in mass market scents for teens. Fragrances include So...? Wild, So...? Kiss Me, and So...? Sinful.

Where to buy: Target, Walmart, Kohls.

Social Creatures
UK-based niche artisanal line founded by Russell Newell in 2007. Fragrances are made in small batches, of mostly natural materials (95-99% natural).

The line was introduced with Rebel Ambush, Utopian and Frankfurt Kitchen (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at miomia.

Solange Azagury-Partridge
UK-based jewelry designer and former Creative Director at Boucheron. She founded her own business in 1990.

Her debut fragrance, Stoned, launched in 2006.

Recent releases include Cosmic (2007).

Where to buy: in the US at beautyhabit, luckyscent or spacenk, in France at Colette.

Sonia Rykiel
French fashion designer who got her start with maternity wear and later became best known for her knits (she has been called "the queen of knits"). Her first runway show was in 1968; the business is still family owned.

Fragrances were introduced in 1979 with Septieme Sens. Recent releases include Belle en Rykiel (2006), Rykiel Woman Hot! (2007), Belle en Rykiel Eau de Toilette (2008).

Sonoma Scent Studio
Small independent perfumery established by Laurie Erickson in Sonoma, California in 2004. Erickson creates custom perfumes as well as a ready-made line.

Recent releases include Encens Tranquille, Lieu de Reves (2007), Champagne de Bois, Rose Musc, Cameo & Jour Ensoleille (2007), Ambre Noir (2007), Velvet Rose (2007), Voile de Violette (2007), Wood Violet & Vintage Rose (2008), Sienna Musk & Winter Woods (2008).

Space NK
UK-based apothecary chain with their own store line of fragrances. Space NK opened its first US location in 2007 (see a report on the Space NK in Soho). See review for Soulful Bathtime Minis.

Recent releases include Melodrama, Compelling & Expression (2005), Space NK Blue (2005), Seduction & Passion (2006).

New York-based indie perfume company established by artist Sacre Nobi. Fragrances, all made in collaboration with well-known perfumers, include 100% Love, S-ex, Lust, Sloth and S-Perfume.

S.T. Dupont
Founded by Simon Tissot-Dupont in 1872 as a leather goods company; later, they became known for their cigarette lighters, later still, they diversified into other luxury goods including pens and watches. Fragrances were introduced in 1998 with Femme and Homme.

Recent fragrance releases include Dupont Noir Pour Homme (2006), Dupont Blanc for women (2006),

Stella Cadente
French fashion label established by Ukrainian-born designer Stanislassia Klein in the early 1990s.

Fragrances were introduced in 2005 with Miss Me.

Recent releases include Acqua Stella Cadente (2007), Miss Me Discrete? (2007).

Fragrances are produced under arrangements with Clarins.

Where to buy: in the US at department stores and online fragrance discounters.

Stella McCartney
Fashion design house of Stella McCartney, the daughter of ex-Beatle Paul McCartney. She launched her eponymous line in 2001 after a stint as a designer for Chloe. As of early 2008, the Stella McCartney fragrance license was held by L'Oreal.

Her first fragrance, Stella, launched in 2003, and was followed by Stella Sheer (2004), Stella Rose Absolute (2005) and Stella in Two (2006).

Recent releases include Stella Sheer 2007, Stella Sheer 2008.

Where to buy: department stores or online fragrance discounters.

Website: Stella McCartney

Stephanie de Saint-Aignan
The eponymous house of Stephanie de Saint-Aignan, a perfumer who studied at ISIPCA before launching her own line.

Her 2007 Collection included 7 fragrances: Berberiades, Le Pot Aus Roses, Amande Honorable, Un The Au Sahara, Voleur de Ciels, Tobacco Mucho and Embruns d'Ambre. There are plans to launch a new collection each year, after which the old fragrances are discontinued. If you purchase a bottle, you get a coupon allowing you to replenish your stock even after that scent is no longer publicly sold.

Recent releases include L'Eau Nirique, Blanc d'Hiver, Li Altarelli & Berberiades Extreme (2008), Royal Palm (2008).

Where to buy: in the US at luckyscent.

The Stetson company was established in the 1860s and became known for their iconic cowboy hats. The fragrances, produced under arrangements with Coty, debuted in 1981 with Stetson Cologne. Other fragrances include Lady Stetson (1986), Stetson Sierra (1993), Stetson Untamed (2003), Stetson Black (2005) and Shania by Stetson (2005, fronted by country music star Shania Twain).

Recent releases include Shania Starlight (2007), Stetson Fresh (2008), Stetson Rich Suede (2008).

Where to buy: drugstores and mass-market discounters (Walmart, Target).

American cosmetics company founded by Jeanine Lobell. Fragrances were introduced in 2002 with Creme Bouquet and Jade Blossom. Recent introductions include Midnight Bloom (2005), Mandarin Mist (2007).

St John
Ready-to-wear knitwear and accessories. Their first two fragrances, St John (1994) and White Camellia (1998) are now discontinued.

Fragrances were re-introduced in 2008 with St. John Signature.

Strange Invisible Perfumes
Niche line of all natural perfumes established by Alexandra Balahoutis in 2000. See reviews for Lady Day, Heroine, Black Rosette & L'Invisible.

Recent releases include Moon Garden, Prima Ballerina and Magazine Street (all 2006), Tropical Vial (2007), Musc Botanique (2008).

Where to buy: at beautyhabit, selected Barneys stores or directly from Strange Invisible Perfumes (see site below).

Susanne Lang (and Sula)
Canada-based niche perfume line. There are two ranges: Couture (custom blends) and Layers, a line of ready-made fragrances that can be worn alone or, obviously, layered. Layers includes the Vanilla Collection (nine vanilla-based scents). See review for Cashmere Dry Oil.

The Sula brand is Susanne Lang's lower priced alternative to the Layers collection; it includes Vanilla Blossom, Stiletto Musk, Sun-Kissed Citrus, Butterfly Kiss, Lily Lotus and Champagne Sugar. The Sula line can be found at b-glowing, ulta, abeautifullife, or at beautymark in Canada.

Susanne Lang also creates custom fragrances for other brands; see Augustina Avondale, Roxborough & Woodlawn.

Recent releases include the Couture Blend Kit (2007).

Where to buy: lacremebeauty, luckyscent and selected Saks in the US; theperfumeshoppe in Canada.